Tuning my VGAS and Dyna 3000 on my new VMAX

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Wow! Thats a cool idea! Is Gannon the fellas user ID who sells these? I will have to give him a shout. Whats the COPS setup cost?

As for the DYNA box, what level's are all you fellas who have and use one finding best to run on? I switched it to #1, but after reading the instruction manual PDF that was kindly thrown up here, I am thinking about running on #2. Jon @ UFO said he gets best results from #4 though...:ummm:

With stock carbs the best curve is 1 but with your setup with an accelerator pump a more aggressive curve might help overcome the sag you are talking about but I have zero experience with flatslides so its just a theory.. I also did the cops mod and got them through Gannon and if he can get the parts he's the guy to go to because the whole kit was plug & play and very professional and he's a hell of a good guy to boot... Just remember that if you do it to tighten the plug gap to .26-.28 he tells you that in the instructions but I missed that part LOL

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I have zero experince with Dyna box, but I was thinking about buying one. I'm an old time drag racer, and one the things we used to mess with all the time on "tune" days was trying advancing the timing and changing the advance (back in those days it involved different weights and different springs) At any rate we were going to have a big Vmax drag strip day and I was beside my self that I couldn't do anything to the timing to try to get a bit more out of WOT/high RPM performance In my searching for "real" numbers I could only find ONE that had dyno runs to show a difference. Most everyone else said they got the best performance with the #1 (stock Yamaha) curve. Makes me wonder what Sean or the other guys that do a lot of Drag racing use in their comp bikes.
 
With stock carbs the best curve is 1 but with your setup with an accelerator pump a more aggressive curve might help overcome the sag you are talking about but I have zero experience with flatslides so its just a theory.. I also did the cops mod and got them through Gannon and if he can get the parts he's the guy to go to because the whole kit was plug & play and very professional and he's a hell of a good guy to boot... Just remember that if you do it to tighten the plug gap to .26-.28 he tells you that in the instructions but I missed that part LOL

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What did the Cops setup run you srk468? Any seat of the pants diff. or diff. in idle or anything?

I have zero experince with Dyna box, but I was thinking about buying one. I'm an old time drag racer, and one the things we used to mess with all the time on "tune" days was trying advancing the timing and changing the advance (back in those days it involved different weights and different springs) At any rate we were going to have a big Vmax drag strip day and I was beside my self that I couldn't do anything to the timing to try to get a bit more out of WOT/high RPM performance In my searching for "real" numbers I could only find ONE that had dyno runs to show a difference. Most everyone else said they got the best performance with the #1 (stock Yamaha) curve. Makes me wonder what Sean or the other guys that do a lot of Drag racing use in their comp bikes.

Yeah, I would love to hear some input from some serious racers who are
familiar with all the Dyna levels. Anyone with hands on Dyna experience and experimentation?
 
What did the Cops setup run you srk468? Any seat of the pants diff. or diff. in idle or anything?



Yeah, I would love to hear some input from some serious racers who are
familiar with all the Dyna levels. Anyone with hands on Dyna experience and experimentation?

I can't remember exactly but I wanna say around $120 or so but its best to contact Gannon on here and see if he can still get parts cause I'm not sure he can even get the resistors anymore... With the cops it seemed like an easier startup and off the choke earlier but that could all be in my head too LOL I mainly did them cause I needed the real estate for my nitrous stuff and with the extra room up front I could put my hid ballast and relay under the heat shield so I did it mainly for space but it does net you a weight savings of 3lbs though too... The Dyna I wanted for the rev limiter but I did try it at the track and although on average the et stayed the same between curves 1 and 4 on curve 1 I seemed to average about .5 to 1 more mph in trap speed... For street riding I'll admit that it felt like it had more punch down low on curve 4 though but I'm after the best et and mph I can get at the track.. In my opinion the Dyna is worth it for just the rev limiter alone though...

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I can't remember exactly but I wanna say around $120 or so but its best to contact Gannon on here and see if he can still get parts cause I'm not sure he can even get the resistors anymore... With the cops it seemed like an easier startup and off the choke earlier but that could all be in my head too LOL I mainly did them cause I needed the real estate for my nitrous stuff and with the extra room up front I could put my hid ballast and relay under the heat shield so I did it mainly for space but it does net you a weight savings of 3lbs though too... The Dyna I wanted for the rev limiter but I did try it at the track and although on average the et stayed the same between curves 1 and 4 on curve 1 I seemed to average about .5 to 1 more mph in trap speed... For street riding I'll admit that it felt like it had more punch down low on curve 4 though but I'm after the best et and mph I can get at the track.. In my opinion the Dyna is worth it for just the rev limiter alone though...

