Hello,happy new year to everyone I am new in the forum and I leave in Greece.I have a v max 97 model and my engine looks old the black paint has been destroyed in a few places.I am asking i f anyone has repainted the engine what was the procedure he followed and the materials used (sandblast, type of Colours etc )I don't like the the matt color which is used by many because of the high resistance temperature I like the factory look maybe a semi glossy or glossy color.Is there such a color with resistance temperature specs.Thank you advance...
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PaulVmax
Well-Known Member
i am on painting my engine i used brake cleaner wire brush and wire wool to get a good surface before painting
We bead blast and then paint the engine with automotive paint. Our facebook albums show more of the process and I am sure there are other threads on here showing it too.
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
If this is going to be an 'at home' re-spray then I have done the following:
Remove the parts you want to re-paint. Whilst it is possible to do in situ there will be areas that will be very difficult to prepare and unless your masking is exemplary the final effect will be compromised.
You now have a pile of parts. To de-grease I use Mrs Midnights dishwasher which does a fine job particularly if she isn't in. If you are doing the generator cover then strip out the stator and pick-ups etc. first.
Start with some 1200 grit W & D and feather the edges twixt paint and bare metal. If you can feel a ridge with your finger then you need to rub some more as this will show up when re-painting.
Try to leave a thin coat of the original paint. I work on the principal that it is only necessary to remove flaking paint. If paint has stayed on the casing since '97 then it is reasonable to assume it has good adhesion.
You should now have a pile of components with a nice smooth finish. Spending extra at the preparation stage will reap dividends. Carefully mask any areas that you don't want painted.
I have had good success with VHT paints, the gloss black has stayed in good condition on my cases for some ten years.
De-grease the components and use a tack rag to remove any dirt or dust. I use an old cardboard box suitably cut as a spray booth which minimises the amount of overspray that escapes.
Use a mask when spraying and apply several thin coats. I have never bothered with a primer coat with the VHT product.
You are aiming to put only enough paint on so that you can't see the base surface. Put it on too thick and you will be more likely to get sags and runs and once dry it will chip easier and may even craze.
The above is best done when your nearest and dearest will be away for several hours. For some reason they don't like the smell of paint and object when the oven is used to cure the parts.
If you are happy with your work then you could stop at this point.
However, if you want to go the extra mile then obtain some micro-mesh wet and dry. Add an extra couple of coats if you are doing this.
Carefully rub down your freshly painted and cured items. DO NOT rub hard. Start with the 1200 grit, using a block to support the paper.
Then use the next finer grit- the aim is only to remove the rubbing marks from the previous stage.
As you work your way through the grits a shine will start to emerge and by the time you get to 12000 (which makes paper seem rough) your part will have a deep glass like finish.
There is a lot of extra work but (IMHO) well worth the effort.
So there you are - fabulous looking covers for little cost but a fair bit of time and effort.
Remove the parts you want to re-paint. Whilst it is possible to do in situ there will be areas that will be very difficult to prepare and unless your masking is exemplary the final effect will be compromised.
You now have a pile of parts. To de-grease I use Mrs Midnights dishwasher which does a fine job particularly if she isn't in. If you are doing the generator cover then strip out the stator and pick-ups etc. first.
Start with some 1200 grit W & D and feather the edges twixt paint and bare metal. If you can feel a ridge with your finger then you need to rub some more as this will show up when re-painting.
Try to leave a thin coat of the original paint. I work on the principal that it is only necessary to remove flaking paint. If paint has stayed on the casing since '97 then it is reasonable to assume it has good adhesion.
You should now have a pile of components with a nice smooth finish. Spending extra at the preparation stage will reap dividends. Carefully mask any areas that you don't want painted.
I have had good success with VHT paints, the gloss black has stayed in good condition on my cases for some ten years.
De-grease the components and use a tack rag to remove any dirt or dust. I use an old cardboard box suitably cut as a spray booth which minimises the amount of overspray that escapes.
Use a mask when spraying and apply several thin coats. I have never bothered with a primer coat with the VHT product.
You are aiming to put only enough paint on so that you can't see the base surface. Put it on too thick and you will be more likely to get sags and runs and once dry it will chip easier and may even craze.
The above is best done when your nearest and dearest will be away for several hours. For some reason they don't like the smell of paint and object when the oven is used to cure the parts.
If you are happy with your work then you could stop at this point.
However, if you want to go the extra mile then obtain some micro-mesh wet and dry. Add an extra couple of coats if you are doing this.
Carefully rub down your freshly painted and cured items. DO NOT rub hard. Start with the 1200 grit, using a block to support the paper.
Then use the next finer grit- the aim is only to remove the rubbing marks from the previous stage.
As you work your way through the grits a shine will start to emerge and by the time you get to 12000 (which makes paper seem rough) your part will have a deep glass like finish.
There is a lot of extra work but (IMHO) well worth the effort.
So there you are - fabulous looking covers for little cost but a fair bit of time and effort.
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