What have I got?

[Fire-medic]

You're free to guess, I've left all-kinds of clues in my posts. I can make another one just like it, what it did is make my UFO 4/1 Dragstar a system you can ride w/o worrying-about losing your hearing if you don't use earplugs. I would equate the db to something not much-more than my stock exhaust, but the UFO still works fine, and I have the VBoost still operational. No throttling-down to the point of choking-off the exhaust, causing drivability issues, and you can actually-pass a LEO (law enforcement officer) while accelerating and not have to worry about being pulled-over for excess noise, exhibition of speed, defective or illegal equipment, or whatever code he can find in the state statutes.

I'd like to make one for another UFO owner but it's not cheap, about the same price Jon Cornell charges for his better-finished megaphone, which is still too-loud for my taste.

I can see where you could think it was from a Warrior, no, that's not it. I did some calculations about the canister volume and RPM's, and I am solidly in the functional area for efficiency, but I am not an acoustical engineer. In other words, for the size of the engine and the RPM's it runs, the volume of the can is supposed to be compatible. All I can say is that it allows me to run full-throttle bursts without making my ears ring as they would after riding with the stock UFO setup if I wasn't using earplugs. And, no apparent penalty in performance.

I started to make a post about a year-&-a-half-ago like Warp12 has recently-done, but my dyno dilemma http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21873&highlight=dyno+dilemma interrupted my attempt to determine a baseline before I began throwing my hop-up stuff at it. This thread is probably my second mention of what I've done to the bike since the engine failed post-dyno. I did make one other accounting for $-spent. I've bought a lot of spares along the way, all-kinds of stuff, and my wife insists I could have bought a new bike for what I've spent, but it hasn't been that bad.

I had built a new master bath to placate her for the $$ I have spent, and it's turned-out nicely. As I previously-posted, you could buy a decent Hyabusa for what I spent for the bath remodel. It was fun though, because I did some cabinetwork for it, and it probably got done quicker than if I did it myself since I hired a neighbor to do the majority of the work. He did a nice job on the tilework.

 

[RaWarrior]

I'd agree with what's been said. If you just want a bike to bomb around on, then address the bare issues (rust, and almost certainly electrical problems) to get it running and forget about the cosmetics. When you're done resell or part out.

If you have aspirations to restore or really cherry it up, I applaud your ambition and if you're looking for a project you found it. In reality it would likely be cheaper to get it to be a good runner then re-sell and put the money toward a newer model in better repair.

You'd be surprised how well some bikes can clean up with a pressure washer, some steel wool to clean up rust, and black rattle cans.

 

[invalidsession]

I'd agree with what's been said. If you just want a bike to bomb around on, then address the bare issues (rust, and almost certainly electrical problems) to get it running and forget about the cosmetics. When you're done resell or part out.

If you have aspirations to restore or really cherry it up, I applaud your ambition and if you're looking for a project you found it. In reality it would likely be cheaper to get it to be a good runner then re-sell and put the money toward a newer model in better repair.

You'd be surprised how well some bikes can clean up with a pressure washer, some steel wool to clean up rust, and black rattle cans.

You Sir , are astute. My good lady expressed a desire to learn to ride recently (God bless her) and we found a very nice 1982 Honda CM Custom for the right price with low miles and running well. There were some obvious worn areas from where grit shit and salt get thrown against the exposed frame elements but other than that the bike was solid, just scruffy. A good scrubbing and a couple of cans of Krylon later and the little Honda gets all the attention amongst the Harley's. Attention to detail is all important, use the best products for cleaning, painting and polishing and you really can polish the "proverbial" turd.
She's been offered twice the purchase price in a week and it took us less then eight combined hours to get it right, two cans of paint, some chrome polish and a ragged pair of underpants as a polishing applicator and buffer. It can be done.


Chris.

Chris.

 

[johnpclynch]

FYI, that screen is an extended Ermax (10cm higher than stock)

 

[WonkoTheSane]

Wow. Thanks for all the input ;-)

I didn't mention that she's a canadian import to the UK, so from snow and ice and salt to rain and salt and shit.

Yes, she's been kept outside, and rust is an issue, but from what I've seen so far nothing structural. The fork tubes have some pitting between the yokes, but nothing near the seals and has just had new seals with no leakage now.

The engine was painted by the previous owner with little to no prep. Strangely enough, the paint has flaked off and looks like shit. Yes, she was kept outside, and sadly still is (I have no garage or shed I can keep her in).

She seems to be running mostly OK. Starts easily, probably need to adjust the idle a little, and bogs a little around 2-2500rpm. Right now, I'm going for riding it over the summer and going for any low-hanging fruit and preparing for winter by de-rusting and painting everything I can reach. Changing fluids and basic maintenance. I'm a winter rider (our winters are pretty mild, compared to most) except when it's icy, but I will work out a plan to improve things where I can over the winter and see what spring brings me. Budget is tight, and family life is complicated so time is also an expensive commodity, but I'm in it for the long run. I'm not aiming for a restoration, just slow, steady improvement.

I've already learned a shit-ton from this forum, joined the VMOA and will donate to the forum as soon as I can.

thanks, all.

