What would you ask?

[Raz]

Hey all, I’ve got a 2002 completely stock Vmax with 6.6k miles on it that I’d like to sell, but not sure how much I should ask. I stupidly have let the bike sit (covered) in my garage for a very, very long time with not tank treatment, and haven’t started it in years, so I’m sure it’s going to need carb rebuild and all the work required to get a sitting bike running again.
It also needs tires, probably breaks, and the front fork seals need replacing.
It’s in perfect shape otherwise. Carbon fiber paint, no scratches, beautiful bike.
Thoughts on what you might pay for a fixer upper like this?

thanks all!

 

[caseyjones955]

Ive been watching prices as I loosely consider selling. 3500-5k seem to be about where they land if they are ready to ride. Less if some TLC is needed, some of the Yamaha OEM parts can add up pretty fast.

The boys are gonna wanna see a pic. It might be worthwhile to see if you can get it to bark to life too.

 

[Raz]

Thanks for the reply. I’ll get some picks.
I’ve thought about seeing if the battery will take a charge and trying to fire it up, but I’m pretty sure the gas is spoiled. Not sure it can be treated.

 

[TK3333]

I wouldnt even crank it over without draining the tank and bowls, changing fuel filter and engine oil and filter. And let some fresh fuel run through the bowls before firing.

 

[Raz]

Yup, was thinking the same. Cheers.

 

[Raz]

Here’s a few pics I just took.
Aside from the boot scuffs near the pedals the paints still in pretty near perfect shape.
I’m in central California, near Fresno.

 

[Fire-medic]

The difference between what it's worth, needing nothing, and how it is now, from your description, is probably the actual value of the non-operational bike, now.

Your honest report is commendable. If you were to have the skills to clean and synch the carbs, change the brake and clutch fluids, install a decent battery, clean-out the gas tank, new gas filter, oil/filter, brake pads and mount a pair of tires, you would gain probably $2,000 in value, by my estimate, that figure including a labor allowance.

The bike has some things in its favor: < 7K miles, a 2002, no crash damage, and apparently, decent cosmetics.

Not in its favor: not operational; the cost in parts/labor to do the above; someone who knows the ins/outs of a VMax cannot verify that the gearbox is OK.

Just getting the bike able to start and to operate normally would allow you to gain I estimate $1,000 in value. I could see that rebuilding the carburetors, flushing/cleaning the gas tank, a gas filter, oil/filter, and installing a battery. But that's $1,000 to do that.

The smart move with the least headaches and outlay of cash would be to sell it as-is for whatever you can manage. If you took it to a shop and said, "get it running, and replace everything it needs to be safe and reliable for a riding season," I wouldn't be surprised if the bill you had to pay was $2,500.

 

[Raz]

The difference between what it's worth, needing nothing, and how it is now, from your description, is probably the actual value of the non-operational bike, now.

Your honest report is commendable. If you were to have the skills to clean and synch the carbs, change the brake and clutch fluids, install a decent battery, clean-out the gas tank, new gas filter, oil/filter, brake pads and mount a pair of tires, you would gain probably $2,000 in value, by my estimate, that figure including a labor allowance.

The bike has some things in its favor: < 7K miles, a 2002, no crash damage, and apparently, decent cosmetics.

Not in its favor: not operational; the cost in parts/labor to do the above; someone who knows the ins/outs of a VMax cannot verify that the gearbox is OK.

Just getting the bike able to start and to operate normally would allow you to gain I estimate $1,000 in value. I could see that rebuilding the carburetors, flushing/cleaning the gas tank, a gas filter, oil/filter, and installing a battery. But that's $1,000 to do that.

The smart move with the least headaches and outlay of cash would be to sell it as-is for whatever you can manage. If you took it to a shop and said, "get it running, and replace everything it needs to be safe and reliable for a riding season," I wouldn't be surprised if the bill you had to pay was $2,500.

This is fantastic input, thank you so much!
While I could probably work out how to do much of the needed work, save the carb work, I don’t know that I want to put in all the time and money needed to do even the things I could do.
I will sell it as is, if I can find a buyer.

I loved this bike for the years I rode it, but life happened and time got away from me, and now I just want a bike I can putt around town on and take on some trails

Thanks again for the great input, much appreciated.

 

[Fire-medic]

With that attitude and the low miles and later year, you are going to be able to sell it easily. Good luck.

 

[V4max]

To bad your so far away I'd probably work out a deal with you. I'd say someone will buy it pretty easy especially if you could get it running. Good luck

 

[caseyjones955]

That is pretty darn nice!

I like that its unbuggered, it pleases the inner purist.

 

[CaptainKyle]

To bad I am so far away . I have been known to buy a few non runners

 

[Raz]

Sat with this over the weekend, and have decided I’d like to do as much of the work myself to get it started as I can. I feel pretty good about all of it, save the carb work, and not 100% sure on the tank cleaning.
Any recommendations for where to take the carbs? Should I find a local Yamaha shop or do you guys recommend anyone in particular to send them to?
I’ve lurked in these forums for some time before signing up and think I saw some recommendation for carb work in the past…
Also any recommendations for tutorials on how to clean out that tank?
Thanks all. Who knows, if I get this thing started up again I might just have to keep her, lol!

 

[Fire-medic]

dannymax, CaptainKyle and Sean Morley: three guys on here who will fix your carbs, look them up under the 'Members' banner at the top of the page, and PM them, or email you get from the same place.

Plenty of tank-cleaning threads/posts. Use the search function upper-right. The cheapest is probably 'cleaning vinegar,' commonly 6% or greater, but remove your fuel sending unit and don't immerse your gas cap! (in the vinegar) Leave potmetal parts in long-enough, and they will dissolve! The steel gas tank is OK. It needs to come-out for best results: again, use the search function, click on it, and you can also use advanced search.


Shown is a block-off plate to replace the fuel level sensor, when you use a rust removal agent. A bit of a smear of Permatex around the holes will help seal it in-place, look at the gasket on the fuel level sensor for where it seals.

Evaporust is expensive. Cleaning vinegar you can get from Home Depot or similar. Don't think, "if 6% works, that 20% stuff should work great!" A word about rinsing, you need to dry it thoroughly, immediately, because just leaving it to air-dry, it will flash rust in minutes!

 

[Raz]

Awesome, thank you!!

 

[DreamV4]

I used 110 V to clean fuel tank, but you need to attach a diode and it is dangerous.

 

[Fire-medic]

I don't recommend it.