What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Hi mate. This is where I use products such as RTV 3145, wiping with alcohol first to clean the area. RTV is allot more expensive than standard silicon, but as mentioned before by me that it can bond an elephant to a battleship. I've used it for 20 years now and it is flexible but very strong, and high temp, 🐘 I discovered the stuff working in downhole drilling just up the road from you. I tend not to use my hot glue gun on plastic as it eventually tears loose if flexing to and forth.

These standard air boxes are a trade-off for fuel efficiency, power, etc, and if you let more unrestricted air through then you have to be prepared to let more fuel in also, as maleko89 above. So it ends up the bike cannot be sold in some countries if the air/fuel inputs are too high, then the clever guys out in the street get a hold of the bike and increase the air and fuel intakes, and voila you have a beast in beasts clothing (upgraded VMax)
Got it together with the RTV 3145. Seems to adhere well. Helps to keep the new joints in place as I push the air box down on the carbs. Thanks.
 
Unplug the voltage regulator and see if it keeps the fuse from blowing too.
Just did that now and doesn't blow the fuse but cranks and won't start. It started before when I had the Rectifier disconnected. I'm gonna pull off the rear cover to the Slave Cylinder anyway, I'll check for pinched wires to the stator.
 
Ok got it running. Seems that the reserve button must be on for it to start. And it's full of fuel. I could not hear the fuel run until I switched to reserve. I've been noticing that I've been having to do that with half a tank left. Maybe the Low Fuel sensor in the tank is malfunctioning? Now have to figure out what's going on with the 3 wires from the rectifier blowing the 10amp fuse...:)
 
Ok got it running. Seems that the reserve button must be on for it to start. And it's full of fuel. I could not hear the fuel run until I switched to reserve. I've been noticing that I've been having to do that with half a tank left. Maybe the Low Fuel sensor in the tank is malfunctioning? Now have to figure out what's going on with the 3 wires from the rectifier blowing the 10amp fuse...:)

With the fuel pump, if the fuel light is on with that much gas then you are right...probably a fuel sender issue. If not and the bulb works, most likely the fuel pump relay.

If it's the 3 white wires, that's the stator connection. Try plugging that in and disconnecting the red wire coming from the R/R. If it blows, you'll either need to repair the white wire(s) or replace the stator. Same goes for the red wire; if the main blows, repair the red wire or the R/R needs to be replaced.
 
With the fuel pump, if the fuel light is on with that much gas then you are right...probably a fuel sender issue. If not and the bulb works, most likely the fuel pump relay.

If it's the 3 white wires, that's the stator connection. Try plugging that in and disconnecting the red wire coming from the R/R. If it blows, you'll either need to repair the white wire(s) or replace the stator. Same goes for the red wire; if the main blows, repair the red wire or the R/R needs to be replaced.
Next step. Thanks. Also no low fuel light showing. If I disconnect the fuel sensor plug, will the bike run? I just order a starter side control. Because the starter button hung on me and had to manually release it. I was also thinking the reserve switch on there might be bad. Had already taken it apart and cleaned it once.
 
Now. Finally finished assembly yesterday.
Woulda been much quicker if I wasn't adding the rad cover LEDs etc.

As you might guess by the wash bucket, I had to shine up the rest of the bike, as it was dusty and cobwebby from sitting.

She did fire right up within 4 seconds of cranking. 👍 1st start of the year....

View attachment 79059


View attachment 79060


Cant appreciate the CBR light under the fender from here..

View attachment 79061



And then a late afternoon shot..

As the keen eye might tell, the mirrors have now been adjusted. I had to make some changes to the bar angle as to not hit the "tank" on a full lock right turn..like before (when she was spray can orange, years ago).

View attachment 79062


I'll get more photos when I get to more scenic views rather than my garbage cans.. 🤣 🤦‍♂️



T$
I like it!!!!
 
Next step. Thanks. Also no low fuel light showing. If I disconnect the fuel sensor plug, will the bike run? I just order a starter side control. Because the starter button hung on me and had to manually release it. I was also thinking the reserve switch on there might be bad. Had already taken it apart and cleaned it once.
Check the bulb filament. Where bulb sockets are exposed to water intrusion, I check the brass shell ground and the center 'hot' contact. I once had a BNIB two filament bike headlight soon lose continuity in low-beam, and I was checking the wiring, thinking the wire loom was responsible. It wasn't, maybe a bad filament in manufacturing, or damage from rough handling making it susceptible to quick breakage/failure.

I dunno about the fuel level switch/resistor being disconnected. They're still available. I like it as a low-fuel warning. You just have-to remember to switch it back to main-tank function. I try to do that before I remove the gas cap as a rote habit, so I don't leave it on reserve, and run-out of gas.

A 'hung-up' starter button is an easy fix, I usually just shoot it with some WD-40 or CRC 5-56 and ensure that there is 'spring' to the spring, that it hasn't lost its tension. In the past, I've replaced the spring with one from the hardware store, on another bike.
 
