1st Gen V-Max - Warp12's 1989 V-Max Restoration: 3743 miles -

[Warp12]

VMax Year

1989

Ok, so it has been a while since I was riding this bike. Probably close to 8 years since it ran? Basically it was just parked when the carbs went south from sitting for too long.




The original thread where I got this thing going pretty good, and did a lot of work to it, is here:

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/warp12s-1989-v-max-adventure.28610/
The photos were lost in that thread, somehow. I plan to add them back, but that will be a little later.

Anyway, the bike doesn't run, and there are many problems to address. I figured I would try to keep it to one thread because otherwise I will have to do 50 small threads, and won't be able to track the progress as much. First goal is to get it running; I am not worried about riding it right now. So, as I determine new problems and solutions, and with some of your help, my plan is to post here, and include pics.

 

[Warp12]

Before it was parked. In going back through some posts, it looks like more like 8.5 years since it has ran.

 

[Warp12]

I cleaned up a few areas, and it still looks fairly decent:


Don't be fooled by the above pic. This is how neglected and nasty things are/were:


On another note, I am still getting used to posting pics as attachments. So, I might make some size changes or something. Not quite sure. All of my other stuff was stored in my web server space, so the process was different. I'm also in the process of cleaning out the garage to a usable condition. I've been in this house for about 6 years and haven't been able to easily work as it was completely packed in.

 

[Zeus36]

I think here was a change to the forum that allows you to copy and paste pics directly into the post.

 

[Warp12]

So, to start, I charged up a battery and turned on the ignition, to see what would happen.

1) V-Boost cycles lazy, or not at all. Lubricated cable, much improved.
2) Removed plugs, and starter does turn over motor. So nothing is seized up, it seems.
3) Fuel pump does not run.

Ok, so on the fuel pump issue. I can't get into the tank. I believe the "wings" on the cap are frozen inside. I can turn the lock to about the 2 o'clock position before it stops (has been lubricated). About 2 years ago I did look inside, and all I could see was white powder on the immediately visible surfaces.

So, the questions are:

1) How to get the cap off, free up that mechanism? Is there a way, or do I need to go to plan B?
2) Could the fuel pump not try to run because the tank may be empty? Obviously, carbs aren't installed, either. No voltage is present between the two wires at the pump connector.

Any input appreciated.

 

[02GF74]

1) plan B probably. The key needs to turn 90 degrees so 3 o'clock, your not far off but requires the spring loaded lugs to release. Try spraying penetrating fluid (PlusGas or WD40) into the key hole over a few days, then try to gently turn the key, also tap and try to turn the cap. Hopefully the key part is not sealed so fluid will get to the lugs. I don't think you can get to the lugs as there is a rubber seal and overlap by the cap.

I suspect you will end up destroying the cap to gey it out, I don't think replacements are easy to get hold of, but in theory the key barrel wasn't damaged so could be transferred.

B) check that there is power to the pump, there may be a fuse so check that. Check the ground to the pump.
I see know reason why the pump should not run when empty. The pumps stops when it is unable to pump fuel into the carbs. It is possible the carb float valves are stuck and there is fuel in the hose but unlikely, to rule that out, disconnect the out hose from the pump.

Good luck.

 

[Fire-medic]

02GF74 said:
"I suspect you will end up destroying the cap to get it out, "

Not so. Look for threads under my name under 'gas cap.' There are a couple different things I tried. Read those, then consider this.

1) remove gas tank. Yes I know, a P I.A.
2) turn tank upside down after draining it. Soak the gas cap/filler neck area in acetone to cut through the gum holding the cap detents stuck. Keep it outside away from combustibles. After 24 hours try to open the lock. No good? Another 24 hours. That should do it. You want the gas cap totally submerged in the solvent.
3) if that doesn't do it, use a really-long Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the underside of the gas cap. The reserve sending unit is where the screwdriver goes. The mechanism will fall apart into the tank. The gas cap will be released. Make sure you collect all the parts.
4) Look at my other threads for other options.

