HDKilla's Bike - Solid Motor Mounts and Springs

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hubeerjw

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All, Abe and I need your help on a few things. Should we put solid motor mounts on this bike? I am doing this on my drag bike, but I didn't know how much vibration this causes and if the frame strengthing out-weighs the negatives. I personally like to "feel" the bike, just as long as parts aren't falling off.

Second, we are going to upgrade his front end. New rotors, new brakes, and I am going to weld shut the cross-member that allows air to pass between the forks. What do you recommend as far as springs / fork internals. This is an 85 so it has the smaller forks. Also, should we be looking to lower it a few inches? (besides maybe an inch or so in the triples).

Any input you have is much appreciated!

Jeff
 
I would definately do the solid motor mounts. I did not notice that much more vibration.

Personally I like the stock springs and air adjustment on the 85. It allowed me to lower or raise the front with air adjust.
 
I've been wondering myself about how much vibes the solid mounts introduce, because I do a lot of miles. Hard to say without actually having a real life comparison. Maybe this weekend at Thunder by the Bay I might run into a Maxxer with solids and talk 'em into letting me find out..
Also, I feel it depends on how you're gonna ride it. Since I do 90% straight line here in FL, I dunno how much solids mounts would be of help to me..

Re the forks, I have Progressive springs in my '86, and 15W fork oil. This setup feels fine to me, although my bike came with the Progs so again it's hard for me to compare with the stocks. I still have the air thingy on mine but have no air in the forks, and that by itself lowers the bike by about an inch because with the bike + my weight, the forks do not fully extend back unless I'm accelerating really hard.
 
I have frame braces ONLY which I did as I didn't want to pull the motor on my new bike to do the mounts. From the stories I've heard on the solid mounts I wouldn't want them. I would maybe go polyurethane or Delrin. My hands already go numb on ALL bikes so more small vibes would be VERY bad to me.

On the front end I would do all race-tech internals. I prefer straight rate springs over progressive. Just my opinion. The stock setup leaves A LOT to be desired and everyone that I know that puts springs and oil in there bike loves them. Internal lowering is the only real smooth way to do the early bikes as they have that cross over valve for the air. Otherwise you have to fill the hole with something. Leave that part stock but lower internally and don't add air.

Use ONLY stock Yamaha fork seals.

How about some bars? I like my Flanders. To me they are more comfy than stock by a long shot. Plus they look cool! lol

Chris
 
I run solid motor mounts and can say that yes you will feel more vibration. It is really a personal preference between mounts or frame braces. If you go with braces be sure to buy a good set!! Know a few guys who swear by Furbur's (of course there are folks that swear at Furbur so use your judgement there too) because of the welded tab. Clamp on braces can move around on you. If you don't mind some more vibration, which can be minimized with a bar snake, and you have the time do the mounts.

As for the front end, if you are staying with stock appearence Chris has said all that needs to be said. I would consider upgrading to a newer front end if one can be found reasonably priced (I just sold mine done up right for $350 less fork brace).
 
Barsnake is a polimer filler (basically a tube, that you lube then slide through the bars) that deadens vibrations.

Sounds like something I'll want to invest into. For the usually bent Vmax bars, is the normal one ok or do we need to go with liquid?
 
Sounds like something I'll want to invest into. For the usually bent Vmax bars, is the normal one ok or do we need to go with liquid?

The normal one should be fine, be sure to measure the inside of your bars first, some are thinner walled then others. I put it in my drag bars. I got away with the ST 1 kit, if your a little thinner walled st 2 is for U.

the main thing is to follow the instructions. My hands were numbing after 15-20 mins of riding, now I can ride for a few hours before giving my hands a break. I was all prepared to buy these expensive grips, gloves and such, then Chris turned me on to this. Best $35 you can buy for your bars IMO.
 
On the front end I would do all race-tech internals. I prefer straight rate springs over progressive. Just my opinion. The stock setup leaves A LOT to be desired and everyone that I know that puts springs and oil in there bike loves them. Internal lowering is the only real smooth way to do the early bikes as they have that cross over valve for the air. Otherwise you have to fill the hole with something. Leave that part stock but lower internally and don't add air.

Use ONLY stock Yamaha fork seals.

