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piercew

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Jan 20, 2014
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Location
Duluth, MN
I'm a new member and first time VMax buyer. I came close about 10 years ago, but I 22 and single; I could afford the bike but not the insurance. I'm finally in a place where I can get back to it. I've got a line on what seems to be some good deals. This one would be the easiest for me to get to . http://brainerd.craigslist.org/mcy/4253532340.html
But all the non-stock parts worry me. Also I'm a pretty big guy (6'4" 280 lbs) so I'm particularly concerned about the lowering. Will it effect max load in addition to handling? What exactly is the advantage to lowering the rear end? Hopefully the seller has all the original parts tucked away somewhere. I'm guessing that as setup now that bike would burn more fuel and the range is a concern as it is. Thanks for all you're help.

--Bill
 
I'm a new member and first time VMax buyer. I came close about 10 years ago, but I 22 and single; I could afford the bike but not the insurance. I'm finally in a place where I can get back to it. I've got a line on what seems to be some good deals. This one would be the easiest for me to get to . http://brainerd.craigslist.org/mcy/4253532340.html
But all the non-stock parts worry me. Also I'm a pretty big guy (6'4" 280 lbs) so I'm particularly concerned about the lowering. Will it effect max load in addition to handling? What exactly is the advantage to lowering the rear end? Hopefully the seller has all the original parts tucked away somewhere. I'm guessing that as setup now that bike would burn more fuel and the range is a concern as it is. Thanks for all you're help.
--Bill

Welcome to the forum, Bill. You have come to the right place for advice re the V-Max.
I don't believe lowering the Max will significantly effect the gas mileage. A stock bike will get 90-120 miles before the warning light comes on, depending on how it's been driven. One of the issues owners learn to live with. The reduced range is more than made up with the kick-ass performance!
Most folks lower the max because they are short (not your problem!), or they like the "slammed"look. However, there are disadvantages to lowering-
.. less fork and shock allowable compression (harsher ride)
.. sidestand must be modified
..Makes using the centerstand more difficult.
.. Rear axle cannot be removed without removing shocks(with stock exhaust)
Not sure if lowering Max effects maximum load allowed -others will chime in.
At your height, you would probably find the Max geometry a bit cramped, even at stock seat height. Keep in mind the bike has more of a sportbike design, not a "cruiser" one. For this reason you will probably want to go back to OEM height. If the owner of the bike you are looking at (a beauty!) does not have the original 13" shocks, that is not a big problem. You will find lots of used ones available on this forum, very reasonably priced. Other folks will no doubt advise you to upgrade to a better quality of shock - one of the modifications often recommended to improve the handling of this '80's vintage design.
The front forks have probably been lowered using a Progressive lowering kit (available in 1" or 2" configurations), or with the use of homemade lowering blocks. Again, not an expensive fix to put back to stock, just requires dis assembly of the forks. Lots of videos and threads available on this forum.
With this being said, your concerns regarding purchasing the bike you linked should not be primarily concerned with it's present suspension.
A 2000 model has had most of the upgrades that the first gen. V-max went thru, including brakes, suspension,starter and electrical. Other upgrades, which continued, I believe to 2003, were minor. There is a thread in the database outlining the changes that the bike has gone thru, over it's production years.
Transmission issues, in particular 2nd gear skipping, is probably the #1 thing to be concerning with, when buying a used Max. Others include carburation and electrical concerns.
You will no doubt get many more replies to your post, all will contain great advice. You also have the luxury of searching thru an extensive history of past inquiries and replies. I can guarantee that there has not been a V-Max problem encountered, and subsequently fixed, by using this forum.
Cheers!:punk:
 
Looks clean.
Front forks can be put back to stock by removing the lowering springs on the damper rods. Rear shocks could be traded if necessary. Lots of guys dig the lowered setup.

Lowering makes the bike look good. IMO lowering the front a bit more than the rear does help handling but others may not agree. I'm not a fan of short rear shocks.

The exaust is a slip on and won't make a huge difference in anything but sound. Most say the stage 1 jet kit is junk. Judge for yourself. Most likely the bike would run just fine with stock parts save for some smaller mains (147.5 or 150) and a small shim on the stock needle. Things that the owner did are easily reversible.
 
Thanks, I do also have a line an 06 with 11,000 miles; all stock with few details private owner is asking $6200 and another 06 at a dealer with 2,500 miles but the dealer is asking $7800. Both are close to my family but 7+ hours away from me. 6200 feels a little high to me for Iowa in January. I've got a cousin doing some preliminary research for me, the owner seems to just want to get out from under the note; I'll probably jump on the 11K miles if I can talk the price down a little.

