Tuning PCV + Autotune

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Mr. Max

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I just installed Akrapovic de-cat pipes and mufflers, and bike has air box mod (MAB) and K&N filter.
Does anyone have same setup, and could send me yor map to test? Or advice to what AFR to try? I have downloaded maps from Dynojet, and they seem to have different AFR settings for european models, is there some differences between euro/USA models, that affects tuning?

I'm thinking to get Nash Flash during winter, but I don't feel comfortable to ship my ECU internationally during this pandemia, it may get lost or stuck somewhere. Can I buy new ECU from Gurued Gear, have it flashed and shipped and bike will run with that? Or does it have some kind of anti-theft features on it? In the car world changing ECU is not so simple, but I don't know about bikes.
 
Are you happy with the way the bike runs with the map you have loaded? I'm assuming you loaded the one that was described as the European tune?

The maps that are on the Dynojet site are maps that were shared by tuners. They are not from work Dynojet did.
That being said there will be differences because of conditions, fuel grade that was used, whether or not the silencers were installed….....etc.

I would say if you are happy with the way the bike runs, use that map until you can get your ECU reflashed. You can buy an ECU ($805) from Gurued Gear and have it sent to you with the reflash done, if you want to make that investment.

The AutoTune can be used to "fine tune" your map BUT, you could also make the map much worse if you don't know exactly what you are doing. It's not completely "Auto", there is some operator knowledge needed.
 
Bike ran great with stock exhaust, but I haven’t found good tune for akros yet. AFR for european model was from 13,2 to 13, which feels better than more complicated 13,7 to 13 map.

I actually bought ECU + Flash today, but I got message that it was backordered, it seems that they didn’t got stock after all. No answer from Gurued Gear yet.

Can you Itgoes check your throttle calibration voltages? I have set the zero so throttle is zero at idle, but I think my 100% value is off because I cant get any trim values to 100% columns, even though I have ridden bike hard around 120 mph with wot. I know it should be set on dyno, but to get it close is good enough before I get flashed ecu.
 
Bike ran great with stock exhaust, but I haven’t found good tune for akros yet. AFR for european model was from 13,2 to 13, which feels better than more complicated 13,7 to 13 map.

I actually bought ECU + Flash today, but I got message that it was backordered, it seems that they didn’t got stock after all. No answer from Gurued Gear yet.

Can you Itgoes check your throttle calibration voltages? I have set the zero so throttle is zero at idle, but I think my 100% value is off because I cant get any trim values to 100% columns, even though I have ridden bike hard around 120 mph with wot. I know it should be set on dyno, but to get it close is good enough before I get flashed ecu.

Set the minimum voltage to .710 and the max voltage to 4.125.

Type in the voltages, do not press "reset".
 
Set max voltage to 4.125 and bike runs much better now, nice! I also have my flashed ECU on the way, posts from Gurued Gear had gone to junk folder.. But it was flashed and sent in hours from payment!

I'm thinking to remove power commander + autotune completely from bike, but how it goes with O2 sensor then? Bike is new to me and PO had power commander installed, but I think that autotune comes with Dynojet O2 sensor (which is Bosch 0258007206), do I need to install Yamaha original O2 sensor with flashed ECU or does this Dynojet sensor fit? Yamaha part. # for O2 sensor seems to be 2S3-8592A-00-00.
 
It's my understanding that with a reflashed ecu ( gurud gear) that you wont need to run the O2 sensor. If you are running the stock ecu.....even with a power commander you must run the stock O2 sensor. The dynojet O2 sensor is only if your running the autotune.
 
One more thing. Do you HAVE to run an O2 sensor with a stock ecu? No.....but apparently yamaha has a fail safe mode that will make you run very rich.....down in the 10s on the A/F range. I've heard of people that did this in the beginning to richen up the A/F mixture. For me....I'm running a reflashed ecu....pcv... autotune.. and have the pcv set up for maps in different gears and I am VERY happy and the bike runs amazingly well everywhere.
 
Ok, so stock ECU, PCV + Autotune, no original O2 sensor installed, bike runs rich and that has to be corrected with autotune? This would explain why I had fuel -5...-25 across the map, specially at 2% position with stock exhaust, only MAB and K&N filter.

I’m not sure if I have Dynojet O2 controller or not? I expect that it somehow fools ECU to think that there is O2 sensor if it is removed.

Where did you get the gear info to PCV? Mine is not connected, always gear 1.
 
If the bike is rich or lean it can be corrected with the PCV or the autotune. For others who might not know, here is a reminder how the PCV and autotune work. You can the ECU (either stock or gurued). The PCV lays ontop of that. When the PCV is -9 or +9, that means subtracting 9% of fuel or adding 9% fuel, in that cell (in that area). Typically it is percentage of throttle (across the top) and RPM across the left side, and you see where they intersect.

The autotune lays ontop of the PCV. Whereas the PCV operates in percentages of fuel, the autotune operates in A/F numbers. So if you tell the autotune that at 5000 rpm (and 40% throttle for instance) you want an A/F of 14.7, it then works with the PCV to see how much fuel either needs to be added or taken away. So the PCV will then give a recommendation of say adding ( +5) to ACHIEVE the 14.7 that you want.

Did someone tune your max, or did you? There are some very good base maps on dynojets website to help get you in the area.

Just FYI dynojet recommends NOT changing the fuel on the PCV at 10% throttle position and below. So they means there will be a 0 in those cells, and it will be running of what ever map is in the ECU.

Maps for multiple gears is VERY easy if you run a speedo healer. You tap into the output from the healer going into the ECU and put that wire into the PCV. With just running a map that covers all 5 gears....its a compromise. 5000 rpm at 40% throttle in 1st gear might have a different fuel requirement than 5000 rpm at 40% throttle in 5th gear

I will post some videos to help get you situated.

