Won't rev

[johnpclynch]

I blew air down those holes for sure, and it's clean as a whistle.

air correctors are necessary for Stage 7 and are usually superglued in, if not they may pop out during a service or pea shoot

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Air correctors look like a brass plug with a tiny hole in them. No screw slot. Can be seen from top.

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

I'm going to try to put together a good set of stock carbs and test it out, I started it yesterday and it was running crappy again, I'm leaning again toward electrical. I wonder if a bad CDI box would cause this kind of bad running condition?

 

[PATMAX]

I'm not sure if Spec Ops has a full stage 7 but we pulled his air correctors out of his carbs at a Tech Day. I think he still had good results without them but maybe he can pipe in with what set up he has and the outcome. One of his bikes runs like a raped Mod Monkey.

 

[CaptainKyle]

I'm not sure if Spec Ops has a full stage 7 but we pulled his air correctors out of his carbs at a Tech Day. I think he still had good results without them but maybe he can pipe in with what set up he has and the outcome. One of his bikes runs like a raped Mod Monkey.

The problem with his is it did not have a stage 7 but had 3 air correctors in it.

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

Update, went and bought a multi-meter and it's putting out ZERO! Checked a couple other bikes to make sure it was working correctly, and it was. My ZL900 was 13.5 with key off and 14.3 running.........This one was 12.5 both ways, so it's not charging AT ALL! Time to track down another problem me thinks!!

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

Checked the R/R and the stator today using the "how to" guide here, didn't see any obvious problems with either. With a full charge, right now it will run at abou 13.3 v at idle, but when I rev it, it drop to about 12.9.........It's charging now, but I still don't think this is right. I was able to ride the bike around, it runs OK except at WOT where it sputters a bit. I've got a replacment CDI unit, may try that today for grins. I know that doesn't have anything to do with the charging system, but what the heck.

Update, rerouted the red power wire coming off the rectifier, straight to the positive battery terminal. Now getting just under 14.0 v at idle and 13.3 or so when I rev it up, I think this will charge the battery, but don't understand why it's dropping when I rev it, surely this isn't normal.

 

[dannymax]

Checked the R/R and the stator today using the "how to" guide here, didn't see any obvious problems with either. With a full charge, right now it will run at abou 13.3 v at idle, but when I rev it, it drop to about 12.9.........It's charging now, but I still don't think this is right. I was able to ride the bike around, it runs OK except at WOT where it sputters a bit. I've got a replacment CDI unit, may try that today for grins. I know that doesn't have anything to do with the charging system, but what the heck.

Update, rerouted the red power wire coming off the rectifier, straight to the positive battery terminal. Now getting just under 14.0 v at idle and 13.3 or so when I rev it up, I think this will charge the battery, but don't understand why it's dropping when I rev it, surely this isn't normal.

My 1260 does the same thing, it will idle at 14.1 - 14.2 and drop to 13.6 when revved. I can find no reason why it does this but the battery takes and holds a good charge, even after sitting a few weeks it fires right up.

I've decided it's not anything to be concerned with.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Could be that the TCI load goes up?

Just thinking out loud here....

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

Could be that the TCI load goes up?

Just thinking out loud here....

I'm not sure, but I think it's doing well enough to keep the battery charged, so I think I have that piece licked. I may swap out my plug wires today too, they are those "Nology" wires with the external grounds, and look like they've spent some time in the weather, I've got a good set of stockers to put on. I may replace that CDI too, but they are so ******* hard to get to! Could they have put that thing in a HARDER place to reach???

 

[gamorg02]

mine drops as well as the RPMs go up. first day it left me stranded i'd start worrying about it.

edit: or even seemed like it might. i have an Odyssey battery and it cranks over very well every time.

 

[jagco1]

I'm not sure, but I think it's doing well enough to keep the battery charged, so I think I have that piece licked. I may swap out my plug wires today too, they are those "Nology" wires with the external grounds, and look like they've spent some time in the weather, I've got a good set of stockers to put on. I may replace that CDI too, but they are so ******* hard to get to! Could they have put that thing in a HARDER place to reach???

Don't hook up the ground wire on the nolorgy wires, I just went through this with nolorgy some how ground these wire's takes away from the spark at higher rpms.. I slip a blue hose over top of these to make sure did not touch anything the motor runs much much better and strong on the top in. I won few 1/4 mile races few weeks ago.


They are very good wires but don't hook up the ground wires - take the bike out for a ride this may be your problem.

 

[jagco1]

This is the email sent to Nology


I have set of your wires on my Vmax bike.... I been having some popping through the carbs at idle man I had the carbs clean and rebuilt 2 times and I replace all 8 rubber boots new fuel pump tried everything to stop the popping.... The ground wire silver you have come off the wire if you touch them when the motor is running you can get shark. When the motor is running and some popping going on I pull off of all 4 ground wiring and install blue hoses over all the hot wires so they don't touch anything.

The motor stop popping through the carbs..... Some how it seems with them hook up It takes away from the sparks to the plugs....

This is the location where these was hook up.... When took all 4 a loose the motor stop popping idle strong..

is this a bad set of wires....