Clutch Problem - Vmax 1200 (1992)

[SCARYGUY]

I disassembled the clutch disc pack of my Vmax 1200 (year 1992) to check the thicknesses (because clutch sometimes was sliding during running).
After reassembly, the gears no longer engage.
The discs were dipped in oil before reassembling and the master cylinder circuit was purged.
With the engine running, I engage the gear but the bike always seems to remain in neutral.
Any tip?
Thanks

 

[maleko89]

First guess is your shift segment pin(s) dropped out preventing the shift. Does the clutch level feel normal and can you hear the clutch engage/disengage? How far did you tear into your clutch? If one or more of the pins are missing, will need to remove the entire clutch and other bits to replace the end of the shift drum segment...preferably to the later version which was changed in 1999 to prevent such an occurrence.

Mark

 

[RempageR1]

My guess is #12 is not fitted correctly, so it does not compress the plates.

 

[Jack Hammer]

Did you align your drum and center dots? If yes, did you torque all the drum bolts? If yes, bleed your clutch.

 

[one2dmax]

I agree. Did not get the pressure plate lined up. Here's some example pictures. It's not a bleed issue as that would just not let you disengage the clutch which you did not say was the problem.

 

[SCARYGUY]

Thank you everybody. I'll check if I made a mistake during reassembly.

 

[paulharland]

I have had a clutch problem where the clutch would not engage at all.
I found that the old 1985 flex rubber hydraulic hose was degrading and a rubber smear was lodged on the clutch slave cylinder wall binding the slave piston in the pushed position and the clutch spring pressure could not return the piston to its rest position. I have of course fitted a second pressure plate to eliminate cluch slip at full throttle.
I have replaced the front and rear brake and clutch hoses with braided aftermarket kits. I was really surprised with the much better brake performance.
I hope you see the oil light come on when you unleash your V max........

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes, I've had collapsed brake or other hydraulic lines on one or another of my 2 and 4-wheeled vehicles while maintaining them at some point, over 55 years of ownership.

Given what's at stake with a vehicle, you need to consider replacing them when you find an issue, instead of trying some 'repair' where you keep the line giving you issues. I'm fortunate that my friend's shop can fabricate any hydraulic line I have need to replace, with SS hoses.

Just to show paulharland what gunk can accumulate in a hydraulic system, here are pics of a SOHC Honda 750-4 front brake being disassembled to be rebuilt. The PVC pieces are how I removed a stuck master cyl piston with a shop-made tool costing very little.



Before I made the PVC guide for the rod (pic #3) to hammer-out the stuck master cyl piston, I used as big an allen key as I could get into the banjo bolt hole, and hammered on it. Effective, but crude.



Here's how I un-stick a frozen caliper when the air hose rubber nozzle won't do the trick. Use a grease gun. I've never been defeated using this method. Sure, you have to clean up the caliper inside, but that's simple once the piston is removed from the caliper.

 

[wayne billings]

Just a note:The flea bay fuel pump is still working well after 100 miles. I am using shell rotella 4 and noticed that the engine is noisier and cannot find neutral when stopped but the clutch holds well so far.I will switch back to valvoline m/c oil soon.I also had a balancing issue with a shinko front tire recently. lining up the dot with the valve stem didn't work well, I needed more than 1 ounce . I rotated the tire 180 deg. and needed just over 1/4 ounce and no death wabble . got it up to 85mph. Happy trails

 

[SCARYGUY]

I agree. Did not get the pressure plate lined up. Here's some example pictures. It's not a bleed issue as that would just not let you disengage the clutch which you did not say was the problem.

Hi one2dmax, your guess was correct: the pressure plate isn't lined up. I noted the push rod does not fit well and remains 1 centimeter out of place. It seems stuck.
What do you think?

 

[Fire-medic]

Hi one2dmax, your guess was correct: the pressure plate isn't lined up. I noted the push rod does not fit well and remains 1 centimeter out of place. It seems stuck.
What do you think?

Have you forgotten the #23 ball bearing? See Rampage1's picture, post #3.

 

[SCARYGUY]

Inserting the ball #23, if missing, will solve the problem?

 

[Fire-medic]

'the push rod does not fit well and remains 1 centimeter out of place. It seems stuck.'

What I think you're saying is that it's 'too-short'-(the pushrod). That could be because that ball bearing is not in-place. That would keep the clutch from disengaging.

The 'it seems stuck' I'm not sure about. Maybe remove the push rod (part #22) and check it on a flat plane for being out-of-round/bent, a condition which could make it 'stick' in the geared shaft.

 

[SCARYGUY]

I'll take a picture to explain better...

 

[SCARYGUY]

Here hou can see the push rod not entering well

 

[Jack Hammer]

That looks like clutch lever was operated at least once while pressure plate was not on so the slave cylinder is now zeroing in the wrong position. This system will work briefly without the ball bearing but the rotation of the push cap will wear out the end of the pushrod.

If the pushrod is not bent or worn out then install it, install the ball, put the cap on push it all the way in while clutch bleed is open and close the bleed. Install clutch and test.

 

[SCARYGUY]

That looks like clutch lever was operated at least once while pressure plate was not on so the slave cylinder is now zeroing in the wrong position. This system will work briefly without the ball bearing but the rotation of the push cap will wear out the end of the pushrod.

If the pushrod is not bent or worn out then install it, install the ball, put the cap on push it all the way in while clutch bleed is open and close the bleed. Install clutch and test.

Thanks. I'll try in the next days

 

[one2dmax]

Might have to tap it with a rubber/plastic mallet and get it back in. NOTE, it will usually stay partially out due to the nature of the seal retraction design.

 

[SCARYGUY]

Fixed! Thank you all guys