Fixing the 'Splice' for Improved Charging
- Thread starter medicineman843
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firefly
Well-Known Member
That crimp fix assumes that the poor charging voltage is due to weak positive which misses the point completely, the problem with max harness is the grounding, when I did this fix volt gains were negligible, less than 0.5 volts but after I did the RR direct connection fix volts went up to consistent 14.20 + volts.
it makes sense since all the stator out put is passing through the RR to feed the battery so connecting the red RR directly to +ve battery terminal & the black RR connected to a good grounding point on the frame NOT the -ve battery (you want to feed the frame with a healthy -ve to feed all other grounded circuits.)
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MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Sorry if I'm being a bit thick here but...
The red wire from the R/R already goes through the main (30 amp) fuse to the battery AND it also goes to the ignition switch.
Unless I have missed the point, all you appear to be doing is replacing one 30 amp fuse with another but also you have removed the feed to the ignition switch which means the bike can't run?
Please enlighten me.
The red wire from the R/R already goes through the main (30 amp) fuse to the battery AND it also goes to the ignition switch.
Unless I have missed the point, all you appear to be doing is replacing one 30 amp fuse with another but also you have removed the feed to the ignition switch which means the bike can't run?
Please enlighten me.
firefly
Well-Known Member
OK, if you look at the +ve battery terminal it has a RED wire connecting to the ignition & main fuse, this remains the same, the RR has two wires red & black with connectors, disconnect these connectors leaving the harness side unconnected wrapped in some kind of insulator or big shrink tube. the RR red & black connectors are to be cut and connected as mentioned before.
the 30 amp stock fuse is also working you add another 30 amp to the Red RR as close as possible to the +ve battery terminal, you don't want to run a +ve carrying wire unprotected by a fuse.
Yes the bike runs & has 14.20+ volts, this is a proven method to fix your charging voltage & the hot starting problem.
I did that fix 3 years ago & my bike starts every day with 14.20 + volts, soldering the stator to RR connectors can yield an additional 0.20 volts to the equation.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Where are you suggesting to attach the - to the frame?
firefly
Well-Known Member
I put an eyelet terminal on the black RR wire and used the side cover screw to hold the terminal sandwiched between the frame & side cover, I felt no need to extend the wire further to ground it somewhere else, I only extend the red RR wire and place an in line 30 amp fuse as close to the +ve battery terminal as possible. I don't recommend grounding the RR -ve directly to the -ve battery terminal, just the +ve.
when I did the mod I extended the +ve RR wire & attached it to the +ve bat terminal while keeping the RR -ve plug stock (thinking like all of us do its the positive that's important) that yielded an increase from 12.6 volts to 13.00 volts 0.4 volts, then I cut the RR -ve connector & grounded it to the frame I got 14.20 to 14.30 volts instantly, 1.3 volt increase, this made me pay more attention to grounding.
medicineman843
Well-Known Member
I am currently am doing this mod. Just to make sure i'm correct before i blow a fuse... I couldn't find the black wire... Instead there was a long grayish wire grounded from the battery to the left corner of the rr. So i grounded the wire from the bat to the frame under the seat. Then cut the red wire and solder to the 30 inline fuse to +battery... CORRECT???? Haven't tried it yet but only putting out 12.89...Before
firefly
Well-Known Member
Your bike has the old style RR that gray wire was probably added by the previous owner, remove it from the battery and ground it to a good point on the frame, cut the red RR wire connector and extended it placing a 30 amp fuse close to the +ve battery terminal. leave the harness connector to the RR red wire unplugged.
also clean the mounting surface of the foot pegs and spray some WD-40 in them.
Make sure the battery if fully charged.
I hope that helps.
medicineman843
Well-Known Member
Yes Sir! 14.45!!! Fired right up and sounded like it had a little more Getty up! Thanks you soo much for the advice! $2.00 Fix....
firefly
Well-Known Member
you are lucky because you're open minded, some people after reading this information still go replacing the stator, the battery and go for an R1 RR and still don't get close to 14 volts.
