What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[sdt354]

:rofl_200:
I hear ya, Steve. It's only 11 a.m. here, and I'm set to take my pre-nap (usually about an hour)
Following that, typically I put in a couple hours in the workshop, then it's off to the couch for my regular nap, which lasts up to three hours.
sucks getting old :damn angry:
Cheers!

Miles, We'll just call it a power nap, or beauty sleep? Already old, now to get lecherous.
You get old and get great ideas, but no desire to really do them...lol

 

[Nubicon]

Technically it isn't "today", but I'm fairly happy with my progress so far.

The day it came home. It didn't make it two days with that windshield and sissy bar on it, emergency wrenching was required!

Bought a used and corroded grab bar from Ebay. Spent hours and hours sanding it smooth and then hit it with metal polish. Picked up a Hindle 4 into 1 exhaust from Sean Morley. And some turn signals from UFO.

Tyga carbon fiber faux tank. 2 pounds lighter than the stock one.

Many more hours of sanding and metal polishing got the corrosion and milky clearcoat off the scoops (and I probably have tennis elbow now!)

Another set of UFO signals for the front. Also installed a Superbike handle bar, again courtesy of Mr. Morley (unbelievable change to the feel of the bike, the stock bars were terrible). This is as it sits right now...very dusty and dirty!

Plans for the immediate future include fixing that god awful tail light with...something. Also going to pick up a clear clutch cover and Barnett plate for a little bling. The front fork will be getting a rebuild (blown seal) and some much heavier springs in order to hold up my fat ass! And probably a 7" TruckLite phase 7 LED head light before riding season is in full swing. Wish me luck, I'm gonna need it.

 

[falling]

Finished up my driver footpegs. They are a little long now, but I designed in the capacity to shorten them in 7.4mm increments until they don't scrape.

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[Miles Long]

Finished up my driver footpegs. They are a little long now, but I designed in the capacity to shorten them in 7.4mm increments until they don't scrape.

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Superb workmanship, out-of-the-box design and implementation. Kudos to you, Mr. Falling! Love the "repurposing" of the craftsman wrenchunk:
I relocated my driver's pegs forward as well, and lengthened the brake and shifter arms, but used a different approach than yours.
HUGE difference in comfort level now. Much less leg cramping.
Groovy work!

 

[PMaxx]

Painted my lower forks, and then promptly spilled a single droplet of brake fluid on them while bleeding the brakes...will have to sand that out and do a touch-up

 

[Zeus36]

Put on a Shinko Tourmaster 170 on the rear @ 38 psi. It stopped my front end wobble that used to start at 107 MPH.

 

[ga_max]

Changed oil and filter. Checked air pressure. Installed Autometer digital tach and shift light :eusa_dance:, tested everything and all works well.

 

[eVMAX]

Changed oil and filter. Checked air pressure. Installed Autometer digital tach and shift light :eusa_dance:, tested everything and all works well.

Looks good! Where did you get the tank pad if you don't mind me asking? Thanks!

 

[ga_max]

I got it from the 'Motorcycle Superstore' but it looks like they changes the style. I got it a few years ago.

https://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/22860/i/keiti-yamaha-tank-pad

 

[DMAN999]

ga_max,
Any chance you can do a How-To for the installation of that Autometer digital tach and shift light ?

 

[ga_max]

Hi Dennis,

It was very easy. On the back of the stock tack you have 3 wires, black (ground), brown (power) and grey (ignition). The Autometer also has 3 wires, black (ground), red (power), green (ignition). I shrink wrapped about 18 inches of the wiring and added an inline 4amp fuse. Then I soldered on small rings to the wires, put the wires over the studs on the tack (after cleaning them with contact cleaner) and closed it up. The Autometer can be set for our ignition (false fire). Amazingly enough it worked right away. BTW I got the small rings for the wires and the inline fuse at Radio Shack since the ones at the auto parts store were too big.

Doug

 

[PMaxx]

Swapped out my rusty fuel tank...found that the fuel filter was 50% full of rusty gunk. Drained the carbs and got some rusty fuel out. I knew I wasn't getting the best mileage, but gunky carbs probably don't help. Still seems to run and idle alright.
Since winter I've:
-rebuilt clutch master cylinder
-bled front brakes
-bike had bad corrosion from being exposed to sea air. I sanded down and painted 95% of the bike
-Installed a new superbike bar and Iso grips from Morleys Muscle.

 

[madmax69]

Hi Dennis,

It was very easy. On the back of the stock tack you have 3 wires, black (ground), brown (power) and grey (ignition). The Autometer also has 3 wires, black (ground), red (power), green (ignition). I shrink wrapped about 18 inches of the wiring and added an inline 4amp fuse. Then I soldered on small rings to the wires, put the wires over the studs on the tack (after cleaning them with contact cleaner) and closed it up. The Autometer can be set for our ignition (false fire). Amazingly enough it worked right away. BTW I got the small rings for the wires and the inline fuse at Radio Shack since the ones at the auto parts store were too big.

Doug

Looks great! Nice and clean....do you still have part number or link for the gauge/light?

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[ga_max]

Here's the link for the Autometer Tach/Shift light.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/5344/10002/-1

 

[Specs95t]

Installed ss brake lines for fronts and rear caliper. Big difference in the feel - great on front, really surprising on rear. The rear feels like it has some stopping power now...

I took it around the block after the bleeding process. Surprisingly, the fronts bled faster than the rear...

I now have the front wheel cocked to the left, brake master as high as it can go and the brake lever lashed down for an overnight "final" squeeze....


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[Twotimer56]

Got my new carb sync tool and sync my carbs,the bike was idling above 1500 reverend do the idle adjustmant screw was removed.Now it idles nicely at 1000 rev but what do you know,it started smoking.And now I'M trying to figure it out why there is always something to do.

 

[blaxmax]

Got my new carb sync tool and sync my carbs,the bike was idling above 1500 reverend do the idle adjustmant screw was removed.Now it idles nicely at 1000 rev but what do you know,it started smoking.And now I'M trying to figure it out why there is always something to do.

Color of smoke? Where is it coming from- end of tail pipe? Mileage?

 

[redbaron13]

noticed some popping and popping and banging on acceleration, so I replaced the fuel filter, checked all the lines, when the bike was warmed up to about 2/3 on the temp gage, no problem. I synched the carbs today and left it running when i went in to get my helmet and the engine died. I pulled off the seat, air cleaner box, faux cover and the first thing I noticed was there was no gas in the gas lines, they had run bone dry. I turned the key several times and the pump charged the gas line, it cranked up and I am still getting bubbles in the fuel.


Looks like I need a fuel pump, anyone got any ideas?

Mike

 

[redbaron13]

got voltage, good fuse, the pump thunks when it runs but is not delivering full fuel flow, fuel and bubbles

 

[redbaron13]

got the banging and popping until the line was full enough to run the bike