yes,another charging topic...

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tryed a good working 2003 R1 and a brand new. dedicated ground wire,like the one i have from stock,since its a 2001 bike.
 
My rectifier was replaced with the same type '85 model grounded behind the footpeg so I assume it was the 2nd one. I replaced it with a newer '96 model with 5 wires and grounded to the battery. It did not work so I bought the one for $14 I sent you. This is the 4th one I have tried and the 2 of the others checked out ok on the multimeter.
 
ok,now it doesnt charge at 14.5...

start and it shows 13.5 and sometimes less.
and it only charges at that voltage if i ver it above idle for awile.
new regulator was tested and same result.
at the end positive side of the regulator i see 0.8 volts
stator wires at idle show 18volts AC
at 4000rpm(above 3000 its the same) i can see the 14.5 volts IF i pull the headlight fuse.
with headlight on it takes one volt.

There seems to be something going on with your stator. To have 70 volts at 5000 rpm & only 18 volts at a idle doesn't seem right to me. :ummm: What does someone else think ?

Dave
 
my guess was always the stator.
i removed it ,had to buy new gasket only to put it again as the guys at the wiring shop said it was ok...

what everyone is getting at idle?volts AC at 1000rpm idle
 
hi

...as soon as the fan kicks in the voltage starts to drop,bike start to run rough at idle and voltage shows less than 13v.
as soon as fan shuts of voltage starts to climb slowly,but now it doesn't charge more than 14.1, even at higher rpms.
:ummm:
I would look to this symptom as an indicator of the fan or fan wiring. Seems you've tackled most everything in the charging system, perhaps the fan is drawing too much juice and the system is somehow unable to recover when the fan stops. Maybe the fan is not completely disconnecting from the circuit when it shuts off and is bleeding current internally (as heat) but not enough to spin?
 
could be but now it doesent need the fan to start to have low voltage.
i cant have move than 13.4 give it take at idle,and not always...

i suspect the stator,just need to confirm the AC voltage at idle from a good bike if anyone can llok it up.
 
thinking to myself...
i dont remember if i tested the added wires to the black and red wires of the existing harness or tested them running directly to the battery.
could try that later.
 
Doesn't a properly working R/R drop off it's charging rate/voltage as the demand decreases. In other words, shouldn't it charge more vigorously just after start up, due to the drain on the battery during initial starter cranking, then if the battery is well maintained and charged properly, the R/R would then automatically begin dropping off the charge it allows back to the battery so that it does not over-charge? Then as you add load, such as turn on the signals, hit the brake lights, change to high beam, or the automatic fan kicks on, the R/R then automatically increases it's output to resupply the battery to full charge again?

At least, that's my understanding of a properly working charging system.

If your R/R is putting out over 13v, you don't add load, and your battery seems fully charged.........perhaps it is working properly.? But then, if your fan kicks on, and the R/R no longer is able to maintain over 13v, then of course something is wrong with it.

However, if while the R/R is charging at a rate of over 13v, and your CDI box is mis-firing, then I'd go back to my original post and restate that it may be time for you to explore a replacement option for your CDI.

If on the other hand, your bike is running decently (no misfire), your battery is staying fully charged, and your voltage never dips below the 13+ you indicate you have, GO RIDE. It might not be perfect, but it is doing the job.
 
it misfires after droping below 13v,when fan kicks in.
but that was first time i tested,now for some reason it doesnt charge well even when the fan is not working.
can someone measure the volts ac at idle?
 
Proper stator output AC voltage should be 50VAC, or higher when measured between any two of the three legs. All combinations of the three legs should result in the same 50VAC, or higher......if memory serves.
 
I just turned the key on and I get 13.58
Let it idle for 1 min and it sets at 14.20

and what about volts AC at idle?
on the 3 white wires comming from stator?

Proper stator output AC voltage should be 50VAC, or higher when measured between any two of the three legs. All combinations of the three legs should result in the same 50VAC, or higher......if memory serves.

but that is at what rpm?

i am getting tyred of this,today was my father´s funeral(62yrs) and my will to get this sorted is fadding as i come to a dead end every time i check...
 
Sorry to hear of the loss of your father.

50VAC at, or near idle, certainly should have that voltage by 2K rpms I'd think. If your stator is still putting out around 70VAC, then I'd say it is working like a champ, as that is certainly enough AC voltage for a good R/R to convert into manageable DC voltage for your bike. If the R/R isn't doing that, it needs to be replaced (again if necessary).
 
Did you double check the black wire direct to battery negative. Check and make sure there isn't any current while disconnected and running.
 
since i tryed 3 with 3 R/R(mine,a good used R1 and a new honda tourmax unit) i think i can rule out the R/R.
it could charge higher above idle but its charging,problem is at idle...
how can i measure if there is current on the black wire that goes to battery?electrical stuff is not my safe ground doing work on bikes...
 

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