What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Picked up my wheel (paid too much, but I didn't have to spend any time in the million degree garage) and reinstalled it. I like the look. Now I gotta either search for a kosman 18" rear or save and save for carozzerias...

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Tightened my steering head nut. We'll see if that's the last step in fixing my clunk. Also my speedo sensor needs realigned now, but that should be pretty easy.
 
I noticed my v-boost was cycling with the key turned on, but not opening till almost red line. I unplugged it and went for a ride with the boost open all the time.She pulled stronger in every gear. Idle is wild and she is erratic, cold at low speed. I'm going with an on off switch
for V-boost.
Steve-o
 
I would install my oil pressure kit from cycle one off but its been almost 3 weeks & still has not arrived even tho he was paid :-(
 
Found Seans clear clutch cover & gasket set underneath the Barnett clutch box I had set aside in another box I had put aside for when it all came in. Kicked myself twice for not remembering both had already came in to change it out . :rofl_200:

Senility may be setting in.
 

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Bought and installed a "wolo" horn. looks like a Stribel ( like I have on the Valkyrie. Made a little stainless steel mounting bracket and used the stock horn wires with an 8" extension. It's mounted down by the right hyway footrest.
It so so much louder thanthe stock horn----- sounds better than most car horns.

Should have done this years ago!!!

Lew
 
Changed the LED instrument from green to blue, put another blue LED in my high beam indicator and a green LED in the neutral indicator. I installed 2 LED 1157's for the tail/brake I got at O'Reily's. They are not what I thought they would be. 1 they only light a fairly narrow degree. 2 they are not as bright as the incandescent. I will end up getting rid of these. I have heard, even though the tail light is red, you must use red LED's or it will appear clear (?) I don't know, just happened to get red so I don't know.
 
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=26827&highlight=wolo

People actually hear that horn, instead of ignoring you.


Bought and installed a "wolo" horn. looks like a Stribel ( like I have on the Valkyrie. Made a little stainless steel mounting bracket and used the stock horn wires with an 8" extension. It's mounted down by the right hyway footrest.
It so so much louder thanthe stock horn----- sounds better than most car horns.

Should have done this years ago!!!

Lew
 

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Changed the LED instrument from green to blue, put another blue LED in my high beam indicator and a green LED in the neutral indicator. I installed 2 LED 1157's for the tail/brake I got at O'Reily's. They are not what I thought they would be. 1 they only light a fairly narrow degree. 2 they are not as bright as the incandescent. I will end up getting rid of these. I have heard, even though the tail light is red, you must use red LED's or it will appear clear (?) I don't know, just happened to get red so I don't know.

I use the 1157 tower leds from ddmtuning in my tail light. I got white ones. They're great. They cost more than auto parts stores but are really bright.

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Thìnk I'll rewire the horn using the supplied relay and get some 16 gage wire and a 20 amp inline fuse. I did it this way on my Valkyrie and the horn is louder( actually----painfully loud).

Lew
 
Yes, you have to use the relay and proper gauge wire. If you don't you could burn-up the compressor. It will be much-louder w/the relay and correct sized wire!:biglaugh:

I bought a second horn I liked the first so-much, to wire-into my FZR1000 but haven't gotten around to doing it. The dealer did offer an inexpensive wire kit for <$10 from WOLO or Steibel, not sure which, but it was everything I needed to make the connections to the remote location I chose. And fused properly.

I did find a crimped connection to the original OEM horn had broken strands to where only a few remained intact. It was actually just-under the insulation next-to the spade terminal, so a casual glance it appeared ok, but if you grabbed the connection, you could feel there wasn't much intact under the insulation, fixed by cutting it back about an inch, and soldered a new connector.


Thìnk I'll rewire the horn using the supplied relay and get some 16 gage wire and a 20 amp inline fuse. I did it this way on my Valkyrie and the horn is louder( actually----painfully loud).

Lew
 
I noticed my v-boost was cycling with the key turned on, but not opening till almost red line. I unplugged it and went for a ride with the boost open all the time.She pulled stronger in every gear. Idle is wild and she is erratic, cold at low speed. I'm going with an on off switch
for V-boost.
Steve-o

thats what i did for a while, had to set idle to about 1400 rpms to get it to stabilize enough where it didn't sound like she'd die at idle.
 
Wasn't today but Tuesday I stripped the flaking clear off of my rear wheel (18"x6" Kosman) and cleaned it up, came out pretty nice I think... I'm going to enter it in a local bike show this weekend, don't got a ton of bling so probably won't win anything but I've never entered anything of mine into a show before so I'll give it a shot..

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Where did you get that exhaust?
 
Wired in the horn correctly with the supplied relay. Now to take the bike and wakeup some texting,shaving, make-up applying, eating, cigarrette dropping, map reading, book reading,cell phone talking, distracted driver

Lew
 
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Finished off my rearset hangers, then took her for a spin to watch another cruise ship depart
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I must remind myself to repaint those....
%2525255BUNSET%2525255D-001.jpg
 
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