What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
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JOHN PETERSON
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Looks great. Where'd ya get the windshield, the scoops and the number 4 for the engine
Scoops are just stock one's I painted all the other parts are off parts bikes that I have bought
Kyle, the paint reminds me of early Shelby GT 350's. How's your Mustang doing these days? Done anything to the LUV?
Mustang is doing fine although it does not get drove a whole lot. I prefer to drive the Luv truck. I got the bed of the Luv painted now just need to pull it off so I can do the front half. I am fixing to pull the motor back out. I just ordered some new wiesco pistons and I ordered a fiberglass L88 hood for it. Also built me a Luv bench with working lights.
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![Bovemanx Motorcycle Phone Mount Holder, [150mph Wind Anti-Shake][7.2inch Big Phone Friendly] Bike Phone Holder, Motorcycle Handlebar Cell Phone Clamp, Compatible with iPhone 16 Pro Max Smartphones](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51F+1sontPL._SL500_.jpg)
That bench is cool! I have a spare tailgate for my 355 GMC pick-up I could do something like that, but honestly, I have no room for it. Also aesthetically, I suspect my better-half would want something-else.
The rear rolled pan of the LUV looks good, and plans to put a set of nerf bars on it? You can inform people, "that's SCTA rules for speed record racers."
I like that riser hood, is an L88 hood a Corvette C2 427 'stinger' hood?
The Mustang is looking good! I know that's the wife's. A stock-appearing Mustang I think has good value, as by-now, they usually have been modded so-much a stock-appearing one in good shape is rare. I forget, a 302, or an inline-6? A C-4 or an manual?
The rear rolled pan of the LUV looks good, and plans to put a set of nerf bars on it? You can inform people, "that's SCTA rules for speed record racers."
I like that riser hood, is an L88 hood a Corvette C2 427 'stinger' hood?
The Mustang is looking good! I know that's the wife's. A stock-appearing Mustang I think has good value, as by-now, they usually have been modded so-much a stock-appearing one in good shape is rare. I forget, a 302, or an inline-6? A C-4 or an manual?
Thanks I built that roll pan to out of 22 gauge sheet metal and put the 39 Chevy LED taillights in place of the reflectors on the tailgate they are bright. I also have LED light strip behind the tailgate that shines thru the body line. I am not putting nerf bars on it. I am kind of keeping it old school . I am attaching a picture of an L88 hood The Mustang was originally a 6 cylinder but a friend In Florida had a trashed out v8 car . I took the 289 out of it and the complete running gear and rebuilt it all . It has a C4 in itThat bench is cool! I have a spare tailgate for my 355 GMC pick-up I could do something like that, but honestly, I have no room for it. Also aesthetically, I suspect my better-half would want something-else.
The rear rolled pan of the LUV looks good, and plans to put a set of nerf bars on it? You can inform people, "that's SCTA rules for speed record racers."
I like that riser hood, is an L88 hood a Corvette C2 427 'stinger' hood?
The Mustang is looking good! I know that's the wife's. A stock-appearing Mustang I think has good value, as by-now, they usually have been modded so-much a stock-appearing one in good shape is rare. I forget, a 302, or an inline-6? A C-4 or an manual?
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Oh, yeah, now I recall the style of hood. Yes, that should look good. On the original, was there venting in the recess? Some-sort of spring-loaded 'trap-door' to open, for airflow, or to release heat?
Here's the C2 'stinger-style' hood I was thinking-of. This car belongs to an acquaintance of mine, in the Ft. Lauderdale area, who owns a bodyshop, he does good work. Guys with vintage Corvettes pay him tens-of thousands of $ to rebuild their cars. The paint on this one, his personal car, is > 10 years-old. At a show where Dave MClellan, of Corvette engineering fame, was doing the judging, MClellan gave it 'best of show.'
Here's the C2 'stinger-style' hood I was thinking-of. This car belongs to an acquaintance of mine, in the Ft. Lauderdale area, who owns a bodyshop, he does good work. Guys with vintage Corvettes pay him tens-of thousands of $ to rebuild their cars. The paint on this one, his personal car, is > 10 years-old. At a show where Dave MClellan, of Corvette engineering fame, was doing the judging, MClellan gave it 'best of show.'
Nice Vette ! The original is just open in the back to let the heat out . I cant wait to get it & then hopefully can paint it soon. I have to put a new core support in it first as the one in it is bent from the previous owner . I am going to make it where the whole front end will come off halfway easy since I never leave anything alone. I am sure the motor will be out a few times .
Tilt front-end, Just like the FIAT Topolino and Ford Thames Gassers of the '50's/'60's! Or the Michelotti-designed Triumph Spitfire.
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My end tables by my Luv Bench
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I like that, that's wheely good.
After purchasing 8 years ago I finally decided to start working on it. The carbs were completely frozen(slides/butterflies), but was able to remove the assembly and free up the carbs. I did break one CV slide and one of the choke valves. Removed the gas tank to start to clean 28 years of varnish and crud from the tank. After checking if the engine was frozen I hooked up some jumper cables and turned it over. So here is where it sits carbs need rebuilding (parts on order) tank need to be cleaned any tips would be appreciated planning on using the oxy-clean and thinner method. Waiting for new battery. Still need to tackle headlight and horn that don't work and a ground problem at the left rear turn signal. Then some new meat on the wheels would like to get some radials, but having a hard time finding any that I like, I would like to keep the stock look. I am not looking to make some radical street bike I can carve up canyon roads balls out, just a nice handling bike that has enough grunt if I need to get past someone on a Hardly or worse some crotch rocket haha. Sorry this post has kinda turned into a blog about my thirty year old build.
Use the 'search' function and you will probably locate dozens of threads on almost any topic you can come-up with. Where are you located? Adding that below your screen name may help with local assistance for parts or for work.
