Too Hot?

[COP RUNNER]

any auto mechanic will have a lazer thermometer ! Just pull into any repair garage & ask if they will read you radiator & hose temp's for you , if he's a blue collar working guy , he'll do it no problem ! Then tell us what the temps are , if there good , the gauge is off , if its hot _ radiator is clogged internaly & or water pump impeller failure ! Or something restickting the flow of the coolant , if you are losing coolant , you could have a bad head gasket , ( just starting ) & it will force a little compression into the cooling system , which is putting air into the cooling continuously , making it air locked ! But if its small enough , you will not feel it missing yet , but you would have bubbles in the cooling system that you could see with the radiator cap off ! Let us know !

 

[hubeerjw]

I remember a few threads about using a T-stat from NAPA.... I even think there are a few options on the temps when they open... I think they were pretty cheap... I thought less than $20, but I'm not exactly sure. It may be worth your time to do a few searches.

Jeff

UPDATE.....


Here is the link: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1841&highlight=thermostat+napa

It looks like it is under $10, and the part numbers are there as well. Good Luck

 

[gleno]

any auto mechanic will have a lazer thermometer ! Just pull into any repair garage & ask if they will read you radiator & hose temp's for you , if he's a blue collar working guy , he'll do it no problem ! Then tell us what the temps are , if there good , the gauge is off , if its hot _ radiator is clogged internaly & or water pump impeller failure ! Or something restickting the flow of the coolant , if you are losing coolant , you could have a bad head gasket , ( just starting ) & it will force a little compression into the cooling system , which is putting air into the cooling continuously , making it air locked ! But if its small enough , you will not feel it missing yet , but you would have bubbles in the cooling system that you could see with the radiator cap off ! Let us know !

Good post. If the Thermostatic Valve has been replaced and you have no change in the temp gauge reading these are the logical next steps.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Theres a guy on ebay out of Arizona that sells thermostates that kick on 20degress sooner than the stock ones. (cant remeber his name now) I installled one about 2 years ago and temp never even reaches 1/2 way
no matter how hard i ride or how hot it is out they cost about 60.00 delivered. And you might want to take offyour fill cap and let the bike run a while ( not the reserve cap) just to make sure you dont have a air traped in it.

I bought my 190 thermostat from my local autoparts (orielys) store for under 6 bucks. I am not sure the application I think it was for a Jeep 4cyl. My auto parts guy is the **** though. I brought in my VMAX thermo and took out a mic and measured it and went into the thermostat book (Yes he knows more than the pc) and went to the back and handed me a new 190 thermo, fit like a champ and my bike never gets over 195 in traffic. I also have a manual fan and water wetter. Also have heat up to 100+F here in TN.

 

[Redbone]

went into the thermostat book (Yes he knows more than the pc)

The Pc is not more or less knowledgable than "the book". In fact, both forms of information are only as accurate as their last revision/ update. The book is outdated as soon as it's commited to paper. I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think that most nationwide parts stores spend more time updating their pc parts databases than reprinting a whole catalog just because a few parts have changed.
It more depends on who is using which tool as to which one is more "knowledgeable", the book or the pc. I'm not saying that your guy doesn't know parts/ his inventory, or even his distribution system. While whoever is doing the searching is important, it's almost as important as having up-to-date information.

 

[tfisher65]

I believe the stock thermo fan switch is rated for 216 degrees. So anything consistanly over 220 would be abnormal.

 

[redriderok]

thanks for all the suggestions... I will see if I can get an accurate coolant temp reading before I look into the radiator further or even the water pump. I originally suspected the water pump, but after dropping $60 for a thermostat I can't imagine what yamaha wants for a water pump. Also after topping off the coolant reservoir I haven't noticed the level dropping, so I don't suspect any internal leaking.

 

[warbeast]

thanks for all the suggestions... I will see if I can get an accurate coolant temp reading before I look into the radiator further or even the water pump. I originally suspected the water pump, but after dropping $60 for a thermostat I can't imagine what yamaha wants for a water pump. Also after topping off the coolant reservoir I haven't noticed the level dropping, so I don't suspect any internal leaking.

