What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[mundmc]

I had the same problem, new cap cost me a hundred bucks once I finally found one. good luck with the repair!

Whoah! I ordered one for $12 online- i should’ve ensured it arrived first

 

[Denci]

Whoah! I ordered one for $12 online- i should’ve ensured it arrived first

Yeah I think I got screwed I paid 59 bucks plus 30 bucks shipping, but it was the only one i could find anywhere at the time. where did you order yours from?

 

[mundmc]

Yeah I think I got screwed I paid 59 bucks plus 30 bucks shipping, but it was the only one i could find anywhere at the time. where did you order yours from?

yamahasportsplaza.com , but they just told me the part won’t be in until June, argh!

 

[Shade]

Did not want to wait for my local shop to have an opening to paint my 92 so I decided to save on money and time I am wrapping it myself. So far the side tank covors and the swoops are done with the carbon fiber wraps. Next is the satin white wraps for the fenders and faux tank. Also just recently finished installing the forward controls. Not pics of the controls yet but here's some for the wraps.

 

[totalcomfort]

Did not want to wait for my local shop to have an opening to paint my 92 so I decided to save on money and time I am wrapping it myself. So far the side tank covors and the swoops are done with the carbon fiber wraps. Next is the satin white wraps for the fenders and faux tank. Also just recently finished installing the forward controls. Not pics of the controls yet but here's some for the wraps.View attachment 76281View attachment 76282

I want to wrap my side panels also, those look good. Tips or tricks you learned? Going to use carbon fiber also.

 

[Bobby A.]

Decided to put a different headlight on my 94 but unsure of which one. I was thinking of moving away from the stock round style but haven’t made up my mind as to what set up.
Who’s switched theirs out and to what style?

 

[Shade]

I want to wrap my side panels also, those look good. Tips or tricks you learned? Going to use carbon fiber also.

Watched a ton of how too's on youtube. Need a heat gun to make the vinyl stretch around those raised lines and to stretch around the sides. I used cutting tape to cut the line under the v max logo. Last bit of advice is take your time. I rushed the first time and really messed up that vinyl. Each one of those side prices and swoops took me between 45 - 60 mins of applying and pulling up to re apply because of bubbles or folds in the vinyl.
The heat gun can also help you remove those folds. Just pull up the fold and apply heat from for 3 - 5 seconds can make the vinyle go back to normal.

 

[Montana vmax]

Decided to put a different headlight on my 94 but unsure of which one. I was thinking of moving away from the stock round style but haven’t made up my mind as to what set up.
Who’s switched theirs out and to what style?

I just installed an LED headlamp from Phil Thatcher, so far so good. I just did it last week and it is at shop for valve adjustment so I haven't actually ridden in the dark.
View attachment led headlamp 001.MOV

 

[norcalAF]

Decided to put a different headlight on my 94 but unsure of which one. I was thinking of moving away from the stock round style but haven’t made up my mind as to what set up.
Who’s switched theirs out and to what style?

There are some pretty wild designs on the exactrep website. I have a round style LED headlight unit in mine and it works great for my early morning commutes in the dark. I'm not sure of the origin however as it was put on there by the previous owner.

 

[PLang23]

I just installed an LED headlamp from Phil Thatcher, so far so good. I just did it last week and it is at shop for valve adjustment so I haven't actually ridden in the dark.
View attachment 76307

Where did you buy that one from? Looks sharp

 

[Montana vmax]

Where did you buy that one from? Looks sharp

Phil Thatcher from the vmax club canada on FB. I have his info you are interested.

 

[Denci]

yamahasportsplaza.com , but they just told me the part won’t be in until June, argh!

OUCH! that sucks

 

[mundmc]

OUCH! that sucks

Well, I welded the fork cap back together and grinded in a socket, and I just installed it! Big day.
My forks are officially back on with progressive spings from Sean.
Yesterday- disassembled front turn signal indicators, traced some wires, ordered a diode kit and for the instrument panel and load resistors for the new led's I'm putting in.

 

[mundmc]

Today I tried to trace and understand my turn signal circuit. I’m kinda like a caveman who can make fire sometimes, but but who has such a poor understanding it all seems like magic. So basically, I tried to make my turn indicators into not-magic today.


