charging issue

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mattmullins

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My bike charges between 12.2 vlts at idle and 12.9-13.3 vlts at 2000 rpms is my stator going bad
 
My bike charges between 12.2 vlts at idle and 12.9-13.3 vlts at 2000 rpms is my stator going bad

Check & clean RR connections, the three white wires to stator and the red and black wires. you should be getting 14+ at 2000 RPMs.
getting 13.3 volts mean the stator & RR are working, its just bad grounding & not so clean connectors. make sure your battery is fully charged.
I had similar problems then I did a little mod which fixed it, now over 1500 rpm I am getting 14.28 volts, the mod requires cutting the +ve & -ve connectors of the RR, see diagram. DO NOT connect the black RR wire directly to the battery, attach it to a good grounding spot on the frame.
Use 30 amp fuse as close as possible to the battery when connecting the red RR wire.
 

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Where is the r/r located

The RR is located behind the left passenger foot peg, some times the mating area of the foot peg rusts and binds a little so use a rubber mallet if needed to remove the foot peg, that said to access the RR +ve & -ve wires they are located behind the left side cover, you will also find 3 white wires with a connector, these are the stator to RR input, check & clean them.
 
Cleaning the connections and battery condition are a great way to start. There are great threads on this site for testing the stator and RR, and the crimp fix. The RR'S a common problem on the older Vmax's. The mating area Firefly memtioned is the ground for the older units. Newer style RR's are a good upgrade. Most of us with older bikes have been through this. I'm getting just under 14 volts with everything on. I'm using a late 90's OEM RR.
Steve-o
 
Still old parts (R&R) and connections even though your year went to a digital Ignition System...

Newer R&R has Cooling Fins
 
I have a 1990
Even the old RR will work if you find a way to attach an extra grounding wire to its body & ground it to the frame.
the current flows from -ve to +ve so grounding is crucial, cleaning the mating surface of the RR and the corresponding surface in the foot peg holder will also improve grounding, & put some dielectric grease on them.

if all fails get the newer kind RR. another option is the R1 RR but you have to find a place to relocate it & extend the wiring.

I don't think your RR or stator are defective or failing, do these fixes first & see if it helps or not before getting new parts.
 
All these fixes that are being mentioned will help like they did with my 89. I have an Odyssey Battery now but an older R&R. My battery reads 12.9 volts after sitting over night. R&R never gets to 14 volts output either...
 
OK did all that started it was at 13.7 v and then dropped to 12.7 at 2000 rpms bad stator?
 
Not necessarily. Do the fault finding diagram that is a sticky in the Electrical section.
 
At idle stays at 12.1-12.3 won't. Go any higher then 12.7 at 2000rpms when I first start it it will go to 13.7 and then drops to 12.7 full charge on battery
 
At idle stays at 12.1-12.3 won't. Go any higher then 12.7 at 2000rpms when I first start it it will go to 13.7 and then drops to 12.7 full charge on battery

are you using a high wattage headlight bulb?, try to remove the headlight fuse and check the voltage, it could be bad headlight connection causing too much resistance. did you check & clean stator connectors?
 
Took out the headlight fuse was at 13.7 that's what it use to be I think its just getting week put fuse in it dropped to 12.9v
 
OK did all that started it was at 13.7 v and then dropped to 12.7 at 2000 rpms bad stator?


Possibly. Check the voltage with a cold motor, then ride for a while and check it again after the motor is fully warmed up. If the voltage is a lot lower, the stator is bad, replace it.

Honestly, ditch the crappy stock shunt style R/R. Shunt rectifiers suck and they all go bad eventually. Either get a new style (finned) from Python, or do the R1/sportbike R/R mod. The challenge with a sportbike R/R is finding a place to put it. If you convert to COPs, the rear coil mounting plate is a perfect spot. Here's the kicker....you can buy a set of COPs and a mosfet(modern style) sportbike R/R for less than a stock replacemen r/r

I had bad voltage, tried all the tricks (crimp fix, eliminating connectors, wiring directly to battery), which did help a bit, but the voltage would never stay where it should be...always worked back down to 12.5 or so. I replaced the R/R with one off a ZX14($30 on ebay), had perfect voltage cold but back to 12.5 with a hot motor. Replaced the stator($150 HD Venture stator from Rick's), zero issues now.
 
Sanded down everything nothing worked. Took everything Apart put back together charges at 14v what ever its working
 
Sanded down everything nothing worked. Took everything Apart put back together charges at 14v what ever its working

Finally you got 14 volts :clapping:, oxidation of connectors really mess up grounding. but what exactly did you take apart & put back?
 
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