turning rotors help?

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woodsman30

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I live in the Buffalo NY area and was wondering if anybody knows of a machine shop that turns rotors? Its not for a vmax its for a 1998 kawaski Vulcan classic 1500. I would buy new just what I am finding is stupid pricing or stupid shipping I am not wanting to spend 300-400 for one front rotor thats crazy right:ummm:
 
I just googled it and it seems that some have them ground like a fly wheel on a car, but there is a big safety concen on thickness of rotor after the grinding process.
 
It is a liability issue. You need to stress to the owner that certain things need to be replaced for safety's sake. There are aftermarket choices you can make that do not require $300/rotor, but you probably will be spending $100+ for a single rotor.

No one is likely going to surface your rotor because of the liability issue. This is a time when the owner needs to 'bite the bullet' and pony-up the $ for his safety. The factory manual will tell you what the min. thickness is. You can decide if the clean-up of the rotor would put thickness below that. Sometimes the min. thickness is cast-into the rotor itself, try there, then the factory manual. Really, braking components are no-place to scrimp on your budget. I don't even rebuild master cylinders any more, I just buy new ones. $100+ for a new one vs. ~$25 for a kit, which may or may-not work? How-much do you value your life-at for a $ figure?
 
it is a liability issue. You need to stress to the owner that certain things need to be replaced for safety's sake. There are aftermarket choices you can make that do not require $300/rotor, but you probably will be spending $100+ for a single rotor.

No one is likely going to surface your rotor because of the liability issue. This is a time when the owner needs to 'bite the bullet' and pony-up the $ for his safety. The factory manual will tell you what the min. Thickness is. You can decide if the clean-up of the rotor would put thickness below that. Sometimes the min. Thickness is cast-into the rotor itself, try there, then the factory manual. Really, braking components are no-place to scrimp on your budget. I don't even rebuild master cylinders any more, i just buy new ones. $100+ for a new one vs. ~$25 for a kit, which may or may-not work? How-much do you value your life-at for a $ figure?

+1
 
It is a liability issue. You need to stress to the owner that certain things need to be replaced for safety's sake. There are aftermarket choices you can make that do not require $300/rotor, but you probably will be spending $100+ for a single rotor.

No one is likely going to surface your rotor because of the liability issue. This is a time when the owner needs to 'bite the bullet' and pony-up the $ for his safety. The factory manual will tell you what the min. thickness is. You can decide if the clean-up of the rotor would put thickness below that. Sometimes the min. thickness is cast-into the rotor itself, try there, then the factory manual. Really, braking components are no-place to scrimp on your budget. I don't even rebuild master cylinders any more, I just buy new ones. $100+ for a new one vs. ~$25 for a kit, which may or may-not work? How-much do you value your life-at for a $ figure?

Nothing to do with biting the bullet just was a question on turning if I have to pay for a new one its no big deal have to have what you have to have. I have not seen anything in the 100 + range do you know of a place that sells them? The stealership is the last place I will go they quoted me 400.00 for one :bang head:
 
Agreed, check new aftermarket. Even the China galfer knockoff's are decent.

BUT, if the rotor can be ground and stay within the thickness limits I see no reason at all why this can't be done.
 
I ve ground bike rotors with no problems in the past. But I don't have access to the setup I was using years ago. And honestly the setup time and hassle involved isn't worth it to me now. But on the same token, making sure a new rotor is parallel can be tricky too , depending on how picky you are.....
 
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