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Thanks, thats what I needed to know!
 
The Dyna is good and basically I'm saying to run what you like best because its kinda splitting hairs at an identical et and maybe 1 more mph but its got a rev limiter and I've been on it enough times to be really happy that I had one, these engines don't like seeing north of 10,000rpm cause that's when valve springs start breaking along with other expensive shit... I'm still real glad I did the cops too but there's no performance advantage to them other than if your trying to save every last pound on the bike...

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Well fellas, she is running like a demon now! I set the timing back down to sw1, took the carbs apart and cleaned them thoroughly, replaced the dry rotted cracking carb boots(possible vacuum leak) and mainly, one of the flanges that thread into the back of the carb that the boot slips over was slightly loose, letting air in from behind the carb. She runs awesome now!
 
Here are a couple lousy dark quick pics... I ave since, put the stack bonnets on, and soon I plan to strip and polish the front wheel. I am excited, I have the funky tail light delete and replace with a slim LED kit that should be here Wednesday! :punk: This is what I ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360489397352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

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$2800 bux fellas! :biglaugh:
 
I think I have a polished front wheel (needs hit again but the bulk of the hard work is already done). I need to make sure it's still here but if so i'd work a trade with you if you want. OR, sell your current wheels and get a set of the Carrozzeria's from me!

You should get a good chunk out of the current wheels (especially the rear) and then have my much lighter and stronger wheels. I am thinking the silver or red wheels would look sharp on there.

Sean
 
I think I have a polished front wheel (needs hit again but the bulk of the hard work is already done). I need to make sure it's still here but if so i'd work a trade with you if you want. OR, sell your current wheels and get a set of the Carrozzeria's from me!

You should get a good chunk out of the current wheels (especially the rear) and then have my much lighter and stronger wheels. I am thinking the silver or red wheels would look sharp on there.

Sean

You got a pic of that front wheel? Text me a pic to 903-916-OII7. I would most likely be very interested in a swap. No idea what carrozzerias are, and I LOVE that 190 rear, so I would only swap for something I could keep a 190 on...
 
I don't have a pic of it but it's just like yours but stripped and polished. I just have to check and make sure I still have it. The Carrs you can see here:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Morle....10150523248253679.394120.282702488678&type=3

We had a custom run of 50 sets made last year and it will likely be the last sets ever made. They allow you to run a 180 on a stock swingarm and a 200 on a notched arm (or one of our extended swingarms). They are CONSIDERABLY lighter then your current wheel for even better handling and unsprung weight.

I'd probably give you some trade in credit though maybe not as much as you could get in an outright sale here.

Sean
 
I put a brand new Dunlop on my front wheel 4 days ago. It has about 80 miles on it. What kind deal could you make me if I shipped you my front wheel and tire, and you shipped me back the polished one with a shinko or something a little sportier then this dunlop on it? Tire wouldnt have to be new, but I would like at least 75% tread...
 
Having a rev limiter seems like cheap insurance, and a good recommendation for a guy spending $7K+ on a new hi-po engine should be thinking of longevity and tuning ease via the different ignition curves.

You can fit recaps on a 1970 454 LS-6 Chevelle's wheels but would you want to? Maybe a crude comparison but I think there is a lot of value in a rev limiter if you like to hit redline regularly.

You got a great deal, but I bet there are plenty of people here who would be willing to swap wheels w/you so you get an unpainted wheel or one already polished. It seems a shame to lose the stock finish on that wheel, someone would do a deal w/you for it I bet.
 
Having a rev limiter seems like cheap insurance, and a good recommendation for a guy spending $7K+ on a new hi-po engine should be thinking of longevity and tuning ease via the different ignition curves.

You can fit recaps on a 1970 454 LS-6 Chevelle's wheels but would you want to? Maybe a crude comparison but I think there is a lot of value in a rev limiter if you like to hit redline regularly.

You got a great deal, but I bet there are plenty of people here who would be willing to swap wheels w/you so you get an unpainted wheel or one already polished. It seems a shame to lose the stock finish on that wheel, someone would do a deal w/you for it I bet.

Perfectly said, not sure I would trust the heavy advance curves even on a tricked out engine but I need a rev limiter... Driveshaft breaks on juice or something like that and I'd be screwed, when I broke the last one on motor I was on it hard at 10,000rpm so I'll be keeping mine...
 
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