How about some bars? I like my Flanders. To me they are more comfy than stock by a long shot. Plus they look cool! lol

Chris
+ to Chris' statement!
I have a '92 that I went from stock front end setup to a 2' Progressive spring lowered, silkolene 15wt oil, and Python drag bars. The transformation for me was improved riding position, front wheel grip in corners, and overall more stable feeling at all speeds.
My Python drag bars are not as wide (little over a inch wider I think) as you can get the flanders in a much greater variety of shapes, widths and diameters. Cost is another difference too, pyton bars can be had for under $20, flanders are going to run you over $100.
I just picked up a fork brace, so maybe that will add some steering precision in the high speed corners as I try to keep up with my sport bike buddies. My front end would react slower than I would like when I was making line chages in corners due bumps/ rocks/ hardley doingitson's in the way.:biglaugh:
 
I filled my last inline four bike handlebars with lead shot (the smallest size buckshot) and it totally stopped the vibes. The Max doesn't have as much vibration though.

The buckshot is cheap and fills all size and shapes of bars. Have to be careful as they go everywhere if you spill them. :doh:
 
Jeff,

I was just coming on here to start this thread and being the motivator you are you beat me to it!

Anyways, based off what I read I would like to NOT do the solid motor mounts and wanted to ask what you thought of my stockers? Do they look bad? If so maybe we can replace those with something that similar to stock but better?

I would also like to go with what 4gasm mentioned on the front end. How far should the bike be lowered?

Thanks,
Abe
 
I filled my last inline four bike handlebars with lead shot (the smallest size buckshot) and it totally stopped the vibes.

I thought about something like that, but that sure is a lot of extra weight, no?

Those polymer bar snakes can't be that heavy, or are they? :ummm:

Soz 'bout the :hijacked: Abe..
 
It is heavy but works. Also puts more weight on the front end which helps in certain situations. :biglaugh:
 
Honestly after a few miles I stopped noticing the vibration cause by the solid mounts. It cures a lot of the chassis flopping around feeling, and makes the bike feel more solid everywhere. The mirrors start to get blurry around 5,500 RPMS, but If I take it that high I'm on the gas and not looking behind me. Pulling the clutch in gives me the ability to look quickly if need be. At idle I can't feel the difference. If you think that the vibration is too much after solid mounts ride an older Buell XB12R with the solid mounted Evo engine. Its like riding an unbalanced washing machine during an earthquake, at all RPMs. Everything on that bike must be put together with Red Loctite to stay in one piece.

I choose the Progressive springs when I did mine w/ 15wt oil. $55 is really cheap, and think those would work fine. The average V-Max rider won't notice a difference between the Progressives and Race Techs in every day riding. A professional rider might notice the difference during a track day, but I sure didn't after riding both on the street.
 
I agree with 4gasem.

The key thing is to get straight rate springs.

Whent I went to inverted forks i did a lot of research on springs and talked to Ohlins, Works and Race tech Lindeman Engineering and a local guy here who worked for a Yamaha Snowmobile race team and worked with the founder of Ohlins.

I ended up going to a one man custom shop in Cali, Lindeman Engineering. http://www.le-suspension.com/ He does custom suspension for alot of the pro racers. The bikes that he builds suspension for have won more first place AMA titles than Race tech or ohlins. He is a super nice guy.

he and the others told me it doesnt matter where you get the springs. Its all in the valving. and straight rate is the way to go, wether your racing or not.

I would lower them an inch

You might want to consider installing emulators. Emulators and springs could be had for under 200.00, i believe, through race tech with vmoa discount.

Can you put emulators in an 85 though?? anyone


On the front end I would do all race-tech internals. I prefer straight rate springs over progressive. Just my opinion.

Use ONLY stock Yamaha fork seals.

How about some bars? I like my Flanders. To me they are more comfy than stock by a long shot. Plus they look cool! lol

Chris
 
Abe, I would also recommend the solid motor mounts - one of the best improvements that I made on my bike - as far as front end - progressive or race-tech springs with valve emulators and 15wt oil and some good quality rear shocks and you'll have a total different animal.

Mike
 
Silicone caulk or sand in the bars works also.

When you say silicon caulk, do you mean:

- that foamy stuff that turns into a solid substance when it cures (used to fill holes in walls around plumbing pipes)

or

- that gooey silicon stuff in a gun that stays supple used around sinks and bath tubs?
 
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