Won't start w/new Odessey

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CustomMax

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i know I've had battery issues before, but since I put a new stator, new r/r and eliminated the crimp and even ran a flat braided ground strap it seemed fixed. Well, now since I had the chatter again in my starter clutch I got new bolts and w/red loctite and a new Odessey PC680 which I trickle charged out of the bike I put it in and it cranks like the battery is dead. WTF!!! if I jump it it fires right up and voltage at idle is 13.8 and a 2 G's it's over 18 volts. Electrical is my weak point so I'm looking for anyone that could tell me what the piss is going on? Is it possible that we over tightened something inside causing a problem or where do I start to look.
 
Did you make sure you didn't pinch any wires when you reinstalled the cover? I've also seen the main power wire drop down and burn through making contact with the header.

ANOTHER critical thing is you MUST have a gasket on the stator cover. You can't just use silicon. This reduces the clearance on the pins that the starter idler gears turn on and cause them to bind up.
 
Now I was careful not to pinch any wires like I somehow did last time. But Sean, what's this Main power wire that your talking about? I did use a gasket but couldn't find the torque specs for the side cover bolts and I may have over tightened them. If you know what they are that would help. Thanks, I have some stuff I gotta send back to you and will soon. Sorry we moved and it's been a ton of work and am just getting settled. Thanks, Ed
 
Starter main power wire. Large black wire running along that side of the frame from the relay under the seat to the starter.
 
If it fires right up while JUMPING, but grunts with your battery - my guess is that you've got a bad battery, no matter how new, or recently charged you may think it should be. Pull it out and have it load tested at your nearest battery/automotive shop.
 
I would say the same about the battery. You can have 12 volts and still have a bad cell which will give you issue starting. When it come to parts even new doesn't mean it not bad. We used to get tons of rebuilt stuff while in the military even new and find out once installed they were bad. Issue could also be with the starter itself not having a good connection inside, but it does sound like the batter over the starter..
 
18 volts is way too much. you should have max 14.8
your RR may be faulty and that could have toast your battery. make sure the battery terminals are properly set with positive (red) on left and ground (black) on right.
 
Good point Fred, I thought that kinda voltage no matter what was way too high so I should just put the one I had from before I put this new R/R on but also will take my battery to get tested which I already pulled back out. Does anyone know the torque amount for the side case bolts? Sean brought a good suggestion that the splines which those gears come off the starter may have a bind if I overtightened the cover bolts but yea I did use a gasket but didn't torque them. And Thanks for the input guys I will check everything you all mentioned. Ed
 
18v is way too much....I had a battery go pop on one my fj12's due to faulty r/r....I'd be checking r/r function before destroying another battery
 
Are you using the old OE regulator mounted behind the left passenger foot pad?
I found my 85 had the upgraded Mosfet Regulator but I t wasn't mounted very good, it basically was just sitting on the engine so I moved the V boost controller behind its mounting and put the regulator there, I did have to cut off a piece of natal on the Inside of the left scoop and made a longer wire harness. I think if the regulator has a poor or weak electrical connection it will open up the voltage higher, I have seen shorted regulators pump out too much AC voltage as well, batteries cannot take non DC voltage.
 
For your info the torque for the stator cover bolts (10x iirc) is 6Nm. A bit more than finger tight. like Sean mentioned if the gasket is in place the torque shouldn't cause a problem but theres something that may be a problem. Did you remove the cogs when you removed the cover? Usually they fall down to the floor. They are not symmetrical, with this i mean when you put them back to place they have a proper way to get in specially the one that sits on the middle that has a lip/shoulder on one of the sides only and has to be facing outwards. That may cause some binding when rotating, but don't quote me on that because i never tested it, just installed them properly.
 
Ok, got side case bolts to torque but still on bench battery says 13.4V and once in bike won't turn over like it's just dead. Took battery back out and tomorrow getting it load tested and I also checked the starter wire all the way back and it looks fine. Gotta double check the R/R to see why it was reading 18V at 2000 rpm. Guess I'm looking for a new one of those next.
 
Ed, and anyone else that has a similar issue or just wants to check their starter circuit. It's very possible to have a good looking cable that's corroded inside. Or high resistance anywhere in the circuit.Check this link out.
http://www.engine-light-help.com/voltage-drop.html

Easy peasy check for that would be to disconnect it at both ends, and put the Ohm meter probes on them to see how much resistance through there. BUT, had that been an issue, the bike wouldn't have spun over much easier with the "jumper" battery attached either.
 
Ok looks like my new PC 680 Odyessy is bad! It tests 12.9V but only 24 cca so looks like I gotta find where I got this online from. Damn it! That's the worst thing about online shopping. The guy at advance auto parts showed me a lithium which weighs like a feather and it has like 335cca but it's about 1/2" wider so not sure that it will fit but the real bad part is the price they want $260 for it but wow is it light but wow is it expensive. I'm gonna try to get a new Odyessy from where I got mine under warranty so wish me luck with that. WTF!
 
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i sell some lithiums too and not terribly cheap but good light batteries. It would prob fit with our big battery mod
 
Is it possible that the R/R is bad Sean and that caused my Odyessy to now only show 24 cca and how much are your lithium battery's if I can't return mine. Oh yea, how do I do the big battery mod?
 
Like others have said, the bad battery is probably the result of the faulty RR.
Out of curiousity, how long was your bike in operation with the output voltage this high (18+)? Just wondering, because it would be useful info for anyone that has a on-board voltmeter. It's natural to think that a meter comes in handy for indicating a no or low-charging condition, allowing the rider to limp home or to a garage, but obviously a RR not regulating on the high side can have devastating results as well. In your case, a ruined battery.
An overcharging battery caused "catastrophic" results in a bike I owned years ago, (so far back that MC voltmeters were not even thought of). The battery EXPLODED - not only ruining it, but sending battery acid all over every chrome part behind the seat position. Try to imagine this happening to YOUR bike! The dealer came good for most of the damage, since the bike was only a few months old. He also dialed down the RR to the correct output. I don't think any of today's regulators are adjustable. Another money grab from the manufacturers!
Hope you get a refund on that battery.
Cheers!
 
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