Base maps. You will need to create an account on dynojet.

https://www.dynojet.com/tunes


 
If the bike is rich or lean it can be corrected with the PCV or the autotune. For others who might not know, here is a reminder how the PCV and autotune work. You can the ECU (either stock or gurued). The PCV lays ontop of that. When the PCV is -9 or +9, that means subtracting 9% of fuel or adding 9% fuel, in that cell (in that area). Typically it is percentage of throttle (across the top) and RPM across the left side, and you see where they intersect.

The autotune lays ontop of the PCV. Whereas the PCV operates in percentages of fuel, the autotune operates in A/F numbers. So if you tell the autotune that at 5000 rpm (and 40% throttle for instance) you want an A/F of 14.7, it then works with the PCV to see how much fuel either needs to be added or taken away. So the PCV will then give a recommendation of say adding ( +5) to ACHIEVE the 14.7 that you want.

Did someone tune your max, or did you? There are some very good base maps on dynojets website to help get you in the area.

Just FYI dynojet recommends NOT changing the fuel on the PCV at 10% throttle position and below. So they means there will be a 0 in those cells, and it will be running of what ever map is in the ECU.

Maps for multiple gears is VERY easy if you run a speedo healer. You tap into the output from the healer going into the ECU and put that wire into the PCV. With just running a map that covers all 5 gears....its a compromise. 5000 rpm at 40% throttle in 1st gear might have a different fuel requirement than 5000 rpm at 40% throttle in 5th gear

I will post some videos to help get you situated.

Base maps. You will need to create an account on dynojet.

https://www.dynojet.com/tunes




if I recall Tim builds in a little richer a/f just to be safe so the piggyback commander is not entirely necessary in my opinion. Do you agree with that? I thought about an autotune but asked him about it and since it runs flawless just havent dug into it deeper..
 
if I recall Tim builds in a little richer a/f just to be safe so the piggyback commander is not entirely necessary in my opinion. Do you agree with that? I thought about an autotune but asked him about it and since it runs flawless just havent dug into it deeper..

When I called Tim the first time, he said that 80% of people will be perfectly happy with the reflashed ECU and would not need the PCV. The other 20% would typically want the PCV to be able to dial in the Air fuel curve perfectly.

Right now Ive picked up 3 HP 5 Lb TQ over the reflashed ECU. So all of that just due to fine tuning. There is probably a few more HP with fine tuning but thats it.

Basically it comes down to what you want, are willing to spend, and have the resources to spend. Is it Necessary.....no, is it fun.....yes. I'm one of those weird people that like to tinker and play with stuff.
 
When I bought my bike I didn't even know it has pcv + autotune installed, I found those when I was changing battery. Bike was running a bit quirky at low cruise speeds and throttle response was very edgy, that's why I started to "tuning" pcv, I thought that bike might have had some after market exhaust on and maybe pcv still has tune for that. I have dowloaded tunes from Dynojet site and then gone from there with autotune, and got bike running better too. I tried 0-map at some point, it's stock bike so stock ecu should run just fine, but it wasn't good at all and got horrible mileage. That's because there is no O2-sensor for ecu, I just understanded that from Traumahawk's posts.

At some point I resetted throttle position, I thought it could be set by throttle easily but learned afterwards that on fly-by-wire systems it could be set only on dyno. And I didn't look what it was before reset.. Itgoes's 4.125V seems to work great!

I try 0-map with flashed ecu when I get it, and maybe autotune at some point. We get a lot difference in temperatures during season, can be from 32 to 95 fahrenheit and anything between, autotune may help with that.
 
When I called Tim the first time, he said that 80% of people will be perfectly happy with the reflashed ECU and would not need the PCV. The other 20% would typically want the PCV to be able to dial in the Air fuel curve perfectly.

Right now Ive picked up 3 HP 5 Lb TQ over the reflashed ECU. So all of that just due to fine tuning. There is probably a few more HP with fine tuning but thats it.

Basically it comes down to what you want, are willing to spend, and have the resources to spend. Is it Necessary.....no, is it fun.....yes. I'm one of those weird people that like to tinker and play with stuff.
Did you fuel mileage improve a bit or stayed same. I ask because since getting the guru ecu, I've lost maybe 4 mpg. W a 4 gallon tank. And limited mileage, those 16 total miles are missed 😂
 
Did you fuel mileage improve a bit or stayed same. I ask because since getting the guru ecu, I've lost maybe 4 mpg. W a 4 gallon tank. And limited mileage, those 16 total miles are missed 😂
With the autotune, you can tune the bike lean where you want it to increase the mileage. Mine has increase but dont have any hard numbers just yet.
 
This is why I am a big fan of having the PCV set up for different gears. I have the same autotune settings in 4th and 5th gears, but look, different fuel requirements.
 

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Set the minimum voltage to .710 and the max voltage to 4.125.

Type in the voltages, do not press "reset".
Sorry to jump in here, but having this exact problem right now. PCV was showing my throttle bouncing between 0-1% fully closed. So I attempted to fix, hit the wrong button, and the closed/full throttle values went to zeros. Tried to manually enter the numbers (luckily took a pic before I messed it up). Started the bike, and the numbers I entered didn’t take (this time closed throttle showed 16%). Tried to manually enter numbers again, this time while bike was running, but it would not allow me to type anything in the blocks while running. Also, and on a side note, after a lot of work (and realizing Dynojet forgot to give me a can termination plug) finally got the Dynojet software to recognize my autotune module, but AFR is stuck on 9.99, even after I warmed up the bike, and checked my wiring. All the O2 sensor wires look good. For power, I posi-tapped into the yellow brake light wire, which I believe is switched hot, and grounded to the black brake light wire. Can’t figure this out. Any guidance appreciated.
 
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