What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Didnt do a damn thing to the bike today, but at the work christmas party i got to go for a ride in a 700 hp turbo ls v8 powered rx7! No pics since my phone was dead but holy hell... that thing HAULED ASS!!! Runs 9.6's with race gas/map... fastest car ive ever ridden in!
 
Finally put the Japanese "Godzilla" on the rear fender.
The English version was on there 20+ years, till the bike was painted this year..
 

Attachments

  • 12341424_896761153764648_4995270329465035327_n.jpg
    12341424_896761153764648_4995270329465035327_n.jpg
    29.1 KB
  • 11148435_896761530431277_5556768137358897379_n.jpg
    11148435_896761530431277_5556768137358897379_n.jpg
    66 KB
Finally got my 298mm rotor, my Exactrep caliper mount and my R1 caliper mounted.

Still waiting on the powdercoat guy for my 6-pot Sumitomos up front.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451200764.116771.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451200789.066063.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451200804.882197.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Put on new rear signal lite. They wanted $30 for a used original one on Ebay, bought 2 of them from china for $16 bucks & free shipping, LOL.
 
Got this lower steering head bearing race out. looks like this is why I had a 120 mph wobble. Bikes an '06 with 20k miles, no rust but bad pitting and roller lines in races.
 

Attachments

  • bearinf race.jpg
    bearinf race.jpg
    30 KB
Grind some 'eyebrows' in the steering head body so you can knock out the outer race more-easily, next time, and you don't have to weld nubs on it or cut it.

Got this lower steering head bearing race out. looks like this is why I had a 120 mph wobble. Bikes an '06 with 20k miles, no rust but bad pitting and roller lines in races.
 
Picked up a cheap pair of billet swingarm spools with 6 mm bolts that were supposedly for the VMAX. Turns out they are a "universal" item. I wasn't going to drill and tap the swingarm and those are some dinky bolts, so I came up with a quick fix using some 5/16" diameter pit pins. Had to drill out the spools and then used .032 safety wire to keep everything snug:

s5h0ky.jpg


25zsl.jpg


I will be getting another pair in anodized gold with an 8 mm I.D. and run some all-thread straight through the rear axle with either hair pin cotters for quick removal or stainless Nylocks to cinch up the spools. I plan on using jack stands to support the spools rather than a wheel lift stand, but since you can't remove the rear wheel as these run through the axle, the chrome spools will be re-tasked to mount on the lower shock bolts for tire changes/pulling the rim. Two different support/lifting options...

Once I get it all set up, I'll post it in the Fabrication, CNC & Projects section.
 
Last edited:
FYI, I offer stainless versions that simply thread on in place of the shock nuts. Not cheap like the ebay crap though.
 

Attachments

  • Stainless Swingarm Spools.jpg
    Stainless Swingarm Spools.jpg
    46.1 KB
FYI, I offer stainless versions that simply thread on in place of the shock nuts. Not cheap like the ebay crap though.

Yep, saw your post about them from November 2012 while looking for mounting methods -- should have checked with you first :(
 
No problem. What I need to do is come up with a better mounting system for the left side so we can remove larger wheel/tire combo's that require removing the diff. Not a lot of options there though.
 
In the business that has been my life lately, I've found the time to pull off all the lighting from the front, then mounted the bracket, and mocked up the Fatwing from Roger. Damn that man does good work. Ordered new rubber for the front and back. I'm going with Michelin Commander II's in stock size up front and the 170/80 out back. It's long overdue. The front is cupping pretty bad and the back Metzler is pretty square. Tons of tread, but square enough to start to kick out the back end during some good cornering.

Only thing I had to do was open the headlight hole a tad to fit the new housing. I've done away with the split 6" HID's (they're going to be the Dodge's new driving lights, going to mount them in the old turn signal location) and running a triple LED unit that is bright as hell along with equally bright 2", LED driving lights.

Not that I really need much light in the summer, but it does get dark, at night, in the fall.

Next step I'll be doing this weekend is fabricating/mounting the braces for the saddlebags. One side will house the nitrous bottle, nitrous controller, and CO2 tank for the air shifter. The other side, the usual 1st aide kit, tools, etc.

Then a quick an easy footpeg swap for me and swap out the old passenger pegs for floorboards, for her.

I'll post pictures, along the way.

The last things on the winter's mod list is to pull the tail section, build a more comfortable seat and finish the mini back rest, then paint everything and mount it up for good.
 
KJ That's Awesome.

Strafer was missing the last time I took her out. I'd replaced the battery and disconnected the rear coils plug wires so they were suspect. remade those connections. The right rear plug was darker than the rest which told me that it was intermittently firing, so I replaced the plugs. Drained the carbs but they were perfectly clean. Bike ran great after all of this. If it happens again I'll replace the plug wires as they show some corrosion.

The APEX Battery (APX12220) you all suggested was an easy install, works perfect and was only
$45.97 shipped... Kawasaki green though?????????????
 
KJ That's Awesome.

Strafer was missing the last time I took her out. I'd replaced the battery and disconnected the rear coils plug wires so they were suspect. remade those connections. The right rear plug was darker than the rest which told me that it was intermittently firing, so I replaced the plugs. Drained the carbs but they were perfectly clean. Bike ran great after all of this. If it happens again I'll replace the plug wires as they show some corrosion.

The APEX Battery (APX12220) you all suggested was an easy install, works perfect and was only
$45.97 shipped... Kawasaki green though?????????????
They make a yellow one I have with a few less cca's--370
 
It's been awhile. Good to see you around KJ.

Thank you, its good to have some time again.

The right rear plug was darker than the rest which told me that it was intermittently firing, so I replaced the plugs.

Rides must be linked, I was having right rear cyl issues too. Mine was due to I was putting off carb maint for a bit too long, so they needed a good scrubbing. :rofl_200:
 
Are your front rotors stock 1993+ diameter?

I just got some 6-pot Sumitomos from a 1997 YZF750R. They are being shipped. Hopefully it is direct bolt-up because my rotors are new stock diameter and weren't exactly cheap.

Thanks.

View attachment 51419


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got my calipers rebuilt and powdercoated.
 

Attachments

  • Caliper 1.jpg
    Caliper 1.jpg
    68.8 KB
  • Caliper 2.jpg
    Caliper 2.jpg
    65.2 KB
Back
Top