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Well, it had 777s when I got them, the front tire was 10 years old and still had a good ammount of tread... overall, the ride still feels "off" but has improved markedly. Going to try out some balance beads, next week perhaps
Finally got a decent ride in, about 40 miles, on the 230’s. From what I’ve seen so far I like them very much. Very stable in turns, nice grip, the more rounded profile of the front compared to the triangular Dunlop feels way better at speed (105mph). Another 50 miles or so I’ll start pushing it harder it turns and see how they feel when heeled over close to the edge.
 
Is there an led bulb replacement for the headlight?
Vmax uses H4 bulb of which there are numerous LED equivalents.

The headlamp's bowl reflector plays a major part in shaping the light beam.
Filament bulbs are omnidirectional whereas LED bulbs are not so there lies the first problem.

Secondly some H4 LED bulbs have a large heatsink, sometimes with an in built fan, so there may not be enough space to fit one.

Just had a quick search for H4 LED bulb, and the one below looks promising, it looks to be same size and possibly emits light in a compatible pattern, good news it is not overly expensive £13.

The sure way for LED headlight is to replace the unit, was a topic about this very recently.

Screenshot_20210816-183944.jpg
 
Finally got a decent ride in, about 40 miles, on the 230’s. From what I’ve seen so far I like them very much. Very stable in turns, nice grip, the more rounded profile of the front compared to the triangular Dunlop feels way better at speed (105mph). Another 50 miles or so I’ll start pushing it harder it turns and see how they feel when heeled over close to the edge.
That's great! I'm out with a fever, will probably get some time to ride between the fever breaking and my covid test coming back, but I did notice that my front tire is much more round; while counter steering, the effect was much more dramatic. I'm looking forward to less slippery turns, for sure; it seemed to get better towards the end of my ride. This reminds me, I should check the tire pressure.. they might be over-filled.
 
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Vmax uses H4 bulb of which there are numerous LED equivalents.

The headlamp's bowl reflector plays a major part in shaping the light beam.
Filament bulbs are omnidirectional whereas LED bulbs are not so there lies the first problem.

Secondly some H4 LED bulbs have a large heatsink, sometimes with an in built fan, so there may not be enough space to fit one.

Just had a quick search for H4 LED bulb, and the one below looks promising, it looks to be same size and possibly emits light in a compatible pattern, good news it is not overly expensive £13.

The sure way for LED headlight is to replace the unit, was a topic about this very recently.

View attachment 79063
I'll look into it. I installed an 8" headlight and the larger one should fit also. Thank you.
 

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That's great! I'm out with a fever, will probably get some time to ride between the fever breaking and my covid test coming back, but I did notice that my front tire is much more round; while counter steering, the effect was much more dramatic. I'm looking forward to less slippery turns, for sure; it seemed to get better towards the end of my ride. This reminds me, I should check the tire pressure.. they might be over-filled.
Oh man, I hope you feel better soon.
 
Got her to crank. Runs smooth and revs up good. Still have to put it on the sync gauges. But I had table-synced the carbs and that really helps. We'll see what else goes wrong next....? Next time someone yells out 'Barn Find', I'm running the other way.. :mad:
If you're paying a few hundred dollars for a non-operable 'barn-find,' and you can get the engine running for about the same, then the next thing is to make it move, and leave the finishes to last. Get it operating reliably, and then worry-about your paint, chrome, powder-coating and other finishes. The beginning budget should be for getting the engine running, and then safely-operable. Then, lipstick on the pig.
 
If you're paying a few hundred dollars for a non-operable 'barn-find,' and you can get the engine running for about the same, then the next thing is to make it move, and leave the finishes to last. Get it operating reliably, and then worry-about your paint, chrome, powder-coating and other finishes. The beginning budget should be for getting the engine running, and then safely-operable. Then, lipstick on the pig.
Running like it should now. Just finished syncing the carbs with the gauges. Don't know what happened with the start up, but took the stator wires back apart and put new connectors on them and that did the trick. Cranked right up. Now I can focus on the lights. The paint job is good for now. I just re-did the plasti-Dip the other day and looks fine for now. Sectioned off the rear fender and put a cheapy aftermarket light. Stop light stopped work and I'll check that and why low beam isn't working.
 
Now. Finally finished assembly yesterday.
Woulda been much quicker if I wasn't adding the rad cover LEDs etc.

As you might guess by the wash bucket, I had to shine up the rest of the bike, as it was dusty and cobwebby from sitting.

She did fire right up within 4 seconds of cranking. 👍 1st start of the year....

View attachment 79059


View attachment 79060


Cant appreciate the CBR light under the fender from here..

View attachment 79061



And then a late afternoon shot..

As the keen eye might tell, the mirrors have now been adjusted. I had to make some changes to the bar angle as to not hit the "tank" on a full lock right turn..like before (when she was spray can orange, years ago).

View attachment 79062


I'll get more photos when I get to more scenic views rather than my garbage cans.. 🤣 🤦‍♂️



T$
Don't want to meddle in your business, but you know what would look KOOL on your bike...? 'ME'
 
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