Custom Wire Loom

[Blurr]

As is want to do, I got my bike mostly buttoned up and then decided I wasn't quit done. I want to run a clean handle bar with bar end signals. This I've done before and posed no serious problems but on my casting to and frow I stumbled on to the Motogadget website. Man that's some trick stuff! I settled on the turn signals. I also noticed that if you ran this nifty little concraption you only had to run one positive and one negotive wire to the handle bar. This in conjunction with the switches would really clean up the bar nicely. The catch is you need the control panel to make it work. That's not a real problem as the control panel acts as a fuse block and has a built in alarm, it even has features like setting the blink rate or even fading in and out etc. check out some of the youtube videos.

So I bought the lot. Now I'm fiddling my way through the wiring and I'm nearly ready to admit I'm lost. My main concern is what do I have to keep and what can I loose? For example, I vaguely recall some one mentioning that the flasher relay was used for the boost. Is that true? Looking at the wiring diagram I think only the ground was attached. Also I have the ingitech cdi and am planning on picking up some cops (already have the coils out and let me just say that whoever said the front ones were a bitch to get out underplayed that one!) If I decide to remove the vboost controler and run a manual choke to retain control (for syncing or better gas mileage while cruising) of it do I still need my vacuum to run advance? I would think so but it appears to only be connected to the intake manifold and the boost controller. Also, does anyone know where I can get all these connectors so I don't have to put new ends on the stock stuff like fan and horn if I do end up running new wires to them?

I'm almost thinking it would be better to start from scratch then pull all those wires out of the loom.

EDIT: I should clarify, you only need the panel to run the one wire setup the button switches and turn signals work fine if you wire them separately too.

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

Looks like it is a multiplexing system for the bike. Pretty cool!

 

[PATMAX]

I'm not interested in going all out like you but have mentioned in other threads about stripping a factory harness down to its bare essentials for a Dragbike project. There is quite a bit we can "unload" or discard but you have to decide if you need headlights, high beams, signals, brake lights, fuel reserve shutoff, kickstand interrupt, horn, etc. I'd keep the fuse block though so that leaves stator wiring, boost wiring if keeping your Vboost, regulator rectifier, CDI to coils or COPS wiring, and ignition which could be simplified (rocker switch) and key cylinder eliminated but its not a huge weight savings to keep the ignition cylinder. I guess the question is how street legal do you want to be? and is being able to go back to stock an issue for the future.
A trick from Hot Rod magazine is to layout a stock harness on a 4x8 sheet of plywood and draw in the routing, the location and the function of the wiring loom. Sink a screw or nail to approximate the harness layout and loosely zip tie the loom to the screw and unwrap the whole thing and eliminate what you don't need or want. Sorta reverse engineering I guess. You'll be amazed at how little you need to actually run the bike.

 

[dutyhole]

still waiting to hear back from you about the sissy bar ...............................

 

[PATMAX]

Thought I sent the pics already in a PM. I'll throw some up here. Perfect pad, fresh screw set included.

When in doubt...Gas it !!!

 

[AMechEng]

Whats up with the first braced swingarm?

 

[Blurr]

I'm not interested in going all out like you but have mentioned in other threads about stripping a factory harness down to its bare essentials for a Dragbike project. There is quite a bit we can "unload" or discard but you have to decide if you need headlights, high beams, signals, brake lights, fuel reserve shutoff, kickstand interrupt, horn, etc. I'd keep the fuse block though so that leaves stator wiring, boost wiring if keeping your Vboost, regulator rectifier, CDI to coils or COPS wiring, and ignition which could be simplified (rocker switch) and key cylinder eliminated but its not a huge weight savings to keep the ignition cylinder. I guess the question is how street legal do you want to be? and is being able to go back to stock an issue for the future.
A trick from Hot Rod magazine is to layout a stock harness on a 4x8 sheet of plywood and draw in the routing, the location and the function of the wiring loom. Sink a screw or nail to approximate the harness layout and loosely zip tie the loom to the screw and unwrap the whole thing and eliminate what you don't need or want. Sorta reverse engineering I guess. You'll be amazed at how little you need to actually run the bike.

Oh! Hey that really makes it a lot simpler. I've been a bit leery about how I was going to map all those wires... I've decided to go with the RFID keyless cuz I'm a nut and like cutting weight. I am still on the fence about an aluminum frame. I'm on a diet myself and down 27 lb, OCD for the win. I am trying to be somewhat sensible, I justify the belly pan cuz I need SOMETHING to hide the god awful eyesore of a horn. Now I just need to get to work!

My plan is to lose the reserve, kickstand, and thinking about vboost (manual control) but keep the required items for street legal requirement. Going back to stock isn't an issue for me since if I ever get rid of this thing it will be parted out.