 

[Warp12]

Thanks for the input, guys. I really appreciate it.

So, first, I have some good news on the fuel pump issue: it works!

I remembered yesterday that I had come across this while cleaning up the garage:


I think I have had this thing for close to 20 years? I bought it off of eBay when I had a basket case that I never restored. So, I followed the procedure to test the fuel pump, and I found that the problem was...drumroll...the battery! I guess it was dropping low on voltage when under load. It is an old Shorai with a questionable output. Even though it measured fine static...when I checked at the fuel pump relay, and the pump connector, it was only 9-10 volts when powering up. Still enough to turn the starter fine, oddly enough. So, I charged it to over 14v. First thing I noticed was that the v-boost servo was snappy, like it should be. Then I plugged in the pump and powered the bike on...I heard the pump start doing it's thing, and promptly shut the bike off.

So, I have ordered one of these:



I hate the weight of a battery like this, but I need something reliable with a lot of reserve capacity for the testing I need to do. I was having trouble with the charging system before the bike sat, and somewhere I have a new rectifier and stator to install. So, this is a solid battery for testing, and I shouldn't have to worry about being stranded on the road. Later, once everything is dialed in, I will go back to a lighter unit. I got this one for $126 shipped new, off of eBay...that seemed a good deal and it should be here early next week.

Now, on to the tank. Well, I read the suggestions, and another thread from Fire-medic. My initial idea was also to cut the neck of the tank, so I can get that cap off as unmolested as possible. I figured I could then clean the tank, and have a bung welded on that used a cap that did not require a key. That would be a big benefit, imo. Now, I do have this, also:



This used tank is in great shape internally. It could use a little touch up on the paint, but inside it is great. So, I may use this tank for now, once I get that cap situation squared away on the other one. This tank has also been in my possession for close to 20 years, I guess.

So, some progress, coming a little at a time. My next step is probably to pull the existing tank.

 

[Fire-medic]

Soak the neck and gas cap upside down in acetone and I bet the key will work.

 

[Warp12]

Soak the neck and gas cap upside down in acetone and I bet the key will work.

What should I expect as far as paint peeling and mess with the cap and neck?

 

[Fire-medic]

I don't know how-resistant to the acetone the paint is. If it lifts, some sanding and spot-painting at the neck and the gas cap would be necessary. Your automotive touch-up paint at your local parts store should suffice for a gloss black enamel. The gas cap is more-of a satin or flat finish.

If you found my other gas cap posts, and some of others, you see what's involved in disassembly re-assembly of the gas cap spring-loaded pawls which hold the gas cap in-place. It's not too-complicated, and you do not need to disassemble the pins in the lockset. Finding an extended #2 phillips screwdriver to reach the underside of the gas cap through the fuel sender hole may be the biggest challenge. An 18" reach should do it.

 

[Warp12]

Been busy working in the garage, but no time to work on the bike. Hopefully by the weekend! I did get the Odyssey battery (odd note, there was zero padding for this battery...literally the box was exactly the size of the battery...how do they not crack in shipping??), but I am not messing with that until I remove the fuel tank and all of that mess.



As a side note, I was browsing the web to see if there were still any new V-Max exhaust options. I have a Hindle on mine, which I love. It makes great power, and sounds excellent, too. But I know there used to be some other options, like UFO, Mark's, etc...even the old Kerker?

Anyway, I went to the Hindle link for the V-Max 1200 exhaust...and there is a picture of my bike. As I recall, I got this exhaust through help from Brock's and Hindle. Both were great to work with.

From the site:



https://www.hindle.com/Yamaha-Vmax-1200-full-system
As I also recall, the bike made near 120 hp on the dyno with this system. I think it was around a 10 hp peak increase, but really strong where the stock system was falling off up top. Also much lighter. I assume they still make it? The only think I was sort of considering was a louder muffler, and maybe the Stage 7 at some point, just to use it at the track with oxygenated race fuel (I have a spare set of carbs for that, and most of the parts...somewhere).

