Vmax virgin looking to buy - what should I look (out) for?

[acammer]

Definitely on my list of things to consider. I'm not thrilled with a 20 hour ride home on a bunch of boring toll roads. 20 hours of riding period is gonna be a big stretch for somebody thats been out of the saddle for a year with the exeception to a handful of weekends on the sportster. Still, shipping is an option, and the 85 with black chrome does look nice. Guess we'll see where the budget takes me over the next few weeks.

 

[gamorg02]

That's funny shit... Breads and fries... lol


BREEDS! :rofl_200:

You can't go wrong with Sean. He won't lead you down the wrong road.

haha damnit!

 

[vmax2extreme]

Here is a first make 1985 with only 22k on it. I bet you can talk him down some too!

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/2118130318.html

 

[acammer]

Possibility. The local Stealership called me back today with a second offer on the '02 carbonfiber they have that is really almost too good to pass up. I did pass on it initially to see if I can squeeze them for a little bit better financing, if I could buy enough time I'd just buy it outright. Monday will tell a lot, the insurance co. will look at the car, I may even hold off on my repairs to buy the bike outright now, and do the repairs with tax money - there is a battle of epic proportions going on in my mind on whether or not that's really a good idea or not.

So as far as specific trouble items to look out for, you guys haven't mentioned one thing, which I guess is good because I would assume that means there are no glaring issues that end up problems on near every bike. Obviously you check bearings, tire wear, mechanical noise, leaks, starting/charging system, etc...

 

[gamorg02]

Possibility. The local Stealership called me back today with a second offer on the '02 carbonfiber they have that is really almost too good to pass up. I did pass on it initially to see if I can squeeze them for a little bit better financing, if I could buy enough time I'd just buy it outright. Monday will tell a lot, the insurance co. will look at the car, I may even hold off on my repairs to buy the bike outright now, and do the repairs with tax money - there is a battle of epic proportions going on in my mind on whether or not that's really a good idea or not.

So as far as specific trouble items to look out for, you guys haven't mentioned one thing, which I guess is good because I would assume that means there are no glaring issues that end up problems on near every bike. Obviously you check bearings, tire wear, mechanical noise, leaks, starting/charging system, etc...

exactly, by '02 all but one issue (i think the new oiling o-ring/eblow) was fixed and thats easily rectified.

its too bad its nto warmer out always a good idea to ride vmax's hard in 2nd gear maek sure it doesn't wanna pop out.

 

[acammer]

exactly, by '02 all but one issue (i think the new oiling o-ring/eblow) was fixed and thats easily rectified.

its too bad its nto warmer out always a good idea to ride vmax's hard in 2nd gear maek sure it doesn't wanna pop out.

Now that's the kinda stuff I'm looking for - a potential second gear issue - cause you can bet I'm not buying a Vmax to take it easy on.

 

[gamorg02]

Now that's the kinda stuff I'm looking for - a potential second gear issue - cause you can bet I'm not buying a Vmax to take it easy on.

the later ones (after mid 90s i believe) were less likely to have it, but if u buy it i'd get a specific warranty covering that if you find it say april/may timeframe.

i'd also get an oil pressure gauge on it stat. cycleoneoff sells them.

 

[Redbone]

Most of the "problems" that the Vmax had were in the early years; 2nd gear issue/ wimpy brakes. While second gear can be a problem on most any performance bike, the newer bikes from '97 onwards have less problems with it due to design changes.
Generally speaking if you get a '02 or later you should be good to go, just watch out for a bike that's 8 years old and has less than 5 k on it, a sitting bike can have more problems than a bike that get 4-5000 miles a year on it. Good luck with your search and welcome to VMF!

 

[one2dmax]

Oh, the 85 has a 2005 engine in it. Can't remember if I noted that in the thread on it.

 

[Hatter]

And if I remember right, Sean sells painted body kits to change your bike to just about any color.

 

[vmax2extreme]

the later ones (after mid 90s i believe) were less likely to have it, but if u buy it i'd get a specific warranty covering that if you find it say april/may timeframe.

i'd also get an oil pressure gauge on it stat. cycleoneoff sells them.

To what I hear those oil pressure gauges are pretty useless all in all. They are fine when idle but once running we know our sump drains out as we get the red light firing up on hard riding.....

 

[gamorg02]

To what I hear those oil pressure gauges are pretty useless all in all. They are fine when idle but once running we know our sump drains out as we get the red light firing up on hard riding.....

the red light on the bike is an oil LEVEL gauge. an oil pressure gauge is an aftermarket add on and more more usefull than the level gauge.

 

[Redbone]

The oil pressure gauge works well with our engine especially for those of us in the northern climate. I use to while warming up to know when it's OK to get on it.
The oil light is just a warning light to let you know when the oil is too low. It is located in the front of the engine and under heavy acceleration/ wheelies it lights up; not a real big worry unless it stay on after normal riding is resumed.

 

[vmax2extreme]

the red light on the bike is an oil LEVEL gauge. an oil pressure gauge is an aftermarket add on and more more usefull than the level gauge.

I know the oil level light goes on due to heavy acceleration, etc. I just heard and I'm looking into from where that these oil pressure gauges are more novelty than useful is all. I opt out since I dont see any advantage to using one.

 

[one2dmax]

Just finished up wiring for the oil pressure gauge on the reaper bike. It has two outputs. One for the gauge (which is electric of hydralic) and the other is for the idiot light. You can "T" it in with a relay wired for ground and let it turn on the light when there is low oil pressure too.

Doing a bunch of creative wiring on this thing for sure.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

I know the oil level light goes on due to heavy acceleration, etc. I just heard and I'm looking into from where that these oil pressure gauges are more novelty than useful is all. I opt out since I dont see any advantage to using one.

you dont' see any advantage to making sure your oil pressure is good? or knowing its at a warmed up pressure before romping on the bike?

you'd rather rely on a system that just tells you when your low and is somewhat helpful at best?

 

[Rollie]

Just finished up wiring for the oil pressure gauge on the reaper bike. It has two outputs. One for the gauge (which is electric of hydralic) and the other is for the idiot light. You can "T" it in with a relay wired for ground and let it turn on the light when there is low oil pressure too.

Doing a bunch of creative wiring on this thing for sure.

Sean

I'm looking for one in black with c.f. or engine-turned look for the face. Sean.......

:worthy:

 

[[email protected]]

I think COO uses Marshall gauges. 1.5", liquid filled, mechanical, no lighting.

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/catalog/shockproof.cfm?startrow=1

I believe they have CF, and turned gauge faces.

I think I'd rather have one with some lighting though.

marshall also makes some big tach's with shift light, that I believe would work with our bikes. Pricing is reasonable too. Not sure on quality, never heard much about them.
http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5296.cfm

 

[acammer]

Well, I'm official now, I just laid out the money on a VMax. Bought it at a local Harley shop of all places. 2002 Carbon Fiber, 19k miles, near stock, just has big windshield, back-rest, and highway pegs. The shield and back-rest will be going as soon as it gets home to my garage, I think I'll like having the highway pegs for an alternate foot location. Going to start with modifying the stock exhaust, and if that's not enough I'll probably move on to some Supertrap slip-ons - I like things pretty loud. Jetting will come too, depending on how it runs. Other than that, it just needs to be ridden. A lot!

 

[bigrubbers4x4]

first mod to do should be to get a new seat, the stock nut buster really sucks!!! go with a RMSportmax or UFO starfighter. the Corbin is like sitting on a brick.