What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
E-mail address is [email protected] and you'll likely deal with Rick, who is great to work with and always pretty quick to reply.
Ordered the seat cowl on April 30th and Rick said it would be 4 months. Just remembered it the other day and it's been 4 months. Emailed Rick and he said it would be mid October, 5 1/2 months. If it makes it then.
 
Might one of you tell me why my starter clutch still clatters once in awhile, even though I just put a new Starter clutch on. Bolts where still good and torqued up fine. I also peened them. I'd like some ideas before I go back in again. This is all I've got left to do before I repaint the engine and put the bike away. Pleaseeeee...
 
Got some more miles in. As I was adding the photo, I noticed regular patched on the rear disc - what had caused that? Its dark here now but will take a look tomorrow.

Screenshot_20210905-211423.jpg

Marks - seem to correspond to the holes.
Screenshot_20210905-211439.jpg
 
That to me looks like either the rear rotor is overheating due to the rear pads not totally releasing OR the rear rotor is worn so much that the ribbed inner section is becoming more noticeable; I've only see that on car rotors though.
 
Seen that plenty of times and I do believe they have gotten hot and heat transfer is different where the inner ribbing is then on the main areas. Unless you have pulsation in the rear brake i would not sweat it.
 
Sean I believe has the correct hypothesis. I've had that, and without any erratic brake operation, it's cosmetic. See the Service Manual 6-10 (that is, chapter 6 page 10) which says rear rotor is 7 mm or .28 ". VMX12- Service-Manual.pdf (vmoa.net) It is page 249 of 405 pages as a .pdf. "Okay, who-wants to open a .pdf?"



FYI, the front rotors for the 298 mm 1993-2007 rotors min. measurement is 4.5 mm. See the above link, then search for the VMX12E Supplement, p.4 for brakes info, where the page 4 (showing as page 32 of 405 pages counted as a .pdf) brakes info for a 298 mm pair of rotors is shown as 4.5 mm thickness. Note that the front rotors shown are cross-drilled instead of solid-surface rotors like the 1985-1992 rotors, which have edge of the rotors venting.
 
Also can a starter solenoid affect starter drag, thus making the starter clutch clatter.
Thanks Guys
Hey patate, I wouldn't think it a solenoid issue as much as what activates the solenoid.
Get your meter out, check batt volts, grounds and all other connects.
My cutch(starter) can clatter on demand! Yes, if I hit the start button, warm or cold, without a little throttle, I get clatter, guaranteed, put money on it!
Hit the starter with a little throttle twist, no clatter! EVERY time!
I think what is happening is during the attempt without throttle the motor just about starts for an instant, but doesn't. In that instant it outruns the clutch but when it doesn't actually turn over, those big pins in the clutch have to reseat themselves and I get the clatter.
Also have ya seen the HEAVY DUTY starter clutch, yup its a different animal all together and even available on Amazon ,142 bucks, comes with the big gear, gasket and allen head cap screws .
 
Her you are, Gannon's product. They work great. Note the component used to present the proper resistance to the CDI box. many people have had their boxes fail on the 1985-'89 ignitions while using home-built COP's without these!

VMax COPs Splicker Design.01.jpgVMax COPs Splicker Design.02.jpg
 
Hey patate, I wouldn't think it a solenoid issue as much as what activates the solenoid.
Get your meter out, check batt volts, grounds and all other connects.
My cutch(starter) can clatter on demand! Yes, if I hit the start button, warm or cold, without a little throttle, I get clatter, guaranteed, put money on it!
Hit the starter with a little throttle twist, no clatter! EVERY time!
I think what is happening is during the attempt without throttle the motor just about starts for an instant, but doesn't. In that instant it outruns the clutch but when it doesn't actually turn over, those big pins in the clutch have to reseat themselves and I get the clatter.
Also have ya seen the HEAVY DUTY starter clutch, yup its a different animal all together and even available on Amazon ,142 bucks, comes with the big gear, gasket and allen head cap screws .
Great. Thank You. Engine off, battery sits at 12.5v. Once I start it up, sits at 13.3-.7v. I will do the throttle twist and start. I will also look into the heavy-duty starter clutch. I do a lot of buying with Amazon. Might be worth the cost. Thank you again.
Phil
 
Her you are, Gannon's product. They work great. Note the component used to present the proper resistance to the CDI box. many people have had their boxes fail on the 1985-'89 ignitions while using home-built COP's without these!

View attachment 79585View attachment 79586
Thank you. Is there a part number for these and who sells them? I would like to see a pic of them connected. I'm curious as to how they hook up. (As to how the 4 separate leads connects to a junction maybe?)
Phil

"Disregard picture request. I found the pics I needed on YouTube. Thanks :)
 
Last edited:
Great. Thank You. Engine off, battery sits at 12.5v. Once I start it up, sits at 13.3-.7v. I will do the throttle twist and start. I will also look into the heavy-duty starter clutch. I do a lot of buying with Amazon. Might be worth the cost. Thank you again.
Phil
Just tried the throttle twist and start. Seems to work better. 👍 But if I don't let the enigine warmup enough with the choke on, it will shut down and clatter as it's doing so.
 
Back
Top