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Decter
Well-Known Member
Does it have any negative affects on the longevity of the engine?
How much would it cost to pull off?
How much would it cost to pull off?
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Sean can probably answer that better than anyone else (One2dmax). He sells all of the stuff that you need.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I'm not trying to discourage you from doing upgrades to your Vmax....but upgrades to the Vmax are expensive.
HP upgrades are nice, but one thing to think of....140 hp (at the rear wheel) with the stock front springs, stock brakes...etc...might get a little bit scary.
HP upgrades are nice, but one thing to think of....140 hp (at the rear wheel) with the stock front springs, stock brakes...etc...might get a little bit scary.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
A blower or a supercharger on a stock engine with it's 10.5:1 compression ratio is probably limited to about 5-8 psi max. The CR is too high too run much more boost than that. And doing that on a stock motor would probably cost you about $5000 counting all the dimes and nickels needed to sort it out completely.
A blower would probably be somewhat less than whatever a supercharge setup costs to complete it.
That approx. $5K cost in my opinion would be better spent on a big bore motor which would make more HP than a stock SC or turbocharged motor.
If you go "whole hog" on a
complete engine build that would allow you to run much higher boost with a SC or turbocharger then the HP numbers can be super high but the cost can be pushing $10,000 or more counting the
motor build and the SC or blower.
I do not think you are ever going to get more than 125-130 rwhp out of a Vmax with just bolt ons without going inside the motor, and 130 is being pretty optimistic,
I think cams at least would be required on an otherwise stock motor with all the bolt ons and "very we'll sorted" to break 135+
And for the record, and anyone can correct me if I'm wrong, but no one sells a complete turnkey turbocharger system that is "ready to go" For anyone but the consummate and experienced Vmax mechanic.
The S/C's are more "turn key" systems but can you even buy them anymore? Is anyone making them or supporting them?
A blower would probably be somewhat less than whatever a supercharge setup costs to complete it.
That approx. $5K cost in my opinion would be better spent on a big bore motor which would make more HP than a stock SC or turbocharged motor.
If you go "whole hog" on a
complete engine build that would allow you to run much higher boost with a SC or turbocharger then the HP numbers can be super high but the cost can be pushing $10,000 or more counting the
motor build and the SC or blower.
I do not think you are ever going to get more than 125-130 rwhp out of a Vmax with just bolt ons without going inside the motor, and 130 is being pretty optimistic,
I think cams at least would be required on an otherwise stock motor with all the bolt ons and "very we'll sorted" to break 135+
And for the record, and anyone can correct me if I'm wrong, but no one sells a complete turnkey turbocharger system that is "ready to go" For anyone but the consummate and experienced Vmax mechanic.
The S/C's are more "turn key" systems but can you even buy them anymore? Is anyone making them or supporting them?
Redbone
Well-Known Member
+1, that has been my goal. I took the approach of fixing my '92 by going through the brakes, suspension, frame and wheels. Sure I added an aftermarket exhaust and Sean's Muscle Jet kit but I made sure it could turn and stop first. I've dropped 3-4 times as much as I paid for my Vmax originally in '07 but now have a much better handling , stopping that has a little more power and is comfortable to ride.
Like a few of the guys mentioned that you can get more power, better handling bikes for cheaper than a Vmax, but then you wouldn't have a G1 Vmax!
By the way. Contact me for info about buying that turbo setup seen in the video as it is for sale. Couple that with low compression pistons (I have on hand) and you're going to make a lot more power!
customizedcreationz
Well-Known Member
My only thing I'd all out power. Your not going to get 195+ rear wheel hp for $4800 and have thr brakes and suspension to match it. And the ability to go 225-240 miles on a tank.
125 hp is a nice level for a vmax to be reliable.
Todd
125 hp is a nice level for a vmax to be reliable.
Todd
Decter
Well-Known Member
It sounds like most of this goes back to the adage "the cheapest way to get more HP, is to buy a bigger/faster bike." I can definitely live with 125 rwhp out of my max, especially considering the amount of torque comes with it.
Does anyone know of any unique way to get the weight on the bike down to increase my hp/kg ratio? I know an aftermarket exhaust should save me some weight, as well as light rims, but will cutting the weight of the bike alter reliability?
Does anyone know of any unique way to get the weight on the bike down to increase my hp/kg ratio? I know an aftermarket exhaust should save me some weight, as well as light rims, but will cutting the weight of the bike alter reliability?
Rollie
Well-Known Member
Most of the weight is in the motor , so not a lot to take off there. It also would help if you were the size & weight of Pee Wee Gleason too !
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
A kerker 4-1 exhaust will give you 5 to 8 hp over stock and to make it fit, you will have to remove the centerstand, which will save maybe 20 pounds.
Centerstand = 4.5 lb.
Exhaust megaphones = 24.5 lb.
Exhaust pipes = 11.5 lb.
