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mOBSCENE

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So I just bought a used 2002 vmax. I was looking over the book and noticed you could add air to the front forks. Pull the cap off and look what I found. Is this a common issue? Should I try ordering the shrader core?
 

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shrader core? we were just talking about this mod i believe...
 
I was wondering if this might be the preload adjuster mod, but not sure, I would have thought there would be a locking nut on the center bolt.
I think possibly it might just be a bolt that replaced the schrader valve??
 
Probably has aftermarket springs and did away with the valves. Don't know why as I changed the springs on both my Maxes and just left the valves in and never added air. Sometimes I bleed the valves as a little pressure can build up over time.
 
So I just bought a used 2002 vmax. I was looking over the book and noticed you could add air to the front forks. Pull the cap off and look what I found. Is this a common issue? Should I try ordering the shrader core?
LOOKS CROSS THREADED TO ME :confused2:
 
Probably has aftermarket springs and did away with the valves. Don't know why as I changed the springs on both my Maxes and just left the valves in and never added air. Sometimes I bleed the valves as a little pressure can build up over time.


This never occurred to me, but it does make sense....gonna check it today.
 
Probably has aftermarket springs and did away with the valves. Don't know why as I changed the springs on both my Maxes and just left the valves in and never added air. Sometimes I bleed the valves as a little pressure can build up over time.

This never occurred to me, but it does make sense....gonna check it today.
I get a little "pfft" of air each time I hit the air valve on mine too.
 
I dont think it was modded. The bike is completely stock. And the other side has the Shrader plug!
 
Probably has aftermarket springs and did away with the valves. Don't know why as I changed the springs on both my Maxes and just left the valves in and never added air. Sometimes I bleed the valves as a little pressure can build up over time.

+1. I thought about a permanent vent at the shrader(changed my mind), but the little pressure might not be a bad thing. A little pressure built up might help keep moisture out. I purge it too, but it builds again. It doesn't take long for the oil to turn to crap. It's never clean when I drain it.
Steve-o
 
+1. I thought about a permanent vent at the shrader(changed my mind), but the little pressure might not be a bad thing. A little pressure built up might help keep moisture out. I purge it too, but it builds again. It doesn't take long for the oil to turn to crap. It's never clean when I drain it.
Steve-o

The graphite, or whatever that stuff is on the surface of the piston, wears off turning the oil black in no time. It'll leave dark grey sludgy deposits in the bottom of the outer tube and should be rinsed out with denatured alky or something similar at every oil change.
 
as a plumber/pipefitter i can definitely tell you those threads are FUCKED. thats a metric bolt and what should be there is a 1/8" npt pipe thread. the pipe thread and fitting both taper inwards so as you tighten the fitting the threads get tighter as you go. a bolt has running threads so it will tighten only when it stops at the head or bottoms out. you may be in trouble to fix this one. the 1/8" npt threads are nowhere near the same pitch or run as the metric bolt. you could try retapping to 1/8 but you cant go far or else your fitting will never seal, might work tho. but your best bet, could be to drill it out and re thread to 1/4" npt, and find a 1/4" npt schrader valve that fits. or progressive springs and say to hell with air. sorry to break this news bud, good luck. sean may have other ideas here?

peace,
evan...
 
Your options would be to:

Drill and tap to larger (which I wouldn't do)
Weld up and redrill (which I wouldn't waste my time)
Get a used cap from me (which is the by far easiest thing to do).

AND, don't run any air pressure. Just good springs and fluid.

Sean
 
Your options would be to:

Drill and tap to larger (which I wouldn't do)
Weld up and redrill (which I wouldn't waste my time)
Get a used cap from me (which is the by far easiest thing to do).

AND, don't run any air pressure. Just good springs and fluid.

Sean


This is, by far, the easiest....and cheapest, option available! I would also recommend a fork oil change as it's likely that bolt shaved off some aluminum on the way in.
 
as a plumber/pipefitter i can definitely tell you those threads are FUCKED. thats a metric bolt and what should be there is a 1/8" npt pipe thread. the pipe thread and fitting both taper inwards so as you tighten the fitting the threads get tighter as you go. a bolt has running threads so it will tighten only when it stops at the head or bottoms out. you may be in trouble to fix this one. the 1/8" npt threads are nowhere near the same pitch or run as the metric bolt. you could try retapping to 1/8 but you cant go far or else your fitting will never seal, might work tho. but your best bet, could be to drill it out and re thread to 1/4" npt, and find a 1/4" npt schrader valve that fits. or progressive springs and say to hell with air. sorry to break this news bud, good luck. sean may have other ideas here?

peace,
evan...

Thanks for the info. Having a metric bolt jammed in there doesnt surprise me. He also had about 4 other SAE bolts fucked in other spots on the bike.
 
it didnt occur to me those caps were replaceable. i would definately get a used cap from sean in that case, that would be the easiest and probably cheapest option.

cheers,
evan...
 
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