1st Gen V-Max Unexpected 1999 V-Max Owner

[Maxcaddy]

I seem to remember that there was in fact a Dyno Stage 3 kit (as well as St 1 and St 7) made in the 90's, but then dropped from their sales products. That is unless my memory is failing ?

 

[Fire-medic]

Well, someone may have made one, but I don't recall it being Dynojet. Over 30 years a VMax owner and let us say, more-than one. Maybe there was something from Europe which was referred to as that, which didn't make it stateside, but I'm unfamiliar with anything for a Gen. 1 carburetor system by that name.

 

[Davelaf]

There is no such thing as a Stage 3 jet kit for the Vmax. They do actually have Stage 3's for other bikes like the Yamaha Fazer/FZX. The S1 is junk. The S7 eliminates the vboost when done to full instruction and has pod filters. My kit is a hybrid of the S7 leaving the Vboost intact to keep the low and mid range power while still getting the full gains up top that the S7 does.

Other companies had jet kits too. Still none referred to them as a S3 kit.

I was told the newer stage 7 kits don't require the 4 pod filters. I could be wrong, but?

 

[Fire-medic]

I use a Stage 7 and the K&N OEM replacement oval filter w/the OEM airbox, and I retained VBoost.

 

[one2dmax]

Let me say this one more time. THERE WAS NEVER A STAGE 3 KIT made for the Vmax. They offered it for other models including versions like the FZR1000 and FZX700/750's.

There were other jet kits like Factory Pro, a Cobra kit (repacked S1), a Dale Walker Kit (repackaged S1), and even a Dial-A-Jet kit (pretty unique kit). Plus a few different complete carb racks (Mikuni Downdraft Flats and Keihin Flats in a few different configurations including a UFO version that sat sideways).

The S7 kit is what allows you to run the pods with the idea of maximum airflow. Our kit is a hybrid of that kid that keeps the airbox and uses a flat filter. This lets you maintain the airbox intake pulse as well as the internal velocity stacks to condense the airflow and speed doing into the carbs.

 

[RedMax]

My girl now has a face, and a body that accurately reflects how I see her

 

[cdgawatersports]

She's looking good.

 

[apsolus]

first guy ive ever heard of that bought a vmax to keep from having "oh shi t moments" haha. leave this bike be for to long and youll start having some oh **** moments here too lol

 

[brian hicks]

My girl now has a face, and a body that accurately reflects how I see her

I love red and thats a good example.

 

[brian hicks]

My girl now has a face, and a body that accurately reflects how I see her

It would cost a minimum of £1000 to have a job like that done here in UK.

 

[[email protected]]

If you are on a tight budget, don't spend money you don't need to.

That oil gauge from Cycle One Off is not a necessity by any stretch of the imagination. If you are worried about the "dreaded orange o-ring" take a look at it when you replace your oil sump in the future. It will be easy to see. Sean Morley sells a "oval o-ring" mod that can be done if you're really worried. Cheap and easy if you already have the oil pan off. You can wire tie the oil tubing up if you're really concerned or, buy an engine saver bracket. Just my opinion, but none of this is really necessary. Just warm the engine up to temp before hammering on it.

I'd not replace those coils as Sean and Kyle both mentioned.
If you want to replace the plug wires, you don't need special tools. The spark plug boots screw right into the wires. Since you've taken off the coils you see they screw right into them as well.
Check the coils for any corrosion where the wire plugs in.
The boots can be taken apart and cleaned up if you feel they need addressed. You can test them per the manual. Dannymax wrote a how to on this years ago.

The stuttering issues you describe sound like a carb adjustment issue to me. The rpms you mention sound like its mainly a needle issue.
If you're not looking for max power the air filter setup you have is fine (stock)
#1, buy a "Y" for your airbox. Check with Sean Morley, Captain Kyle, or Ebay. Since you have aftermarket exhaust, you can ship the Y up to 1/4 with washers to allow a little additional airflow.
You mentioned the bike has a carb kit. Its definitely not stage 7 so, probably stage 1 which folks typically have issues getting to run correctly.
#2, either try to tune with what you have or, go back to stock jetting. Install the Y first and then test. If the same problem persists you can try to adjust the carbs per the attached document.

Good job on synching the carbs. It make a big difference if things are off.

You should also check the vboost cable for proper adjustment. https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-adjust-vboost-cable.4361/
You can leave airbox on, remove the chrome H-covers from the side of the carbs, loosen the set screw, cycle ignition, then tighten set screw. This should remove all slack from the cable.

 

[RedMax]

It would cost a minimum of £1000 to have a job like that done here in UK.

I only paid $500 for this awesome art on my hood! I love her

 

[Fire-medic]

Since you have aftermarket exhaust, you can ship the Y up to 1/4 with washers to allow a little additional airflow.

[email protected] means, "shim the Y, "of course. That post has good advice.

 

[gavicool]

If you are on a tight budget, don't spend money you don't need to.

That oil gauge from Cycle One Off is not a necessity by any stretch of the imagination. If you are worried about the "dreaded orange o-ring" take a look at it when you replace your oil sump in the future. It will be easy to see. Sean Morley sells a "oval o-ring" mod that can be done if you're really worried. Cheap and easy if you already have the oil pan off. You can wire tie the oil tubing up if you're really concerned or, buy an engine saver bracket. Just my opinion, but none of this is really necessary. Just warm the engine up to temp before hammering on it.

I'd not replace those coils as Sean and Kyle both mentioned.
If you want to replace the plug wires, you don't need special tools. The spark plug boots screw right into the wires. Since you've taken off the coils you see they screw right into them as well.
Check the coils for any corrosion where the wire plugs in.
The boots can be taken apart and cleaned up if you feel they need addressed. You can test them per the manual. Dannymax wrote a how to on this years ago.

The stuttering issues you describe sound like a carb adjustment issue to me. The rpms you mention sound like its mainly a needle issue.
If you're not looking for max power the air filter setup you have is fine (stock)
#1, buy a "Y" for your airbox. Check with Sean Morley, Captain Kyle, or Ebay. Since you have aftermarket exhaust, you can ship the Y up to 1/4 with washers to allow a little additional airflow.
You mentioned the bike has a carb kit. Its definitely not stage 7 so, probably stage 1 which folks typically have issues getting to run correctly.
#2, either try to tune with what you have or, go back to stock jetting. Install the Y first and then test. If the same problem persists you can try to adjust the carbs per the attached document.

Good job on synching the carbs. It make a big difference if things are off.

You should also check the vboost cable for proper adjustment. https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-adjust-vboost-cable.4361/
You can leave airbox on, remove the chrome H-covers from the side of the carbs, loosen the set screw, cycle ignition, then tighten set screw. This should remove all slack from the cable.

Hello,great tips!!
But I have a daut,in your Carb Tunning*pdf document whad does it mean "WOT"?