Will R1 or R6 forks fit the VMAX

[thenewguy]

I have a 2000 VMAX and would like to know if the forks, triple trees and brake calipers from a 2004-2006 R1 or R6 will fit. Is it more involved than a simple bolt on or will they not fit all together? If needed, I can then swap the front rim etc.

 

[Buster Hymen]

I have a 2000 VMAX and would like to know if the forks, triple trees and brake calipers from a 2004-2006 R1 or R6 will fit. Is it more involved than a simple bolt on or will they not fit all together? If needed, I can then swap the front rim etc.

The triple tree won't fit, you have to buy a custom one that steps down as the forks are a lot shorter. Also you should respring the forks as the VMax is a big fatty compared to the weight of the R1/R6.

 

[thenewguy]

Here's a stupid question. You're talking about the top triple tree right? If so, are they available to buy or do I have to engineer one and have it CNC'd? Secondly, any idea how much shorter they are?

As for the springs, if I were to tell Ohlins that I am using R1 shocks on a VMAX, will they know what springs I need?

 

[one2dmax]

The lower will work after you change the stem but you would need a custom upper at a minimum. I have done one of those so far. However, I saw a very nice pair of OTEC tripples for R1's that are works of art. Get those then the entire front end and you're in business. BUT, you'll have to order a non-radial for the rear until you get a wheel you can get a radial mounted up for.

Sean

 

[Buster Hymen]

Here's a stupid question. You're talking about the top triple tree right? If so, are they available to buy or do I have to engineer one and have it CNC'd? Secondly, any idea how much shorter they are?

As for the springs, if I were to tell Ohlins that I am using R1 shocks on a VMAX, will they know what springs I need?

Don't worry about asking questions, there are no stupid questions! :smile:
For the springs, they would probably need to know the weight of the bike, weight of the rider in riding gear, and the "type" of riding you do.
Exactrep sells a complete USD front end that bolts right onto your bike without any mods needed, if you want to go that route.

 

[one2dmax]

You can go the otec tripple route and be a **** load cheaper then the complete front end they offer.

 

[Buster Hymen]

You can go the otec tripple route and be a **** load cheaper then the complete front end they offer.

It would be cheaper, I don't know about a shitload cheaper. The Exactrep one bolts onto a stock VMax (ie keep 18" front wheel), where the Otec route ($1000 for the triple) you have to buy a 17 inch rim for the back so you can run a radial and your stock front VMax rim won't bolt up to your R1/R6 forks. Plus you still have to respring the forks and find a brace to support the front fender.
I used Exactrep as an alternate to the piece meal approach. I noticed on the Wild Brothers site they show a complete 50 mm front end but don't mention if it is for the VMax or the price.

 

[one2dmax]

Well, you can get the tripples for $1000 as you noted. You can virtually get a complete R1 front end with R1 brakes (an upgrade the exactrep doesn't include), 17" wheel (many times with a good tire already mounted), Fender (would need painted or you can get a real carbon fiber one, for under $500 used. Get some springs and even get a bias tire for the 17" (they do make them) and be over a $1000 less then the exactrep way. Of course to maximize the change you would want a radial rear (17" busa can be converted by Kosman - I have pics) to get the most gain from the swap. With the money save over the exactrep you can easily get the rear done and have the full conversion that way.

I've got an R1 front end on my 91 with an upper tripple we made (not nearly as nice as the otecs) and have depated making more of them for sell. I would estimate it in the $500 range too and it uses the stock R1 lower so they aren't matched looking like the otecs.

Sean Morley

 

[Buster Hymen]

Well, you can get the tripples for $1000 as you noted. You can virtually get a complete R1 front end with R1 brakes (an upgrade the exactrep doesn't include), 17" wheel (many times with a good tire already mounted), Fender (would need painted or you can get a real carbon fiber one, for under $500 used. Get some springs and even get a bias tire for the 17" (they do make them) and be over a $1000 less then the exactrep way. Of course to maximize the change you would want a radial rear (17" busa can be converted by Kosman - I have pics) to get the most gain from the swap. With the money save over the exactrep you can easily get the rear done and have the full conversion that way.

I've got an R1 front end on my 91 with an upper tripple we made (not nearly as nice as the otecs) and have depated making more of them for sell. I would estimate it in the $500 range too and it uses the stock R1 lower so they aren't matched looking like the otecs.

Sean Morley

Wow, I didn't know they made a bias ply for a 17 inch rim, so there is definately some savings there if you don't have to convert the rear to a radial.

 

[Mad Jac]

What are the chances if your buying a front end from an R1 that it isn't even tweaked a little from the accident. Who would part out a new r1 front end on a running current bike? I'd be suspisious of them being bent.
Susuki gsxr 1000 front end is a complete bolt on replacement including rim 120/70-ZR-17. Just either buy 2" extenders from someone or fabricate them yourself, or pay some to make them for you. Then simply buy new risers from Scootworks in North Carolina for about $200. You get better brakes USD Forks 17'' rim and upgraded fender. If you wanna go the used parts way.

 

[bmannon]

shipping on that exactrep front end would be VERY high also, i just ordered a backrest from them and shipping was as much as the backrest was.

Don't worry about asking questions, there are no stupid questions! :smile:
For the springs, they would probably need to know the weight of the bike, weight of the rider in riding gear, and the "type" of riding you do.
Exactrep sells a complete USD front end that bolts right onto your bike without any mods needed, if you want to go that route.

 

[bmannon]

what are the 2" extenders?
this front end would bolt directly on, same neck, trees, bearings and all?

What are the chances if your buying a front end from an R1 that it isn't even tweaked a little from the accident. Who would part out a new r1 front end on a running current bike? I'd be suspisious of them being bent.
Susuki gsxr 1000 front end is a complete bolt on replacement including rim 120/70-ZR-17. Just either buy 2" extenders from someone or fabricate them yourself, or pay some to make them for you. Then simply buy new risers from Scootworks in North Carolina for about $200. You get better brakes USD Forks 17'' rim and upgraded fender. If you wanna go the used parts way.

 

[maxmanic]

Wud be interested to set up one for my max too. What year models GSXR 1000 wud be best?

 

[gleno]

Well, you can get the tripples for $1000 as you noted. You can virtually get a complete R1 front end with R1 brakes (an upgrade the exactrep doesn't include), 17" wheel (many times with a good tire already mounted), Fender (would need painted or you can get a real carbon fiber one, for under $500 used. Get some springs and even get a bias tire for the 17" (they do make them) and be over a $1000 less then the exactrep way. Of course to maximize the change you would want a radial rear (17" busa can be converted by Kosman - I have pics) to get the most gain from the swap. With the money save over the exactrep you can easily get the rear done and have the full conversion that way.

I've got an R1 front end on my 91 with an upper tripple we made (not nearly as nice as the otecs) and have depated making more of them for sell. I would estimate it in the $500 range too and it uses the stock R1 lower so they aren't matched looking like the otecs.

Sean Morley

Would it be possible to post shots of the front end conversion? Maybe this should be in the user mods section?