Went through my charging system piece by piece.
Using a meter I discovered I was getting 14.5 coming out of the rectifier but only 13.3 at the battery.:bang head: This was at 1100rpm with the headlight on; I've got two 50 watt bulbs in my Cybermax headlight so idle charge voltage has always been kind of an issue.:confused2:
I had done the "crimp" fix a long time ago; Soldering it.:clapping:
I went thru every connector from the rectifier to the battery and discovered every single one of them were dropping a little bit of voltage.:damn angry:
There was no corrosion or loose connections, just shitty wiring and connectors.
I cut out every single connector and butt spliced them and then soldered them also.
unk:
The main fuse block I couldn't eliminate so a pryed the connectors out and soldered them in addition to the crimp they already have.
I also cut the wire from the main fuse block to the battery terminal lug and put it on it's own lug instead of being inside the same lug as the positive cable that goes from the battery to the starter solenoid.
Every thing that got a crimp also got soldered, the only thing from the rectifier to the battery that isn't soldered is the fuse blades.
At this point I was getting a full 14.5 volts to the battery at idle with the headlight on and couldn't find any voltage drops anywhere.:eusa_dance:
I also took the rectifier loose, remounted it with some T&B Copper based conductor paste on the backside and replace the old ground wire I had installed from the R/R to the engine by the oil fill cap and replaced it with some pretty aftermarket red ground cable that came off my wifes old car.
It's now routed from the rectifier, to the engine, up to the negative terminal on the battery and then on to the frame.
I left the old battery ground cable that goes straight to the engine from the battery in place as well.
None of the grounding improvements made any difference I could tell.
Here's my take on things:
Since none of the crimps or lugs were corroded or loose my diagnosis is that the wiring and spade lugs, connectors etc are simply not up to the task of carrying 15-25 amps of current.
They are using some really crappy looking brass connectors and they look undersized as well, at least to me and I do industrial electric stuff for a living.
The wiring from the rectifier to the battery also looks to be about a 16 guage or maybe 14 guage wire which is very marginal for this kind of load.
I highly recommend this mod,
Along with the "splice/crimp fix"
I also think I may cut the connector out that carries the AC imput from the generator (the 3 white wires) to the R/R and see if a can make a difference there as well. Maybe it will bring the R/R output voltage up.
The reason I'm chasing all this is I'm planning on changing my headlight bulbs out to 100 watts each (Cybermax headlight) or maybe add a driving light below the headlight if I can figure out a clean way to install it.
Later,
Rusty
P.S.
If you can't tell by my lengthy post I'm at work on company time