Ronayers.com has some of the best prices on OEM stuff that I could find.
Here is a link to the microfiche for the entire bike.
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm.../YearID/41/Year/2000/ModelID/6119/Model/VMX12
I found that the Thermostat on their site was only $39 plus shipping and the entire water pump assembly is $168, which isn't too bad IMHO considering how much they cost for some of the newer vehicles no days.
If I remember right the impeller is only like $34 dollars too if that is all you need.

Thad

 

[Vee4DFW]

My '85 was running that hot when I first got it. I ran radiator flush through it, drained, took apart all the plumbing and cleaned it real good and filled it with a 30 coolant/60 h2o mix. Now it doesn't go past the halfway mark even in triple digit weather.

 

[lankeeyankee]

thanks for all the suggestions... I will see if I can get an accurate coolant temp reading before I look into the radiator further or even the water pump. I originally suspected the water pump, but after dropping $60 for a thermostat I can't imagine what yamaha wants for a water pump. Also after topping off the coolant reservoir I haven't noticed the level dropping, so I don't suspect any internal leaking.

I have a water pump in good condition off a 2003 Engine, 35.00+Shipping.

 

[QuarterHorse]

The Pc is not more or less knowledgable than "the book". In fact, both forms of information are only as accurate as their last revision/ update. The book is outdated as soon as it's commited to paper. I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think that most nationwide parts stores spend more time updating their pc parts databases than reprinting a whole catalog just because a few parts have changed.
It more depends on who is using which tool as to which one is more "knowledgeable", the book or the pc. I'm not saying that your guy doesn't know parts/ his inventory, or even his distribution system. While whoever is doing the searching is important, it's almost as important as having up-to-date information.

After managing auto parts stores, I can tell you there are more mistakes on the updates for our servers than printed in the books. I'm 26 years old, not one of the "old guys" that doesn't like the computer. That's just what I ran into running a NAPA and O'Reilly store and selling commercial for Advanced Auto.

You are correct though, a lot of it has to do with the Indian, not the arrow.

 

[COP RUNNER]

did this bike get fixed yet ?

 

[redriderok]

no, haven't rode it since replacing the thermostat.... contemplating replacing the water pump... really just want to sell the thing, but don't want to sell a lemon

 

[Thevmaxrider]

Did you ever check the position of the dump valve? If it is in the wrong position it can cause the bike to run hotter than normal. Trying to remember, but I do believe that the ball should be down at the bottom for run, on top for drain. Would want to confirm that though with a manual (that's why I keep one handy LOL).

PS: Anyone got a water pump elbow in decent shape they want to part with? Mine has shed all its paint and looks crappy when repainted, for the short time it seems to last.

 

[redriderok]

i don't have a manual and never did get a clear explanation on where the 'dump valve' is located

 

[redriderok]

here's a pic of a little plastic valve just above the oil filter, not sure if this is the dump valve or if it's in the right position. The knob reads "Drain Off & On Pour".

http://picasaweb.google.com/chadsprague/Vmax/photo#5233699106953511394

 

[maleko89]

Red, if you look on the housing you should see two holes...one at 12:00 and the other 180* around at 6:00. If you see a ball bearing in the top window it's in drain mode. 6:00 is normal running mode.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

Thanks Mark, I didn't have my stuff in front of me and my CRS kicked in so I couldn't remember which way it was supposed to be. Of course my Max is out in the parking lot and I could have just walked out to look.:eusa_dance:

 

[redriderok]

just checked the valve and the ball was at 06:00. Looks like either the water pump or radiator at this point. Maybe I'll remove the WP and inspect it. I"m just not that ambitious right now, plus I have another cycle.

 

[maleko89]

Did you ever check the position of the dump valve? If it is in the wrong position it can cause the bike to run hotter than normal. Trying to remember, but I do believe that the ball should be down at the bottom for run, on top for drain. Would want to confirm that though with a manual (that's why I keep one handy LOL).

PS: Anyone got a water pump elbow in decent shape they want to part with? Mine has shed all its paint and looks crappy when repainted, for the short time it seems to last.

Jim, if the valve was set to drain then that would just cause the coolant to flow through the radiator and the bypass hose thus bypassing the thermostat. It would just take longer for the coolant to get up to operating temp.