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Well-Known Member
I've got a couple craftsman click style ones. 3/8 and 1/2 drive. 3/8 drive goes down to 7nm. I don't remember what the 1/2 goes up to but between the two, they cover all my needs.
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Yeah, same here....2 Craftsman clickers, 3/8" drive, in. #'s & ft. #'s and a heavier HF 1/2" drive which, I think, goes up to 150 ft. #'s, for the rear axle nut. :deadhorse: :biglaugh:
4gasem
Well-Known Member
On important bolts like anything related to brakes or suspension, I ALWAYS torque them down to spec. I find that on a bike, it makes me feel A LOT safer. I also ALWAYS torque my lug nuts on my cages. I have NEVER had warped rotors like a lot of people I know do. Torque sticks DO NOT work and some shops just blast them on with an impact.
I have an inch pounds and a foot pounds that I bought at harbor freight. I should probably buy more accurate ones, but I'm cheap. lol
I have an inch pounds and a foot pounds that I bought at harbor freight. I should probably buy more accurate ones, but I'm cheap. lol
really think it matters? hell even if they're 5% off it shouldn't make a huge difference, what i think makes a bigger difference is that things are EQUAL. i'm talking about normal maintenance not necessarily engine work.
This is my feeling too, maybe off a little but they're all off THE SAME! Besides, how do you know the expensive snap-on or proto wrench is any more accurate:ummm:....maybe it is, maybe it isn't. :confused2:
Hell, I never even owned a torque wrench before I got my '99....well, a 'beam type' but I used that more for a breaker bar than anything else. :biglaugh:
4gasem
Well-Known Member
I have to believe there's a difference between a 50 dollar torque wrench and a 300+ dollar torque wrench. Yes
With my lugs on my cars, I don't care. It's all about getting them to be the same to keep the rotors from warping.
On a bike with swiss cheese made bolts, accuracy is more key. That being said, I've never had an issue with either bikes.
4gasem
Well-Known Member
My guess is that's not the only difference. I would imagine that they keep their accuracy better too. They are supposed to be calibrated every so often as well. Not sure that's possible with the HF one's.
Remember... I have the HF ones.
i follow, if i came off harsh before i didn't mean to!
VMAX NV
Well-Known Member
Just bought the 3/8" drive from HF and it doesn't click! The handle just moves a bit at torque but I like the big click of my 1/2" drive one.....don't know if it's broken or that's just the way it is...
nice thing about the more expensive ones is the features. got a snapon 3/8 drive that clicks then viberates and beeps till you release it so there is no possible way to miss it. Plus it is digital so you can make it read in metric or imperial, inches or foot.
doesn't make coffee though...
doesn't make coffee though...
Rollie
Well-Known Member
What do you torque the rear axle nut to ? I've heard the manual is wrong , too high , I think .
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I've heard to torque the rear axle as much as 120 ft/lbs and as low as 45 ft/lbs. Then there is the old axle with the cotter key and the newer style. I'm not sure what is right either Rollie, following is how I determined what I think is right for my setup, but I'm willing to take advice if I missed something.
I set mine at about 55 whereas I used to set it at about 100 but after some previous discussion on here I checked my pumpkin around the axle and it was hot, almost too hot to touch! I loosened it up a little and it was better but still too warm I thought. So I lowered it some more until I thought it was acceptable and still kept the axle tight. I was glad I had the cotter key for security because I didn't want the nut to come loose and cause problems. Also leave the pinch bolt loose until you have the axle tightened properly and then tighten the pinch bolt.
Rollie
Well-Known Member
45 jives with what Don Smith told me one time a while ago . I goosed it up a bit , just in case . I'm running about 50 if I remember correctly .
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