How hard is it to remove the engine from an '89? I am doing a lot of chrome work, paint, and other cosmetic mods. Last night I pulled the valve covers and I think I ONLY said 348 cuss words and it ONLY took me over 3 hours! :bang head: I am removing the carbs to send them to Mark. While the rest of the bike is in the shop getting paint, I would really like to repaint the motor the proper way and make it look good! Since I have done all of this stuff, how much more is involved in removing the motor? I know, I know, it is heavy and I have that taken care of. I just want to know what else to remove. Is there a write up somewhere? Thanks guys!
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its not really all that bad, just make sure to mark and label parts and
wiring plugs.
I labeled everything and put bolts in platic bags for each part I took off than labeled them. two people to yank out the motor with a floor jack and wood or piano dolly would make life easier
wiring plugs.
I labeled everything and put bolts in platic bags for each part I took off than labeled them. two people to yank out the motor with a floor jack and wood or piano dolly would make life easier
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
It's probably harder to remove those valve cover than it is to remove the whole engine.
Exactly!!!
Record for me so far is 1 hour for engine removal. That's from starting with it on the dyno rollers to removed from the frame. I had one person helping that I didn't have to tell what to do to get it done (which helps big time).
Normally, if you are taking your time you want to plan 4 hours or so for removal. I have block off plates you can borrow as well for the bead blasting and paint work. We even have a shim kit you can borrow to set the valves while it's apart.
Of course we sell everything needed to get it together as well as about anything else you'd want.
You will want to remove the swingarm setup long enough to extract the mid gear assembly (including the ujoint). This will make engine removal a breeze and even can be done with one person and a floor jack.
If you have a centerstand you can leave the swingarm off and leave it on the stand. OR, you can remove all that stuff and use long bolts sticking through the original muffler mounting locations in the rear peg brackets and set them on jackstands.
I can help with other tips as needed (like you don't need to remove the radiator like the manual states if you do the above mentioned steps.
Sean
sdt354
Well-Known Member
I found removing the exhust header boltson the front cylinders gave me more room and helped preserve the frame. A hint from Rusty Mcneil I think, was to hang the engine.
Sean, 1 hour is flying. I will remove the middle gear next time for sure. Less blood that way.
Steve-o
Sean, 1 hour is flying. I will remove the middle gear next time for sure. Less blood that way.
Steve-o
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Seans suggestions work. Removing the swingarm and output shaft from the back of the motor make it pretty easy to pull the motor out by yourself with nothing more than a floor jack and a block of wood. I removed the radiator, it only a couple more bolts and makes things easier IMO.
The hardest part is getting it off the jack and where you want to put it. I hoisted off the jack with a come a long, put it into a stand I build out of unistrut, put the stand on a dolly, wheeled it to my truck and then lifted it into the truck bed by myself. My back hurt for about a week after that! Coming out of the truck wasn't as bad, I put a 2x10 on tailgate and the stand slid down it pretty easily.
The hardest part is getting it off the jack and where you want to put it. I hoisted off the jack with a come a long, put it into a stand I build out of unistrut, put the stand on a dolly, wheeled it to my truck and then lifted it into the truck bed by myself. My back hurt for about a week after that! Coming out of the truck wasn't as bad, I put a 2x10 on tailgate and the stand slid down it pretty easily.
working on a how to
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Actually my findings are that is better to instal the frame onto engine.
Kinda reverse mechanics and you need to take of some things...but you need to take them
of anyway so I guess It may be a good advice...
For me this is the only damage/scratch free way which I decieded to follow after my first attempt.
Kinda reverse mechanics and you need to take of some things...but you need to take them
of anyway so I guess It may be a good advice...
For me this is the only damage/scratch free way which I decieded to follow after my first attempt.
Redbone
Well-Known Member
That worked for me too, both removing and installing. I also picked it up and put it in the back of my truck, I won't be doing that again! LOL Best way to move when out of the bike is with a couple pipes through motor mounts and TWO people! :biglaugh:
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
No biggie there. Once everything is unplugged your left with about a foot long tail of wires just coil it up and zip tie it out of the way.
Absolutely yes on removing the output from the engine. I pulled mine in about two hours by myself. And installed it in about the same also by myself.
