vboost controller/manual?

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jims94vmx

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I Know there has been threads about the vboost but wondered if there is an alternative to the stock control box (or even the price of a new-er control box)?

I also wondered do we really need one if we could somehow make it work like the old 4 barrel carbs and have the butterflies open as you twist your wrist?

Mine will cycle with key but sometimes keeps doing it like it can't make up its mind! LOL This year seems to be the year I have to keep doing little things to it....just put in a newer slave (leak), and a few other minor things.

Really been toying with the idea of selling.....but a 94 with 76K on it even with the mods might now be worth much? Loved the Gen II, but will have to wait.

Thanks guys,
 
Have you guys tried cleaning up and di-electric grease on the connectors...might get lucky and be corrosion causing the issues. :confused2:

Tha activator and controller look good but I don't see a servo motor....if that turns out to be the problem.....:confused2:
 
We sell the micro unit but the ignitech can control it too. I have seen someone on here do a manual cable like a choke. Pretty slick setup.
 
The easiest / cleanest way to rig a manual setup is to use the left-hand switchgear from a Venture: it is the same as the vmax but has a manual choke cable which can easily be rigged to the vboost valves. Looks factory that way :)
 
I Know there has been threads about the vboost but wondered if there is an alternative to the stock control box (or even the price of a new-er control box)?

I also wondered do we really need one if we could somehow make it work like the old 4 barrel carbs and have the butterflies open as you twist your wrist?

Mine will cycle with key but sometimes keeps doing it like it can't make up its mind! LOL This year seems to be the year I have to keep doing little things to it....just put in a newer slave (leak), and a few other minor things.

Really been toying with the idea of selling.....but a 94 with 76K on it even with the mods might now be worth much? Loved the Gen II, but will have to wait.

Thanks guys,

You could always unplug the round electrical connector under the left airhorn/scoop, and run VBoost always-open, something a lot of guys do w/the Stage 7 Dynojet jet kit (me being one of them). That makes synching the carbs much-easier, compared to the Dynojet instructions to remove the butterflies and to replace them w/aluminum tubes they supply. On a stock carb system, you might lose a bit of throttle response and ease-of-operation, but if the VBoost is giving you problems, at-least you could avoid those issues this way.

Your bike is 'Maxed"-out on the depreciation curve, given its age and mileage. At this point in the life cycle, it's probably worth more for parts than it is as a complete bike for sale. Whatever you spend to mod it from here-on-out, if you ever decide to sell, remove the mods and return it to stock, and sell the aftermarket stuff separately, and then the stock bike, or just part-out the entire bike.

I hope you saved your slave cyl, the rebuild kits are very inexpensive, and easy to do. Get one, clean-up your removed one, and then you will have one sitting on a shelf, ready for installation if you need it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-VMAX...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d10fac556&vxp=mtr
 
We sell the micro unit but the ignitech can control it too. I have seen someone on here do a manual cable like a choke. Pretty slick setup.

I think the ignitech unit sounds like the best idea. Sounds like a bigger bang for the buck. I hope to do that and the COP conversion this winter. Getting rid of the 28 year old ignition, coils and plug wires sounds like good preventative maintance.
 
I think the ignitech unit sounds like the best idea. Sounds like a bigger bang for the buck. I hope to do that and the COP conversion this winter. Getting rid of the 28 year old ignition, coils and plug wires sounds like good preventative maintance.

I have a '92, and did the old-style DYNA 3000 dip-switch and COP's from Gannon. Either way would work for you, but availability and instructions for an easy installation may push you to one over another.
 
Like mechanical secondaries??

Always liked that idea....

I've looked the carb and Vboost linkage over several times trying to plan/figure a way to tie the Vboost mechanically to the throttle linkage.

Its possible.....just hasn't gelled yet.
 
thanks for taking the time here.....will be taking a closer look later this year.....might wait till it is to cold to ride. keep any ideas flowing though.....
 
The easiest / cleanest way to rig a manual setup is to use the left-hand switchgear from a Venture: it is the same as the vmax but has a manual choke cable which can easily be rigged to the vboost valves. Looks factory that way :)

If someone would like to try this approach, I have a couple of old left hand electrical controls from a Venture with the choke lever on it. They are not great looking on the top half. The lower half may be a replacement for just the lower half on a VMax, there is no lettering on the bottom, if horn button was replaced with yours. Choke lettering will come off with acetone.

Most of junk on it in picture will clean up, its been in garage for some time.

Gary
 

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I believe the Vmax housing is threaded to accept the choke housing with no other mods.
 
I believe the Vmax housing is threaded to accept the choke housing with no other mods.

That much easier. I also have the choke cable. Your on your own to attach to vboost unit.

There are 2 screws under the thumb lever, which is attached by screw seen in picture.

These are real cheap, BTW.

Gary
 

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carbs off and messing with vboost, the box with any pressure will have the boost going wacky!

What is the ignitech unit that is mentioned? I saw the other unit that fits inside the old vboost box for @ 189.00......is this any cheaper? Not sure how I would hook up the linkage after looking at the carbs and vboost today...I still like the idea of the throttle controlling the opening of the butterflies as in the further you twist the further the butterflies open....maybe starting around the half throttle position so you don't flood the engine at to low of an rpm.....
 
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