I even wired in separate leds for both the running light and turn signal, and I was quite pleased to see them work (albeit with the dash light indicator disabled/ removed). I lost my diode kit to handle the completely-not-led-friendly dash indicator or Amazon never sent me one, but it’s probably on me. So I ordered another because I ran out of time trying to find the necessary diodes so I could check if I owned them. I know, I know, V=IR and 12 volts probably 1 amp (because 12w/8w stock bulbs), but I dunno a quick way to buy a diode rated at 12w. I don’t even know how diodes are rated.


But I think I am on the verge of understanding how to properly put in a second set (e.g., all) of led front turn signals. Since my rears are leds, there is now no resistance upon which the stock circuit is designed. Will report in after converting my dash turn indicator into a light that handles the cross-talk resulting from led turn signals.

 

[user 16790]

good luck with it, electrics are my binary code in latin

 

[user 16790]

I started on getting the bike cleaned up yesterday only to find my steering bearings are a bit notchy when centred, new ones ordered and it explains why it didn't want to stay on my chosen line at low speeds

 

[Fire-medic]

I started on getting the bike cleaned up yesterday only to find my steering bearings are a bit notchy when centred, new ones ordered and it explains why it didn't want to stay on my chosen line at low speeds

Depending on how-long you choose to own the bike, you might want to grind a couple of spaces where you can slip-in a drift punch to knock-out the outer race, to make a bearing change easier next-time. If you use a welder to put some bead onto the tapered outer race, and use that as a point to drive-against, then you don't need to do that. Some manufacturers provide that relief-space 180 degrees apart, on the VMax, Yamaha didn't.

 

[Jerry Klay]

Depending on how-long you choose to own the bike, you might want to grind a couple of spaces where you can slip-in a drift punch to knock-out the outer race, to make a bearing change easier next-time. If you use a welder to put some bead onto the tapered outer race, and use that as a point to drive-against, then you don't need to do that. Some manufacturers provide that relief-space 180 degrees apart, on the VMax, Yamaha didn't.

What a good idea! Bravo..

 

[Bobby A.]

There are some pretty wild designs on the exactrep website. I have a round style LED headlight unit in mine and it works great for my early morning commutes in the dark. I'm not sure of the origin however as it was put on there by the previous owner.

Yea I’ve ordered several things from Exactrep and love the CyberMax setup. I am also considering one from V-MAX 1200 | V-Max they have some really cool things as well.

 

[02GF74]

I even wired in separate leds for both the running light and turn signal, and I was quite pleased to see them work (albeit with the dash light indicator disabled/ removed).
, I know, V=IR

But I think I am on the verge of understanding how to properly put in a second set (e.g., all) of led front turn signals. Since my rears are leds, there is now no resistance upon which the stock circuit is designed. Will report in after converting my dash turn indicator into a light that handles the cross-talk resulting from led turn signals.

Power rating of LEDs is calculated the same: current flowing through them multiplied by voltage across them so V x I.

Note diodes (and that includes LEDs) flow current in one direction, as the voltage across them increases, the current through them changes exponentially. What this means a small voltage change can result in a huge change in current.

Typically once a LED is conducting, the voltage across it it 1.5v. (the voltage is higher for high power LEDs known as LED emitters). For diodea this is 0.7v, for schottky diodes 0.2v.

So if you have replaced the signal bulb in the instrument panel by a LED , it needs to have a resistor in series to limit the current else the LED is destroyed. Seeing as yours is working, then you must be using a 12v LED bulb that already has the resistor fitted.

You know about LED indicators interfering with the instrument lamp and that requires 2 doides to fix. The current flowing through those diodes is the same current going through the instrument lamp, which in your case is a LED so typically 20mA = a tiny amount.

You can work out the power across the diodes, 20mA x 0.7v so tiny, a 1N4002 or 1N5819 (schottky diode has lower voltage drop across it) can be used.
If needed, I can supply the wiring diagram for you.

If you are replacing all the indicator filament bulbs by LED bulbs, the flash rate will change or may stop flashing altogether due to the lower current drawn and us likely to need a resistor in each side circuit - some people use a filament bulb for this.