dannymax
Well-Known Member
I think if you look close you will find the paint is shrinking away from the elbow....I thought it was stone chips too but....then realized the rest of the bike isn't all speckled! :blink000:
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I think if you look close you will find the paint is shrinking away from the elbow....I thought it was stone chips too but....then realized the rest of the bike isn't all speckled! :blink000:
yea. and respraying it was a pain! paint didn't want to stick well.
customizedcreationz
Well-Known Member
I ve been toying with making an elbow, but just dont have time and mine looks terrible. But I have a hard time paying $150 for something like that, when I can pop one out myself and have it look cooler in my own special way.
Looks like a nice part though.
Looks like a nice part though.
davidon
Well-Known Member
Mine did too..have to tighten the nuts a bit to get it to stop
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
This is made with 2 parts that are threaded into each other Todd. but i think that for a fine craftsmanship dude like you you already had noticed that.
customizedcreationz
Well-Known Member
Yeah I figured that out awhile ago and came up with two ideas that are different. I just don't have time to mess with it just yet. Maybe some time in the next 100 years I ll get around to it LOL.
CrackerRican
Well-Known Member
Yeah there pretty cool, but I like these better.
Attachments
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
Out of curiosity, has anyone ventured in trying to just chrome this piece with just regular or black chroming? I have been thinking of this for the past few years on my '05 and just haven't ventured there yet. Now is the time to think about it since I have a Morley clear water pump cover on its way this week and need to do something. The red fluid is pricey at $14/L and I need 4 (stock is 3.05L).
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
Also, what coolant is everyone using that is RED? To swap to the RED coolant, is a typical water flush sufficient or is there a process to properly flush out the old coolant?
CrackerRican
Well-Known Member
Im not 100% sure, but I think I saw the red stuff on vmax outlaw site
http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/merchandise/index.htm
Toyota (expensive stuff)
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
Someone told me to run this stuff:
"http://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/141?f[application]=147&f[range]=21
If I run Toyota Red, do you need to use any additives like water wetter or alike?
the oem one is plastic so it couldnt' be chromed, i'm sure the aftermarket one could be though, but thats probably adding a good cost ot an already stupidly priced item.
i run toyota red in all my bikes. i just mix it with distilled water.
i flush the system with tap water, then distilled, maybe a vinegar mixture in there too. i've had red the past 3 changes though so hard to tell how much 'old' stuff is left and it still looks very red thru the clear water pump cover.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
A proper flush with water should do the trick. I do it a few times in a row. Warm the bike, empty it, fill with water and warm it up, empty it, fill it a third time, empty it. Fill with antifreeze and warm it up and top off the level.
I use distilled water to flush. Vinegar and water is a good cleaner but I don't use it unless I see signs of crud. If you use vinegar be sure to flush with clean water afterwards. The whole process doesn't take long. I leave the rad cap off so the bikes heats faster and builds no pressure. I drain from the water pump and pop the hoses of the drain valve.
I use distilled water to flush. Vinegar and water is a good cleaner but I don't use it unless I see signs of crud. If you use vinegar be sure to flush with clean water afterwards. The whole process doesn't take long. I leave the rad cap off so the bikes heats faster and builds no pressure. I drain from the water pump and pop the hoses of the drain valve.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
+1, mostly how I do it.
I run the pump drain plug open and keep a continual flow of water with a hose into the open cap and just let'er rip.
If you have a thermometer that's accurate it's also a good time to check at what temp the T-stat is opening by sticking it in the open cap area.
You do this after you've closed the valve and installed the water pump drain plug and filled it with you preferred mix of coolant.
Distiller water with your coolant product really is the only way to go on an aluminum motor.
You can tell when it opens by the behavior of the water flow.
I will add that personally I will NEVER again use any "Flush" product. Used it several times years past and every single time ended up with some sort of seal, o-ring, or gasket failure in short order.
I think they are just too "strong",...perhaps acidic or corrosive in an effort to "cut" buildup???
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
Ok, where is the water pump drain plug? Is this the hose thats on the bottom front of the bike with the turn valve? Which way with that means what? Also, if I use that Toyota prediluted 50/50 mixture, there is no need to mix in distilled water since its predilluted. When you flush, do you just flush with tap water and not distilled water? From the sounds of it your flushing with the garden hose instead of distilled water? Why would you put garden hose water in if your only supposed to be using distilled water when you dilute the solutuion (if necessary)?
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Pump drain plug is on the right side of the motor, lower part of pump, facing down, looks like an oil fill plug.
Drain valve is the plastic hex shaped turnie thingie below the radiator, has two detents in it. Markings make no sense either. I've got mine marked but out of state and can't look at it right now. Drain valve doesn't "dump" water....just changes routing.....
Of course you don't need to add water to a pre-diluted mixture...didn't mean to imply that..
Yes, I flush with a water hose...thats when I'm flushing....
When I'm done I run a jug of distilled water through it and let it drain to rinse the tap water out, install the plug then fill it with my coolant...
I don't flush with distilled water cause I think you need more passes of clean water through the engine than a few gallons of distilled water are going to accomplish.....
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
My elbow was looking a bit ratty too - along with the rest of the engine.. I gave the motor a coat of plasti-dip. Dried to a satiny flat black finish, seems pretty durable, and cost $8.00..
If you don't want to buy a new elbow, or take the time to remove and replace a part that is not leaking, I'd try to mask off the area to prevent overspray, and give it a couple coats of this stuff. Being a rubber based product, it ought to handle stone chips, and it seems to stick to anything that is clean, and dry. If you don't like it, it removes easily...
If you don't want to buy a new elbow, or take the time to remove and replace a part that is not leaking, I'd try to mask off the area to prevent overspray, and give it a couple coats of this stuff. Being a rubber based product, it ought to handle stone chips, and it seems to stick to anything that is clean, and dry. If you don't like it, it removes easily...
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