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Becouse in most part of cases it is the problem....
firefly
Well-Known Member
Make sure your battery is fully charged, if you have the old style RR with no black grounding wire, attach a grounding wire to its body and ground it to a good point on the frame.
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firefly
Well-Known Member
The opposite is true, 99% of weak charging cases are due to bad grounding of the RR, the 1% are stator, RR going bad because of the bad grounding finally fried them, you hear about stator connectors melting, this is because the RR is not feeding the ground properly.
I did the splice fix & can say it is a joke & does nothing to fix charging voltage, some even say get a bigger gauge grounding wire or a starter wire all these solutions are actually no solutions to the problem, if you don't see 14+ volts your charging is not working properly.
stock components stator & RR are more than adequate to supply 14+ volts with no need for a higher output stator or an R1 RR. I actually have a brand new R1 RR I never installed because this simple fix gave me 14.30 volts consistently.
many on this forum & other forums tried this simple fix & it worked for them pretty well yielding 14+ volts.
which is better spending $$$ replacing stator, RR & battery or buying a $3.00 in line fuse and wire?
Some people like to do everything but the obvious, for these people buying an R1 RR & a high output stator is the ONLY solution.
satariel666
Well-Known Member
I would say its about 50% to bad stators, 30% to bad RR and 20% to other like bad grounding or bad wire connection. Mostaly Im finding stators wired poorly or cracked in core insulation.
While rewinding stator shops changes only the wires but dont bother to inspect the core - in most cases core need to be reinsulated which means BURN out the old insulation to ashes and insulate it for a new - not just seal the crack with epoxy.
I hope you do understand what im sayin....
firefly
Well-Known Member
The dealer was saying that the stator wire insulation gets damaged by heat and starts the self destructing process of shorting, whatever it is in most cases its the grounding which eventually destroys the RR & stator.
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
Save your breath Prez. If you knew who you were discussing this with you would realize that nothing you say will change his mind. I am with you that it is often a combination of things that cause low voltage, up to and including adding too much of a load on the system with gadgets. A good ground setup, good R/R, and a good stator are all a must for your charging system to work properly. To show how inefficient the old style R/R is just check out the size of the heat sink fins, bigger the fins the more heat produced by the R/R which is wasted wattage that would otherwise be used by the electrical system. The crimp fix does help if the crimp is a bit loose or corroded on your bike, otherwise you will reap no benefit. If your R/R is grounded properly adding another ground will buy you nothing. When I went to the ZX6R R/R I wired it directly to the battery with 14g wire just to make sure I got the maximum to the system that I can. My R/R is under my left scoop and at worst gets warm to the touch when under load, and that is without air flowing across it (the cooling fins are very small). Age, heat from the oil, and internal cracking of the insulation are all things that will take out a stator. Grounding of the R/R is just another in the list. Anything you can do to improve the performance of the charging system is a plus, including the crimp fix.
Rollie
Well-Known Member
Agree Jim , some don't care about the solution , it's the argument - stirring the pot that makes their day . " Arguing with a liberal / idiot only brings you down to their level where they beat you with experience ". :rofl_200:
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Aye sir, I have heard some stories about him :biglaugh:
Im not an easy guy either but I havent drawn in the whiskey yet :rofl_200:
I have the same setup, RR under left scoop, just where v-boost controler should be. I bealive mine also comes from kawasaki - they are all Shindingen anyway so not much diffrence from where they came.
What I have on charging is about 13,8 V and I dont see and sense of seaking for half volt - for some this may be a greatest finding in thier life
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
Run the black (-) wire from the R/R unit directly to the battery NEG (-) terminal, and things will work even better. Bad connections can be in either the + or - wiring. This eliminates all possibility of a wiring harness or bad ground defect lowering the charging voltage. Remember, the electricity has to go BACK to the R/R unit via the ground circuit.
I don't have to mention that all connections must be SOLDERED and WELL INSULATED, do I?
I don't have to mention that all connections must be SOLDERED and WELL INSULATED, do I?
