What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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How large is the box? The smaller the better? Very similar to the first progressive we used. Do you have any ideas about future box's? I think the last box we used had one knob for adjusting time to full power (ramp time) and another for percentage of starting power.

Sean
 
Put on two COP'S and started it up to. White smoke from right pipe and at the pipe exit from cylinder 1. I'll change the oil and hope for the best tonight. Hopefully I won't have to rebuild the whole motor when my transmission comes back...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
How large is the box? The smaller the better? Very similar to the first progressive we used. Do you have any ideas about future box's? I think the last box we used had one knob for adjusting time to full power (ramp time) and another for percentage of starting power.

Sean

It's 5x2x2, and there is still plenty of room. I have another box that is considerably smaller (2x3x1). I plan on halving the size of the circuit board by using two waferboards.

The plan for now is to get it on the bike and see how well it does, if it doesn't, I might be calling you about a new engine :). Future boxes will have the timers and ramping along with the power adjustment, like other controllers. I'm looking at timing circuits and processors now.
 
Isn't white smoke typically water into the combustion chamber, i.e., a blown head gasket? Changing the oil is not the prescriptive remedy there. Good luck w/the diagnosis, it sounds like you have some invasive work on the engine ahead of you.

Put on two COP'S and started it up to. White smoke from right pipe and at the pipe exit from cylinder 1. I'll change the oil and hope for the best tonight. Hopefully I won't have to rebuild the whole motor when my transmission comes back...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Nothing to the vmax but I did tear the cylinder head off my GS550 motor, strip it, and box it up for resale. Got a quote from usps of nearly $80 to ship it to Toronto from Pittsburgh. Seems high to me? Box weighs 22 lbs. 17"x13"x6". I shipped a GS seat which was much larger but, lighter, to Dublin for much less than that.
 
Isn't white smoke typically water into the combustion chamber, i.e., a blown head gasket? Changing the oil is not the prescriptive remedy there. Good luck w/the diagnosis, it sounds like you have some invasive work on the engine ahead of you.

Yeah, I was thinking head gasket. It never blew white smoke until last night when I got spark on cylinder 1. Makes me wonder if just that part of the gasket is bad. I also thought it was strange that the #1 pipe was smoking coming off the head, but the only smoke coming out the end of a pipe was on the right. Might be ordering even more gaskets from Sean...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Nothing to the vmax but I did tear the cylinder head off my GS550 motor, strip it, and box it up for resale. Got a quote from usps of nearly $80 to ship it to Toronto from Pittsburgh. Seems high to me? Box weighs 22 lbs. 17"x13"x6". I shipped a GS seat which was much larger but, lighter, to Dublin for much less than that.

might be cheaper to get the quote online and do free pickup?

that seems a bit high.
 
It was a few $$s cheaper online. Not much. I checked UPS. It was around $45. Quite a bit of savings there. I was surprised by that!

Awhile ago (1 yr) I was looking to freight ship an engine (about 250 lbs) about 2K mi & asked UPS for a quote, they quoted me ~$750 if I delivered it to their motor freight terminal on a pallet. That was for terminal to terminal, no delivery or pickup. I made the person double-check the cost, I couldn't believe it! FedEx did the same arrangement for <$300 insured.
 
We ship a lot of test equipment all over the country and consistently get screwed by UPS when were forced to use them due to "circumstances", they lose ****, don't show up and are really good at merely driving by a job site, and when they don't see a brick and mortar building with a big address sign, even tho the address is correct, they'll honk the horn once and haul *** if someone doesn't come screaming and waving for them in a few seconds, delaying delivery yet another day.

FedEx goes beyond the call of duty in my book. They'll deliver that **** to an empty patch of dirt in the west Texas oil fields if you give em the right info, and actually use the contact info they have to get it right.

Rates are high everywhere, I shipped some Doble equipment weighing about 200 lbs overnight from salt lake to little rock and it was $1000, I think normal ground delivery for that was going to be about $250 or so.
 
New progressive 444shocks, with the IAS valves. Race tech springs with IAS valves in the front end. Spring preload adjusters from Sean Morley. Morleys air box and jet kit. Brakes with stainless lines. Cut the seat down and added a gel pad. Led everything. T Boost.
 
Finished up the forks, front brake calipers, master, brake & rotor rebuild/install project. Course it started snowing like a big dog so now I can't go out to test the final product! :bang head:

55? on Monday tho....that'll work! :clapping:
 
Finished up the forks, front brake calipers, master, brake & rotor rebuild/install project. Course it started snowing like a big dog so now I can't go out to test the final product! :bang head:

55? on Monday tho....that'll work! :clapping:

hey i never did get a chance to see a pic of your new max. care to share?
 
Had some flickering from my headlight, & the high beam indicator began doing it as-well, even-though the switch was on "low." I took-off the bezel to check for a shorting wire, or a connection to the 3-connector headlight bulb being bad, & opened the left handlebar switch, to determine if there was any arcing, shorting, or other problem (I used Ninjaneer's "how-to, thanks!). Nothing needed repair. I went out for a ride this evening & saw the high-beam indicator come-on w/the switch on "low," & stay-on. I then saw that my bulb had permanently "signed-off-duty," so I made my way home carefully, and sure-enough, blown on both high & low.

It was a 55/100 watt bulb, I had a spare replacement on-hand, a 55/60 watt, which I installed. Now i have lights again. I didn't get a chance to test it on the hiway, but i saw the high-beam indicator isn't flickering on any more, so I hope it was just a failing bulb.

The charging system is in good shape, replaced the stator, R/R, battery, & re-wired the stator plug during this riding season, so hopefully, I can use the headlight w/o worries.

Ayone know if having the high-beam indicator coming-on & staying-on in the switch "low-beam" position is a factory indicator of a blown bulb? I don't recall seeing anything like that in the manual. I am guessing that the resistance of the intact & functional headlight filament must present a specific load on the circuit, and that w/o it, the high-beam indicator stays-on?

I recall reading how on old Ducatis, the headlight indicator bulb had to be intact, & w/o it, the ignition system would not work! That was a topic of one of Gordon Jenning's columns for "Cycle," many years ago.

12-3-12: Update! The new bulb put "ev'rything right in the world," at least the world according to my headlight! That problem solved.

I have a different design for the headlight that I have gotten most of the parts for, I want to try it sometime soon. I already slipped-on the 'ears' for the fork tubes, rubber-insulated, to accept the new headlight I have planned, & have acquired. I just have to decide, "do I just want to rely on the method of attachment of the headlight to the "ears" to hold the up-down adjustment or do I want to fabricate some adjustible bracket for the headlight tilt?" I have also acquired additional lighting capacity but haven't finalized the method of mounting...
 
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When I originally installed a headlight override switch, I did it by switching the black ground wire. This did the trick, but I noticed the high beam indicator was always on, regardless of the headlight hi/low switch position.
Now I have the low-beam wire switched, and the indicator light is off, but comes on as designed when the high beam is activated. This tells me that you may have a grounding issue with your headlight wiring.
Cheers!
 
I didn't like the way nitrous limiter v1.0 was behaving. So I got a different idea, and started working on 2.0's circuit board.
As you can see, it will be about a third of the size of v1.0. The board is only 1.75" x 1.75"

newboard.jpg
 
Had my favorite mechanic pick up the Max today. Just can't leave it alone!

http://www.thunderincycles.com/

Header going out for black powder coat and can polishing, he's doing custom fork brace, black rear progressives, carb sync (but I think they're fine), new Interstate battery, plugs, fuel filter and I told him to check the timing, been starting kinda' funny sometimes.

Ears open for anything else while it's there, thoughts appreciated!
 

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