Throttle Cable Assy Install

[one2dmax]

Two schools of thought on that. Some say you should certainly do so and I would agree if you live in a relatively dust free environment (no dirt roads nearby). Where I am at the lube becomes gummy and hinders the cables more then a dry cable does.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

Two schools of thought on that. Some say you should certainly do so and I would agree if you live in a relatively dust free environment (no dirt roads nearby). Where I am at the lube becomes gummy and hinders the cables more then a dry cable does.

I am a fan of dry graphite for cable lube. What are your thoughts on that. Only bike I ever consistently had to do that with was my Virago. Speedo cable and clutch cable cause I liked breaking those every 30K or so.

 

[maleko89]

I do, helps them last IMO.

Mark

 

[user 16333]

Two schools of thought on that. Some say you should certainly do so and I would agree if you live in a relatively dust free environment (no dirt roads nearby). Where I am at the lube becomes gummy and hinders the cables more then a dry cable does.

 

[Parminio]

Second on the dry graphite.

And don't be fooled. A little squirt will do. You probably wont even see it.

 

[user 16333]

Remove the seat (two bolts at the rear when you open up the flip)
Remove the key
Remove the bolt holding the cluster cover aluminum part
Remove the faux cover (2 bolts in the key mount, 2 bolts in the cluster, 2 bolts up front facing forwardish, 1 bolt each side at the rear sides)
Remove the scoops (3 bolts each)
Pop the CDI box loose
Remove the two bolts holding the battery top cover and let that be loose and moveable
Remove the upper airbox assembly/filter
Remove the lower airbox assembly (2 bolts by each stack which will stay trapped in place - also pull the air fitting assembly from the left rear)

That gets you where you can access the connectors for the speedo/tach cluster as well as the throttle cables.
You have to take off the entire headlight assembly, lower support, side supports to get to the crown and gauge cluster. It runs through the crown and has multiple wire connections.
The connection doesn't come off easily from the tach assembly so if you can splice and repair your wiring that would be a lot easier then swapping out the harness (I think I have a good used Harness if you want one). I actually haven't removed the harness from the old gauge and think it would require removal of each pin separately.

Probably missed some steps but that should give you the jist of what's going on.

I appreciate the help.
Less than 3 weeks, I had her back on the road..
Good to go....

 

[satriani]

Same here.

But I'd still shoot them with my 45 if I ever caught them.

man just like the old western days..i like the way you think, too bad here in canada the law helps the criminals and in most cases were the guilty ones....