 

[donnelly317]

Awesome! Did you find info on pee shooter cleaning carbs? It might solve your stumble. Or checking sync of carbs. You sound like your up to speed but just want to make sure you did check gas tank right? If its rusty I highly recomend doing the POR 15 fuel liner because you don't want to tear into the carbs if you don't have to! :beer:

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[WonkoTheSane]

Awesome! Did you find info on pee shooter cleaning carbs? It might solve your stumble. Or checking sync of carbs. You sound like your up to speed but just want to make sure you did check gas tank right? If its rusty I highly recomend doing the POR 15 fuel liner because you don't want to tear into the carbs if you don't have to! :beer:

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Up to speed, hardly. I'm a real novice when it comes to wrenching, but I'm learning by tearing down an '85 Kawasaki 454 LTD. Carb synch is high on the list, I'm going to try some Redex in the tank (we don't really have Seafoam over here) and will try the peashooter and/or the shotgun when I have a chance.

I don't see any rust inside the tank, but the fuel level sensor has a show leak around it. I have the parts to replace the o-ring and screws, so will be draining the tank soon and get a better look inside. New fuel filter as well.

Which jet is likely to be a problem if it's low rev bogging? Not the main, I presume?

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[donnelly317]

Up to speed, hardly. I'm a real novice when it comes to wrenching, but I'm learning by tearing down an '85 Kawasaki 454 LTD. Carb synch is high on the list, I'm going to try some Redex in the tank (we don't really have Seafoam over here) and will try the peashooter and/or the shotgun when I have a chance.

I don't see any rust inside the tank, but the fuel level sensor has a show leak around it. I have the parts to replace the o-ring and screws, so will be draining the tank soon and get a better look inside. New fuel filter as well.

Which jet is likely to be a problem if it's low rev bogging? Not the main, I presume?

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Pilot I believe. Not a carb gury but pitty sure pilot jet. Pee shoot/shotgun seems to work for lots of people. Good there's no rust in your tank. Wasn't in as bad of shape as yours but mine didn't look pritty when I bought it. Paint and polishing will do a lot for looks

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[Fire-medic]

Up to speed, hardly. I'm a real novice when it comes to wrenching, but I'm learning by tearing down an '85 Kawasaki 454 LTD. Carb synch is high on the list, I'm going to try some Redex in the tank (we don't really have Seafoam over here) and will try the peashooter and/or the shotgun when I have a chance.

I don't see any rust inside the tank, but the fuel level sensor has a show leak around it. I have the parts to replace the o-ring and screws, so will be draining the tank soon and get a better look inside. New fuel filter as well.

Which jet is likely to be a problem if it's low rev bogging? Not the main, I presume?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

One of your first tool purchases should be a 1/2" impact driver, and a good set of 1/4" and 3/8" sockets. You can get nearly any fastener undone w/that, w/the possible exceptions of the axle nuts and the steering head stem, those could be done w/a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and whatever individual nut size you need for those. The impact driver is your friend. You need a good weight ball-pein hammer to make it work best, min. 16 oz, better, 20 oz. Be careful if you decide to use the impact driver on your carb screws, you can crack a body. Also, a straight jaw Vise-Grip will help loosen many fasteners, be sure it's about 10". For my $, a Dremel rotary tool w/a selection of bits, especially the abrasive cut-off discs can solve many problems. A set of cold chisels will also help persuade those that cannot be undone by aforementioned methods.

 

[CaptainKyle]

If it runs decent & is structurly & mechanical safe Have fun with it & fix it a little at a time. I have seen bikes that looked way worse than that one come back to life. It just all depends on you & how much work & time you want to spend with it.

 

[WonkoTheSane]

One of your first tool purchases should be a 1/2" impact driver, and a good set of 1/4" and 3/8" sockets. You can get nearly any fastener undone w/that, w/the possible exceptions of the axle nuts and the steering head stem, those could be done w/a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and whatever individual nut size you need for those. The impact driver is your friend. You need a good weight ball-pein hammer to make it work best, min. 16 oz, better, 20 oz. Be careful if you decide to use the impact driver on your carb screws, you can crack a body. Also, a straight jaw Vise-Grip will help loosen many fasteners, be sure it's about 10". For my $, a Dremel rotary tool w/a selection of bits, especially the abrasive cut-off discs can solve many problems. A set of cold chisels will also help persuade those that cannot be undone by aforementioned methods.

Thanks, I have quite a lot of tools, and I suppose I'm not a /complete/ n00b, it just feels like it. I suppose one day I'll have done enough not to feel that way, but right now it feels like what I've done is tiny compared to start there is to know, and I've never taken apart an engine, gearbox or carbs, just tinkered around the periphery. Brake bleeding, oil changing, that kind of thing.

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[marsmax85]

Don't forget a good can of weasel piss !! I have been waiting to use that slang term for wd-40 or pb blaster for awhile !! It's your bike go with it and ride safe ..

 

[WonkoTheSane]

Don't forget a good can of weasel piss !! I have been waiting to use that slang term for wd-40 or pb blaster for awhile !! It's your bike go with it and ride safe ..

I have lots of weasel piss, penetrating oil and all sorts of other fluids from when I was trying to get that fecking broken stuff out

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