Bounce in housing for indicator lights

[Decter]

Hello again,

Third and final question.

I knew before buying the bike that the housing for the indicator light, sorry don't know the parts name, just above the carbon fiber cover for the air box was replaced as it was newer than the surrounding parts and a fellow Vmax rider pointed this out to me (thanks you by the way). I

I have noticed when riding and going over bumps that it will bounce up and down slight, and feels a bit ajar. I removed the top of the air box to get access to it, and removed two nuts holding it in place.

All points of contact are tightened down, and the play (or jarring/bouncing) I am noticing seems to be coming from the rubber fitting which surround both sets of mounts for it.

Is there anything I can do to remove the play in the fitting and make it less mobile?

Thanks all,
Nick

 

[davesax36]

It's on posts and rubber grommets. I'd let it bounce a bit.

 

[marsmax85]

My 85' has a little bounce also .. I just let it

 

[Rusty McNeil]

It's by design. Although sometimes it's too much


You can build up some RTV/silicon on the inside lip of the faux tank where it can't be seen but will apply enough pressure to the instrument housing to settle it down.

Edit;
I was thinking of my aftermarket lid, I don't know if you can do that on the stock cover.

 

[Fire-medic]

Think of it as an accelerometer-if you can't read the gauges inside it because of movement, 'slow-down!':biglaugh:

Any room to slip a washer on the mounts to tighten 'em up?

 

[Decter]

Well the issue is with a hard bump it slams down against the faux tank making a bit of a noise, always makes me think that something else is wrong with the bike. Next step for me is to add either Progressive or racetech shocks, but until then I may try removing that plastic post and replacing it with a small bolt to secure it in place.

Anyone tried it?

Also, how difficult is it to replace stock with racetech/progressive shocks?

 

[Tex85]

I would actually remove it and inspect the mount area. I had a problem with a new set of gauges I bought of a member here that caused them to move WAY more than it used to. It ended up being one of the posts had gotten damaged causing it have more freedom of movement than it should have. To fix this I just put the mounting plate for lack of a better term from my old unit on the new one, and voila no more excessive movement. This could also be fixed by shoring up the existing mounting bracket with whatever method you chose. It should have some play, but based on your description it sounds like something is off. I have a unit at home that is sitting on my work bench, I can post pictures tonight of what to look for if you like.

 

[jagco1]

You can replace the rubber grommets with new, If they are to lose, Lowe's my have some that will work.. Are you can use some Teflon Tape and rap around
the peg to make it a little tighter. That's what I use. But it should move a little.

 

[Decter]

Is there any design reasoning that anyone is aware of that requires the mobility of it?

 

[[email protected]]

Absorb shock and vibration. The speedometer has rubber pads on the mounting plate too.

Are you sure you have all the correct parts and that the rubber is in good conditon? Missing hardware/worn rubber could cause more bounce.

 

[Decter]

Yes, it is new.

There isn't any abnormal bounce when riding, it is mostly when I go over a solid bit of terrain and the front shocks take a good dip.

 

[Miles Long]

Absorb shock and vibration. The speedometer has rubber pads on the mounting plate too.

Are you sure you have all the correct parts and that the rubber is in good condition? Missing hardware/worn rubber could cause more bounce.

Right on. Don't screw with anything that's rubber mounted. Just tighten the nuts as intended, let the rubber mounts do their thing. Trust Mother Yamaha.
Cheers!

 

[sdt354]

Sort of related. I did the bounce check and noticed a stop was broken off the lower tree. I'm trying to make this a short project as I've lots to do. I'm going to see if there is something I can make up for stops, maybe a little stronger. I'm thinking brass or stainless bushing held in with an 8mm threaded screw? Anyone else ever tackle this?
Steve-o