What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Got the girlfriend on the back of the VMax yesterday! Woohoo! First step success. It was funny. She was scared to death when she got on. She was damn near breaking my ribs when we first took off. I could hear her sort of in a panicked breath. I was just going to drive her slowly around the neighborhood. Going around cul-de-sacs so she could get used to the bike leaning and such. After a few turns that panicked breathing turned into childlike giggling. It was great. When we pulled back into the garage and took the helmets off, she had a big smile across her face.

I told her she did really well. She confessed she was pretty much scared to death at first. We went inside, kicked off the shoes and chilled. A few minutes later she asked if we could go for a longer ride tomorrow. I smiled knowing that now I know she's hooked, and said of course we can. Then we woke up this morning she was thinking about it and was asking questions. So I think we're on track for her to get over her fear. Just gotta take it slow and steady.
If you don't already have one, a backrest will help ease her fears!
 
Fixed a mid-range cruising stutter ...

First I had a look at the connections to the COP wiring and noticed the yellow wire had corroded about a quarter inch inside the insulation giving an intermittent signal - a bit of splicing and soildering fixed that but not the stutter

Next I took out all the idle mixture screws, the only tight/dirty one was for the rear right cylinder so I cleaned it up and re-installed everything - no change

Finally, to check the position of the clip on the needle, just as I took out the slide I rotated the needle and it clicked... the damn nipple on that white spacer was out of place and richened the mid range on that carb

A simple mistake and easy to overlook
 
A good catch. Have one of these:


Or, two!

Fixed a mid-range cruising stutter ...

First I had a look at the connections to the COP wiring and noticed the yellow wire had corroded about a quarter inch inside the insulation giving an intermittent signal - a bit of splicing and soildering fixed that but not the stutter

Next I took out all the idle mixture screws, the only tight/dirty one was for the rear right cylinder so I cleaned it up and re-installed everything - no change

Finally, to check the position of the clip on the needle, just as I took out the slide I rotated the needle and it clicked... the damn nipple on that white spacer was out of place and richened the mid range on that carb

A simple mistake and easy to overlook
 
....the damn nipple on that white spacer was out of place and richened the mid range on that carb

A simple mistake and easy to overlook
Usually I am a big fan of "nipples", but the ones on that white spacer can be a PITA! I usually find myself second guessing if they are seated or not. I take a pair of dial calipers and using the back side of them, measure the length of the protruding needle before and after assembly.....gives my mind a little reinforcement that they are properly seated!
 
Usually I am a big fan of "nipples", but the ones on that white spacer can be a PITA! I usually find myself second guessing if they are seated or not. I take a pair of dial calipers and using the back side of them, measure the length of the protruding needle before and after assembly.....gives my mind a little reinforcement that they are properly seated![/QUOTE

I make sure the nipple isn't seated and set it in 180 degrees from the hole, then turn the needle with some downward pressure until I feel it pop in place. There should be some wiggle in the needle when everything is tightened down. And speaking of tighten? The plastic screw that holds it all in place? I HAVE A FRIEND, that snapped that off when installing it. Solution-heat up a flat screw driver with a small torch and push it into whats left of the screw. Then let it cool and unscrew the broken piece. Old marine trick for plastic screw nightmares.
Steve-o
 
Usually I am a big fan of "nipples", but the ones on that white spacer can be a PITA! I usually find myself second guessing if they are seated or not. I take a pair of dial calipers and using the back side of them, measure the length of the protruding needle before and after assembly.....gives my mind a little reinforcement that they are properly seated!
+1. A great idea for double checking the needle is seated. I douse the slide/ diaphragm with WD-40 before install.
 
I make sure the nipple isn't seated and set it in 180 degrees from the hole, then turn the needle with some downward pressure until I feel it pop in place. There should be some wiggle in the needle when everything is tightened down. And speaking of tighten? The plastic screw that holds it all in place? I HAVE A FRIEND, that snapped that off when installing it. Solution-heat up a flat screw driver with a small torch and push it into whats left of the screw. Then let it cool and unscrew the broken piece. Old marine trick for plastic screw nightmares.
Steve-o

Funny, my "friend" once snapped something too - it was the post that the plastic screw threads into

What harm would there be if I clipped that plastic nipple off the next time I'm adjusting the carbs :ummm:
 
I start the screw to get a little spring pressure on the needle, rotate it till it 'clicks' in, then bottom the screw.

Not sure if 'clipping the ***' would matter or not....but why would you want to do that John?

Even tho I have no idea what it was....Yamaha must have had a reason for including that ***.....maybe keep the needle from rotating? :confused2:
 
Funny, my "friend" once snapped something too - it was the post that the plastic screw threads into

What harm would there be if I clipped that plastic nipple off the next time I'm adjusting the carbs :ummm:
I can't think of any reason snipping the *** off would matter.I'd make sure the surface was sanded flush though. I'll bet it's been done before John.
 
I went for my first long ride with the V-boost open all the time. I still got good mileage. The red light came on at 112 miles on one tank and 115 on another, and I'd mashed the throttle a few times. It wasn't an economy run, by any means. It idles smooth enough, but required some A/F fiddling . I wish I'd done this when I first put my exhaust on.
 
I just stood there in the pouring rain... staring lovingly at Woona, wishing for a sunny day
pinkiesad2.png
 
Funny, my "friend" once snapped something too - it was the post that the plastic screw threads into

What harm would there be if I clipped that plastic nipple off the next time I'm adjusting the carbs :ummm:
We had this discussion in another thread and I believe Sean stated that the *** kept the needle centered in the slide. Gotta be a reason Yamaha put it there I guess, because molding that tiny *** on there probably gave them fits of rage at the injection molding factory!
 
Rebuilt my clutch replacing the worn out diaphram spring with the Barnett pressure plate upgrade. Had a rock hard clutch lever but after reading other posts, bled the system and cleaned the small hole in the master with a pin and problem solved. At the same time installed a fly screen, Raptor shift light, completed the crimp fix and did some minor corrosion controll on the frame. All in all very productive day and now I'm ready to ride. Lastly, trying some di-noc carbon fiber vinyl, much better than my last attempt.
 
Bid on some stuff on ebay... and put the project battery back on the tender. Is it possible that blue/white wire behind the starter solenoid could ground out and drain the battery?
 
Soldered the crimp. Ran a ground from r/r. Push started it twice. Fun fun. Think when I put on the new exhaust and do Sean's oiling fix ill pull the starter and clean/ground, or replace with a 4 brush. It's like an old mopar, fast as hell if you can get it started, and pass anything but a gas station. :bang head:
 

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