The Mrs. is good with me getting a bike, she's not so sure about doing it while the snow is on the ground. So the less tinkering I have to do, the sooner I can start sleeping in my bed again, so the '00 will probably be my fall back. Unless I get the first one cheap enough to buy the shortened one for her.

Edit:
The girl is a flake. She has the title with a lien on it, and wants what she paid for it in the summer of 2012. Oh and she has the title and her ex has the bike. Too much work. I'm going to find something closer to home.
 
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For anyone that was in the "hope the tire fits" thread; this is the one I was talking about. The dealer also has an '06 and '07 listed; but it is a long haul for me.
http://www.roadtrackandtrail.com/new_vehicle_detail.asp?veh=5549&pov=3340162

This one is a pretty close to me and set up for how I would use it most of the time. The only thing is the color. Anyone know if the yellow was an option in '03?
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mcy/4285688644.html

Thanks for you input. I'm trying to do my homework, but it's a lot to absorb all at once. I would really prefer to find a pure stock model, but those seem less common.
 
I'm confused about the radials question. None of those bikes I see that you are looking at seem to have radials on them. They all look like stock size bias ply tires. I'd go for the yellow '03. Plenty of extras already on there.
 
Yellow was not a color option that year. Not a big deal. Lots of guys paint and/or trade bodywork.

Seems like a decent bike. Carb cleaning isn't too difficult. Plenty of how to info here with step by step photos. Sean or danny could help if your not up to it. Its got a few decent upgrades plus it sounds like he has all the stock parts.

If you buy it and want to get rid of the exhaust let me know. Id be interested.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 
piercew;This one is a pretty close to me and set up for how I would use it most of the time. The only thing is the color. Anyone know if the yellow was an option in '03? [url said:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mcy/4285688644.html[/url]

Yellow was the color for a 1994. only that year. He could have just painted it or switched body parts (skins).
 
Talk to Sean Morley aka one2dmax, im sure he can set you up on a good used vmax.
 
I'm confused about the radiaIls question. None of those bikes I see that you are looking at seem to have radials on them. They all look like stock size bias ply tires. I'd go for the yellow '03. Plenty of extras already on there.

Umm, yeah sorry about that. I was looking up "qualifiers" in between hockey periods yesterday and everyting was coming up radial. Maybe my crotch rocket affinity has screwed up my google results. I couldn't find them as a bias tire until i pulled up the dunlop catalog.:ummm:
 
I do have a couple available and pricing will vary depending on how it would be wanted set up.
 
The 03 yellow bike seems like a decent buy but I'd be wary of dropping 4 large on a bike you can't test due to the carb issue. For me, I would have to lose the windshield and the back rest but you could sell those items and perhaps recover the cost of a carb rebuild :confused2:. Not a bad price considering the mileage, I paid $6150 for my mint 6,000 mile 07 last year and am delighted with it. It has a similar specification to the bike you are looking at and came with all the standard parts that had been replaced with after market goodies plus it has been bored out to 1420 cc. I love the thing and it makes me giggle every time I ride it :eusa_dance:. Go for it my man !! There is no bigger blast than a Max howling down the road and all the help you could ever possibly need is right here on this forum.

Chris.
 
Umm, yeah sorry about that. I was looking up "qualifiers" in between hockey periods yesterday and everyting was coming up radial. Maybe my crotch rocket affinity has screwed up my google results. I couldn't find them as a bias tire until i pulled up the dunlop catalog.:ummm:

Note: http://duckduckgo.com is a search engine that does not change the results based upon previous searches or other information.
 
As luck would have it we had to send a couple guys from work down that way this morning. Downside neither of them was me; upside I've got someone that can give the thing the once over(on the company's gas) before I drag the trailer down there. Does the second gear issue typically present itself on the center stand? That worries me more than the carb issue. Guys says the carbs are gummed up but it has been run up several times over the winter. Makes me scratch my head a little. I guess I've never had one "a little gummed up". I'm sure its possible.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
 
No, I don't think the no-load rear tire spinning freely on the centerstand would allow the 2nd gear problem to show itself. Personally, I wouldn't buy any 'Max w/o being able to road-test the second gear integrity under-load. If it has running issues pay a correspondingly-lower price, as-if you had to spend the $ to fix it. Walk-away if he won't budge on the price. Call him when the roads are clear-enough to have him demonstrate second gear under-load.

A pig in a poke, ya'know...
 

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