Oxy-Clean & vinegar, a new one to-me. I haven't looked online about it. I've used cleaning vinegar, alone, you can get it in many different %'s. I used 6% amd was satisfied w/the time it took. Be sure to remove the reserve sending unit before using the vinegar. I made a steel plate smeared with a thin film of room-temperature vulcanizing compound, to blank-off the sending unit hole. I filled the tank inside a plastic tub, in-case of any leaks.
As-long as it's been sitting, I'd remove the spark plugs and put a few good spritzes of a good penetrating oil into the spark plug holes, and then turn it over by hand a few times to distribute it, you coud have gummed-up piston rings, and the penetrating oil will help w/that. Then re-install the spark plugs. Turning it over by-hand every day will help to put the penetrating oil onto the rings and the cyl walls.
I haven't looked online recently, I doubt you'll find any V-rated motorcycle radials for the rear in the stock wheel size; there are scooter radials but not V-rated. I wouldn't be mixing brands of radial tires. Design and construction, and rubber composition varies among manufacturers. For the rear, you're likely going to have-to buy a converted VMax wheel which uses the VMax center spline shaft drive, to either a 17" or 18" rim, the 18" rim affects top end speeds achieved the least, as it's taller in height than the 17". The 17" has more choices of rubber, but again, be-sure to buy f & r tires from the same manufacturer, and w/the same rubber compound, if you don't, you could end-up w/an evil-handling motorcycle you will absolutely-hate. The front OEM wheel can physically-fit a narrow 18" radial, but the wheel width for radials will not be realized, which affects the cross-section contour. It needs to be at-least an inch wider to properly-fit a radial tire.
Wire grounds and connectors being oxidized/rusty are often the source of non-functioning components. A smear of di-electric grease on connectors after cleaning them helps. If that doesn't do it, time to start tracing wire continuity, proper connections (incorrent routing by a prior owner), and filaments or proper operation of the powered component.
I like lithium-ion batteries, though the AGM batteries are cheaper.
Oxy-Clean & vinegar, a new one to-me. I haven't looked online about it. I've used cleaning vinegar, alone, you can get it in many different %'s. I used 6% amd was satisfied w/the time it took. Be sure to remove the reserve sending unit before using the vinegar. I made a steel plate smeared with a thin film of room-temperature vulcanizing compound, to blank-off the sending unit hole. I filled the tank inside a plastic tub, in-case of any leaks.
As-long as it's been sitting, I'd remove the spark plugs and put a few good spritzes of a good penetrating oil into the spark plug holes, and then turn it over by hand a few times to distribute it, you coud have gummed-up piston rings, and the penetrating oil will help w/that. Then re-install the spark plugs. Turning it over by-hand every day will help to put the penetrating oil onto the rings and the cyl walls.
I haven't looked online recently, I doubt you'll find any V-rated motorcycle radials for the rear in the stock wheel size; there are scooter radials but not V-rated. I wouldn't be mixing brands of radial tires. Design and construction, and rubber composition varies among manufacturers. For the rear, you're likely going to have-to buy a converted VMax wheel which uses the VMax center spline shaft drive, to either a 17" or 18" rim, the 18" rim affects top end speeds achieved the least, as it's taller in height than the 17". The 17" has more choices of rubber, but again, be-sure to buy f & r tires from the same manufacturer, and w/the same rubber compound, if you don't, you could end-up w/an evil-handling motorcycle you will absolutely-hate. The front OEM wheel can physically-fit a narrow 18" radial, but the wheel width for radials will not be realized, which affects the cross-section contour. It needs to be at-least an inch wider to properly-fit a radial tire.
Wire grounds and connectors being oxidized/rusty are often the source of non-functioning components. A smear of di-electric grease on connectors after cleaning them helps. If that doesn't do it, time to start tracing wire continuity, proper connections (incorrent routing by a prior owner), and filaments or proper operation of the powered component.
I like lithium-ion batteries, though the AGM batteries are cheaper.
Thanks for the tips! Hope this beast doesn't kill me.
An example of using the 'search' function to find info on what you need to do, and why using vinegar can have consequences; why it needs to be removed, and the holes blanked-off. A new sending unit is actually relatively inexpensive, though I think a recent search by a member for a new one at the dealer showed they were back-ordered. As usual, one of our members had a used one for-sale. The forum is powerful for parts-sourcing. Here is some good discussion about removing a gummed-up gas cap: How to remove a jammed gas cap
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/gas-cap-stuck.41804/#post-482242
And just to tease you, a pic of a widened welded 17" X 5-1/2" wheel I get done by my friend who has made many of these for bikes.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/gas-cap-stuck.41804/#post-482242
And just to tease you, a pic of a widened welded 17" X 5-1/2" wheel I get done by my friend who has made many of these for bikes.
Maverick313
Member
Devolved a pop in the exhaust while cruising at mid rpm. I searched the forum and found some possible solutions. After I completed the shotgun procedure, I found I had a stuck float needle in the rear right carb. So maybe that was the culprit all along. But it's fixed now and running clean again. So thanks to everyone who posts the helpful tips.
Surely you mean engine was not frozen? If in doubt, I would put it in gear on the centre stand and try turning the back wheel - using the starter to turn a seized engine may cause all sorts of mayhem like stripping off start motor gears, burning out the starter or wiring - unlikely but could happen.
I did 210 miles today with my laptop in my backpack so I could stop and tune along the way.
Still got a couple of rough spots to work out but, WOT is just right.
Snapped a couple of photos......maybe some GoPro video tomorrow.
Still got a couple of rough spots to work out but, WOT is just right.
Snapped a couple of photos......maybe some GoPro video tomorrow.
