Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
Parked it for winter.... At least it ran to storage area this time.
Where/how do you get adjustable levers to run with our stock master cylinder? My understanding was needed the busa cylinders to get adjustables?
As always, appreciate it EricThese are the ones that I bought....BUT....I ran into a problem with the 2nd set that I bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251006820844?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
First set....everything was great. Right before summer, the bike fell off the lift, and so broke the clutch lever so I ordered a 2nd pair. Shortly after that.....my clutch went out. No big deal.....changed it. Ive done it before.....not an issue. After that, after about an hour....my clutch would start slipping in the lower gears.....and get worse from there. Figured that it was a clogged return hole in the MC....but still the same issue.
So the MC started looking grungy....so changed it to a new one, and all brand new clutch fluid. Ran into the SAME issue. I started doing some investigating. The brand new MC came with a new brass swivel to fit into the stock lever. The whole in it was 7.95 mm deep. The swivel that was INPLACE on the lever had a whole of 6.5 mm deep. So the adjustable lever was compressing the pushrod into the MC, effectively making the clutch slip.
Instead of drilling the whole deeper in the adjustable lever, Sean gave me the idea just to take 2 mm off of the end of the MC pushrod.
Unfortunately ive been gone at work for a couple of weeks, so I havent had the opportunity to try it out.
I would say HOLD OFF on the levers until I get home, and do that, and make certain that it works. once I got everything figured out, I figured that I would do a PSA write-up with pics, incase someone else has the same issue.
As always, appreciate it Eric
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Sweet. Saved the link. But going to wait for Erics experience on the current ones they are shipping before dumping money down the drain.Same ones and same company but $9.00 cheaper- You can ask for any color change and they will accommodate.
Just use your stock pin in the clutch handle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-...hash=item3a9768f8ab:m:mlC3znugBWAiW1Dv_nlk55Q
That's a clean-lookin' ride BorgBiker. I like the minimally-modded bikes the best, by that I refer to the external appearance. The hairy ones are entertaining, but I just like the original appearance, I think it's timeless. You can know nothing of motorcycles, but when you see this in-person, you just know what it's designed to do. Kinda like this American classic one-off, anyone know it's famous name w/o googling it? I've seen it in-person, and it's no doubt what its purpose is.
The wheels set it off nicely. Sean could use it for an ad!
I have the fzr 1000/yzf 750 6 pot calipers. I currently run them with the stock master cylinder, wavey rotors, steel braided lines stock length. They stop amazingly well. I also have adjustable levers.
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Are your front rotors stock 1993+ diameter?
I just got some 6-pot Sumitomos from a 1997 YZF750R. They are being shipped. Hopefully it is direct bolt-up because my rotors are new stock diameter and weren't exactly cheap.
Thanks.
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Thanks Traumahawk. I am actually doing a slightly different rear upgrade. I am going to a 298mm rear (to match the front) and an R1 caliper. I am currently waiting on the new brake stay to be machined but have everything else (attached photo). Hopefully, this makes the rear brake a little less wooden. Thanks again.
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That will be a good looking set up. Let me know how it works out. Ive thought about getting rid of the stock rear caliper, and putting a 6 pot caliper to the rear (to match the front)....but I dont know if that will be "too much"....you know?
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