My Choke won't stay on unless I'm holding it. Fixes?

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nidyanazo

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This is quite annoying when warming up the bike. I have to stand there and hold the choke on because if I take my finger off, it springs back to off (up position)

Any idea on how I can fix this? Thanks!!

DSC_0145.JPG
 
might be missing the screws and washerss on the choke to help tension it.take a pic I'm sure we can figure out what's missing.
 
I can see the screw and it seemed tight all the way, with 4 washers on it.

It may be bottoming out - try adding a 5th washer to it (usually the one closest to the lever is a plastic washer) then you should be able to tighten it a bit more and it should hold.
 
+1 to tightening the friction screw. How does the choke operate? Does it feel nice and smooth? If not, the plungers and linkage may need a clean up.
 
and is it operating all four carbs equally..
dannymax will be able to shed some light on this
 
The pic shows the outer washers but there should also be an inner washer. The bolt is a shouldered bolt and only will tighten up a specific amount before it bottoms out. Adding a very thin washer may do the job if all the other washers are in place.
***NOTE*** when applying full throttle it will cause the choke to disengage too.
 
It almost looks like two metal washers on the outboard side of the bracket, the correct configuration is:
screw head, spring, metal washer, plastic washer, activation lever, plastic washer, metal washer, carb body.

Apply a bit of lithium grease between the lever and plastic washers and tighten the tension screw.
 
Sounds like the guys think there may be a missing correct sequence of washers in-there. You can always get a thin spring washer if you decide yours is missing from a prior disassembly. A good auto parts store should have an assortment.

I have noticed that on some of the carb sets I have, it appears that the plungers, while having "fingers" for the choke plungers activate them, could be bent a bit to either open the plunger a bit more, or to synch the plungers together more-completely, to open the same amount, though they all do move a significant amount, I estimate at a quarter-inch, w/o actually measuring it.

I don't know without looking at a disassembled carb body and/or a schematic if there is just a passageway which the plunger exposes, and that the smidgen of additional vertical movement to be gained by a slight tweak of the "fingers" would not have a functional effect on the plungers' operation. In any event, the fingers are all-engaged, they all expose a good-amount of brass rod when the choke is thrown-on, and the choke function seems to be there, though in south Florida, there really isn't much need for a choke. I typically do-not even touch it, and the bike usually-starts w/a very-short crank-over if I have ridden it within the last couple of weeks. I have Gannon's COP's and a DYNA 3000 ignition box, and a Dynojet Stage 7 kit, w/a UFO 4/1 and a home-made exhaust canister because I like to be able to hear.
 
I know this is a grave dig, but I also have to hold the choke on. I have followed it through, and it appears that the shaft for the front right carb is seized. Are there any tips for how to free this up, or do I have to pull the carbs off the bike?
 
I have squirted lubricant on the shaft and worked it back and forth till freed up. WD40 works also any good lube. If sits for a while, deposits will clog up the mechanism. Shouldn't have to dismantle anything unless this doesn't work.
 
I unscrewed the cap and after some wd40 love it came free. There was some gunk but got it cleaned out with cotton swabs, lubed it up with two stroke oil and she's much happier. Of course the weather is starting to warm up lol.

I did notice there was a bit of scoring on the piston, so if it does it again I may replace.

yna9e6ur.jpg
 
I unscrewed the cap and after some wd40 love it came free. There was some gunk but got it cleaned out with cotton swabs, lubed it up with two stroke oil and she's much happier. Of course the weather is starting to warm up lol.

I did notice there was a bit of scoring on the piston, so if it does it again I may replace.

yna9e6ur.jpg
I polished mine, works great.
 
Careful with the engine oil as I am not 100% sure the seals are compatible with it. I think they are and brake fluid would be the detrimental fluid in this case.
 
A bottle of valvoline racing 2t oil is only a few
$ and won't cause any issues with carbs.

Pulled apart a 2 stroke that had sat for 22yrs (rd400) and was still lubed and immaculate inside using that oil.
 
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