 

[Warp12]

Ok, the garage took more work than I thought. But it was worth it, and I can get some stuff done, now.

Before:

After:

The parts I ordered came from Ronayers. There wasn't any delay, either. Anyway, I went ahead and got the fuel tank out of there today.



It took me maybe 1.5 hours to remove everything, taking my time. Not too bad, and only one severe thumb smashing in the process. Now I will decide how I am going to approach the fuel tank/cap issue. It still has quite a bit of fuel in it, surprisingly. It doesn't exactly smell right, though.

 

[Aquamax]

Man, I sure love that '89 color combination. I would truly love to find an unmolested bike from that year. Your bike year was a one-off year, as I'm sure you probably know.
Anyway...by now the gas has turned to varnish, so punch a hole into the bottom of the tank. A punch will not make sparks. Then punch the hole bigger if it's not draining fast enough. Then let it air out a couple days in the sun before trying to saw off the filler neck.

BTW, what is the bike/frame thing you have against the wall in your #2 post from yesterday?

And if you need help with the gas cap itself; (10) Gas Cap Manual / Tutorial for Dry Rotted or Cracked Gas Cap Seals | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

 

[Warp12]

Man, I sure love that '89 color combination. I would truly love to find an unmolested bike from that year. Your bike year was a one-off year, as I'm sure you probably know.
Anyway...by now the gas has turned to varnish, so punch a hole into the bottom of the tank. A punch will not make sparks. Then punch the hole bigger if it's not draining fast enough. Then let it air out a couple days in the sun before trying to saw off the filler neck.

BTW, what is the bike/frame thing you have against the wall in your #2 post from yesterday?

And if you need help with the gas cap itself; (10) Gas Cap Manual / Tutorial for Dry Rotted or Cracked Gas Cap Seals | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

That bike/frame is an old project. It's a ZX-14 with a bored/stroked 1534cc street/race motor. Cams, porting, 15:1 compression..240 wheel setup, extended arm...etc.



It was going to be set up for E85 fuel, for street use. Not sure what I'm going to do with that one at this point. We kind of moved on.

 

[Warp12]

Man, I sure love that '89 color combination. I would truly love to find an unmolested bike from that year. Your bike year was a one-off year, as I'm sure you probably know.

Actually I am not too familiar with the color combinations. I think the '88 is similar? I am not really enamored of it compared to the purple '85. That is my favorite.

I have parts to switch this one over to a different scheme. But it is so original I have wondered whether I should get a second project bike for that. I have considered building one from the frame up.

 

[Aquamax]

Actually I am not too familiar with the color combinations. I think the '88 is similar? I am not really enamored of it compared to the purple '85. That is my favorite.

You know...you may be right, that color combination might actually be two years. Looking at 88's & 89's on the internet, there are sure a lot of 88's that have that same color combo, so maybe so? This whole time I had thought it was one year only.

Love the ZX14 project you have, that looks like it would be a hoot!

 

[Fire-medic]

punch a hole into the bottom of the tank. A punch will not make sparks. Then punch the hole bigger if it's not draining fast enough. Then let it air out a couple days in the sun before trying to saw off the filler neck.

Then you will have three holes in the bottom of the gas tank. One for the fuel sender, one for the tank to drain, and one from your punch-work.

I've done the 'saw-off the filler neck,' but if you use a long phillips, you can reach the two screws holding the gas cap together, remove those, and then when the cap comes-apart, retrieve the pieces. That, or soak the gas tank neck upside-down in a good solvent to dissolve the gum holding the retaining 'ears' of the gas cap from retracting as you use the key.

 

[Warp12]

Well, I can't make out any screws on the underside of the cap. I do see gunk/corrosion/sludge...I guess that is what it is. There was sludge in the bottom of the tank that covered the hole when I removed the drain bolt.

 

[Aquamax]

Then you will have three holes in the bottom of the gas tank. One for the fuel sender, one for the tank to drain, and one from your punch-work.

Oh, you are quite right!

Warp12, forget anything I said previously. I was obviously having a total brain fart moment.