Total = 40.5 lb.
lead-acid stock battery =8.6 lb.
Li-ion battery =2.5 lb.
savings = 6.1 lb.
So, 46+ lb. less by going to another exhaust system & a Li-ion battery (subtract the weight of your replacement exhaust). And don't forget the removal of the stock air filter box when you go Stage 7.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=31594&highlight=weight+centerstand&page=2
Exhaust megaphones = 24.5 lb.
Exhaust pipes = 11.5 lb.
Total = 40.5 lb.
lead-acid stock battery =8.6 lb.
Li-ion battery =2.5 lb.
savings = 6.1 lb.
So, 46+ lb. less by going to another exhaust system & a Li-ion battery (subtract the weight of your replacement exhaust). And don't forget the removal of the stock air filter box when you go Stage 7.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=31594&highlight=weight+centerstand&page=2
Decter
Well-Known Member
Great information, thanks all.
You guys have mentioned several aftermarket exhausts, which would you recommend and do I need to play with the jetting when I put them on? If so, what other changes will I have to make to use that exhaust or is it simply bolt on and go?
You guys have mentioned several aftermarket exhausts, which would you recommend and do I need to play with the jetting when I put them on? If so, what other changes will I have to make to use that exhaust or is it simply bolt on and go?
adambweird
Well-Known Member
If you go with slipons no changes will be needed, but youll just be getting a better sound and depending on which slipons were used, less power. A full system will require jetting changes either in the form of a Morleys Muscle Kit or a Dynojet Stage 7 kit being the most frequently used setups. Switching to flatslide carbs is also an option as well as a any one of the fuel injection setups that are out there but these options don't come cheap! Most of us run the Morleys or Stage 7. With the full systems, its pretty much a toss up with Kerker and Marks seeming to be the most popular. UFO and Voodoo are also options but are quite loud. Both these systems are practcally identical with the Voodoo setup being much cheaper. From what ive read all make nearly identical power so it comes down essentially to price, looks and sound.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Well this is what I learned after I dyno'd my bike (a stock 07) with slipons. It was 106 hp....and running a bit rich.
Per Sean...a stock Vmax is 1 step rich from the factory. So a completely stock bike (stock exhaust) you need to drop to 150 jets from 152.5's. If you run slip on's....you need to drop 1 MORE step...to 147.5's. After I went to 147's, the bike is running GOOD!!!!. Its running cleaner, faster, and the end of the slip-ons aren't sooty either.
Because CV carbs react differently, to get the most out of an exhaust system, you will need to jet down. There are several people here on this forum that are running in the 120's, with a kerker 4-1, and 147.5 jets. One of them is Spec Ops....with one of his Vmax's.
http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=22940
Per Sean...a stock Vmax is 1 step rich from the factory. So a completely stock bike (stock exhaust) you need to drop to 150 jets from 152.5's. If you run slip on's....you need to drop 1 MORE step...to 147.5's. After I went to 147's, the bike is running GOOD!!!!. Its running cleaner, faster, and the end of the slip-ons aren't sooty either.
Because CV carbs react differently, to get the most out of an exhaust system, you will need to jet down. There are several people here on this forum that are running in the 120's, with a kerker 4-1, and 147.5 jets. One of them is Spec Ops....with one of his Vmax's.
http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=22940
Decter
Well-Known Member
How difficult is it to do jetting at home? Or does it need to be done via dyno?
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
how difficult? not very. how long? prolly of weekend morning or more depending how well you "turn a wrench" and how deep your patience runs. you can re-jet pretty good at home with patience and a screw driver, but only to the "seat of your pants" point of fidelity. that is where I'm at and havent complained so far. google through the forum and the internet for the steps. basically you start of with your mains, then your needles and finally your idle mix. if you want to squeeze a couple more ponies out, you will need some kind of O2 sensor (wideband, preferrably) and an AFR meter sniffing your exhaust, which is what the dyno's gonna do and which is something you can do at home as well. scour the forum and you will find some threads where guys reveal their steps for their DIY AFR/O2 setup
gimme a few hours (am at work) and I can post some links to those forum threads. I know it can be intimidating filing through the trove.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
gimme a few hours (am at work) and I can post some links to those forum threads. I know it can be intimidating filing through the trove.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Maleko89 posted an excellent sticky on how to do it. A dyno HELPS...if you dont know if your rich, or lean, or looking for a direction to go, but there are a LOT of people on this forum that have been to the dyno, and then afterwards posted their carb and jet set up. Then you just follow the recipe that they have done.
http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3570
I did my jetting in about an hour or 2, and that was not ever doing it before, and changing the fuel filter, and taking the fuel pump apart looking for trash in it.
PATMAX
Well-Known Member
Florida Bikes
When in doubt...Gas it !!!
When in doubt...Gas it !!!
PATMAX
Well-Known Member
Florida Bikes
When in doubt...Gas it !!!
When in doubt...Gas it !!!
