torque spec for the rear shaft.

[VsMaxx]

anyone know the torque spec for the big nut that hold the wheel on? i took my rear wheel off last night so i can change it at work today. when i put it back on, id rather not have it fall off mid-flight!

thanks guys

 

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Depends on what style axle and nut your running. The older style with the castellated nut and cotter pin is 85 ft lbs.

I don't know what the newer spec is. I'm thinking it is even higher, like 105 but don't quote me.

This is a topic that has been debated in many forums for many years. Lots of people believe either of those two specs are much too tight and cause excessive heat buildup in the rear end and come up with their own spec. Some guys go as low as 35 ft lbs. Some like the 50 ft lb range.

I've never heard of the wheel coming off even on the guys that only tighten it to 35 ft lbs FWIW.

Sorry for not giving a straight answer.

 

[dannymax]

anyone know the torque spec for the big nut that hold the wheel on? i took my rear wheel off last night so i can change it at work today. when i put it back on, id rather not have it fall off mid-flight!

thanks guys

Vsmaxx....the torque spec for your '99 is 108 ft lbs. That seems like a very high torque but yamaha must have had a good reason for setting it there. I have been torqueing at 50# but just changed to 80 until i get a wrench that will go to 108.....then I'm going back to factory spec.

Where in NY are you?

 

[gamorg02]

if ur asking the book, danny's right. if u want opinions, there are tons of 'em. i had been doing about 60-70 ft lbs as well and didn't notcie a difference either way.

 

[naughtyG]

Ya I'm using the book value too, and always torque my rear axle to about 80 ft/lbs on my '86.

 

[gamorg02]

yea. i know some guys noticed a difference in their decel wobble by not quite going to spec...

 

[naughtyG]

I've never had a decel wobble - mine was high speed only. BUT, I've notice that around 30-40mph, if I let go of the bars, then give them a lil' nudge, it will wobble quite quickly. Not sure if it's to do with the Shinko profile (it has that wiggly line in the middle) but it's never bothered me while riding as I usually hold on to the handle bars ;-)

 

[dannymax]

I've never had a decel wobble - mine was high speed only. BUT, I've notice that around 30-40mph, if I let go of the bars, then give them a lil' nudge, it will wobble quite quickly. Not sure if it's to do with the Shinko profile (it has that wiggly line in the middle) but it's never bothered me while riding as I usually hold on to the handle bars ;-)

I agree there G, while the Shinko prolly doesn't cause a wobble I believe it contributes to it. I just replaced a worn front Metz. Laser-tec with a new 110 Shinko. The Metzler was stable as a rock, the new Shinko....instant de-cel wobble!

I'm beginning to think the 108# of torque might be set to properly compress the bearings, seals, spacers, etc. in the rear wheel. No concrete evidence, just a thought....can anyone add to that?

 

[gamorg02]

I've never had a decel wobble - mine was high speed only. BUT, I've notice that around 30-40mph, if I let go of the bars, then give them a lil' nudge, it will wobble quite quickly. Not sure if it's to do with the Shinko profile (it has that wiggly line in the middle) but it's never bothered me while riding as I usually hold on to the handle bars ;-)

mine will wobble sometimes on their own, but usually need a push or a bump in the road and my hands off the bars. lower gears seem to make ti worse. but yea, could be the shinko's middle grove. never thought of that.

 

[COP RUNNER]

MY 2006 WAS 95 FT. LBS. FROM THE FACTORY , AS PER MY TORQUE WRENCH , WHEN I TOOK IT OFF & ITS 95 FT. LBS. NOW !unk:

 

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Mines "tight enuff" as per my arm says, LOL. I torque some things to spec, but not everything. The rear axle, and the steering bearing are 2 things that I do NOT torque to spec. I do it to where it "feels right" IMO.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

I torque Toxic's rear axle nut to 45# maximum and have never had an issue. One thing to remember is the pinch bolt on the brake side is a "fail safe" for the axle nut. Tightening to spec is overkill IMO.

 

[jedi-]

Never used a torque wrench ever on my Max. The axle assembly tightens the inner bearings and sleeves of the assembly, once it is tight , it won't make a scrap of difference of tightening the crap out of it, it can't.
It's not unlike tightening a bolt thru an inner race of a bearing, the outer bearing will still turn no matter how much you tighten the bolt.
I've read reports about how much torque has affected handling etc, but that's simply impossible, once the assembly is tight nothing can change.

 

[gamorg02]

why do we think then, if say even as low as 35 ft lbs will do, yamaha wants it cranked down to 100+ ft lbs?

 

[satariel666]

Never used a torque wrench ever on my Max. The axle assembly tightens the inner bearings and sleeves of the assembly, once it is tight , it won't make a scrap of difference of tightening the crap out of it, it can't.
It's not unlike tightening a bolt thru an inner race of a bearing, the outer bearing will still turn no matter how much you tighten the bolt.
I've read reports about how much torque has affected handling etc, but that's simply impossible, once the assembly is tight nothing can change.

+1.
Im also never using torque wrench on rear axle nut , either on front.


BTW
Do you still wanna my front rim? LOL :rofl_200:
She feels lonely and awaits you with broken heart :rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

 

[satariel666]

why do we think then, if say even as low as 35 ft lbs will do, yamaha wants it cranked down to 100+ ft lbs?

Of course it will do but nut may unscrew and you can lose it if its not tighten.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

why do we think then, if say even as low as 35 ft lbs will do, yamaha wants it cranked down to 100+ ft lbs?

Overkill on Yamaha's part. If you want to know if tightening your axle nut too much can have an effect, tighten to 100 Ft/lbs, ride the bike for a while, touch the pumpkin. Retighten to 40 ft/lbs and do the same thing. You will notice a HUGE difference in the temp of the pumpkin between the two. All that heat causes thermal breakdown of the gear oil and is wasted energy. The binding is not the wheel bearings, but is instead the pinching of the gear on the wheel to the pumpkin interface.

 

[jedi-]

why do we think then, if say even as low as 35 ft lbs will do, yamaha wants it cranked down to 100+ ft lbs?

I don't really know the logic behind Yamaha's thinking, but they do quote 2 different torque figures between the years even though the assemblies are essentially the same, so it seem they themselves are confused lol.

 

[gamorg02]

Overkill on Yamaha's part. If you want to know if tightening your axle nut too much can have an effect, tighten to 100 Ft/lbs, ride the bike for a while, touch the pumpkin. Retighten to 40 ft/lbs and do the same thing. You will notice a HUGE difference in the temp of the pumpkin between the two. All that heat causes thermal breakdown of the gear oil and is wasted energy. The binding is not the wheel bearings, but is instead the pinching of the gear on the wheel to the pumpkin interface.

when we were at the brownie run, we tried it. they all felt the same from what i could gather.

I don't really know the logic behind Yamaha's thinking, but they do quote 2 different torque figures between the years even though the assemblies are essentially the same, so it seem they themselves are confused lol.

i thought it was because the older style had a cotter pin to hold it where the new ones didn't so they watned a bit more on it just to make sure...

 

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ha ha ha. and the debate continues.