My Vmax needs an attitude ajustment

[nd4topspd]

:damn angry:Ok I not a happy camper. I had to be push started 3 times on my way home from Oklahoma today. It is probably a simple fix but want your advise on the situation. Bike starts normal and great when engine is cool. Everytime I stopped for gas and tryed to start back up with engine warm it turns over maybe 3 times slow then just clicks. If I waite 30 min and let cool off it starts just like normal again cranking fast. If anyone has delt with this and can give some advise my way I would be forever in your debt :hmmm:

 

[davidon]

Vmaxbitz.com..look for hot starting problem fix kit

 

[clintard]

here you go buddy

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/crimp.htm

 

[nd4topspd]

thanks guys!! Great links and ideas. I'll get her all fixed up tomarrow :cheers:

 

[clintard]

if you have an old battery a new one wouldnt hurt either

 

[nd4topspd]

just put a new battery and reg/rec on her a month ago. she seams to be charging well. She just gets week in the knees when shes hot lol Not sure if the splice has been taken care of yet on her so I'll check it out and also beef up the ground system. It is so awesome to have a place to get help from someone that comes with personal experiance. Whoever started this forum I take my hat off to ya:thumbs up:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

just put a new battery and reg/rec on her a month ago. she seams to be charging well. She just gets week in the knees when shes hot lol Not sure if the splice has been taken care of yet on her so I'll check it out and also beef up the ground system. It is so awesome to have a place to get help from someone that comes with personal experiance. Whoever started this forum I take my hat off to ya:thumbs up:

Put a meter on the battery first thing in the morning before starting it, and then get a reading while it's running. The first number should be at least 12.5 depending on what kind of battery you're running, AGM's will run 13 or higher just sitting there for days.

While running it oughta be putting at least 13.6 or better to the battery, really should be higher but less than 14 isn't unusual for a max that hasn't had all the "fixes" and there are a lot ore than the splice/crimp fix that can be done if needed.

You can also try to get a "low" reading when trying to start it. If it dip to less than 10 volts your battery is proabably shot unless you have a really "hard to start" bike.

I'm only saying this because doing the "easy" stuff first before looking for a more complicated problem is always good.

Of course it could be a lot of other stuff too and I'm sure you'll get plenty of direction on that.

Rusty

 

[Buster Hymen]

If your charge voltage is correct and your battery is healthy, then you should pull the starter and check the condition of the brushes.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

Not too sure if a 90 has the old style, 2 pole, starter or not..... my memory is failing me yet again, but if it does you may want to look in to a new style, 4 pole, starter as well.

 

[one2dmax]

I thought the 90 model did have the better starter but the microfiche doesn't show a part number change until 2001.

Either way he may a bad starter too.

Sean

 

[jfeagins]

I don't remember where, but there is a thread on here somewhere in which a guy shows EXACTLY what to look for when you get that starter apart. It is a minor mod (tweek) to the BRUSH PLATE LOCATOR TABS that will bring about a wonderous change in the way that starter performs while hot.

I cleaned the inside of my starter, relubed where I could, and put an ever so slight bend on those little locator tabs on the brush plate so that when I reassembled the end caps of the starter, it comes into positive contact with the starter casing.

The pics of the thread showed soldering a permanent ground wire between the brush plate and starter case, but I just tweeked the connecting points for a much tighter fitting and was amazed at the difference in hot-starting my Max.

Wish I could remember the thread.

Good luck.

 

[nd4topspd]

Holy Crap I have more problems than I thought. ok here is what I have found. Finely got my fluke from work so I could do some testing. battey tested 11.70 with bike off. started it up and it tested 12.80 at 5000rpm. I shut it back off and took off the neg cable and had a 1.80 draw. I decided to check the stator so I went to unplug it and found the conection all melted. Finely got it apart and decided to see what you all think from here.Did the stator cause the melt down or is it the rectifier? when I test the stator plug with it unhooked it shows 00 on both sides.:ummm:

 

[maleko89]

When that connection gets dirty or corroded a lot of heat is generated. I would test the stator and R/R individually and then remove that connector entirely. Apply butt connectors and solder the connection. The order of the wires doesn't matter. Any of the three stator wires can connect to any of the R/R wires. Make sure you use heat shrink over each individual connection and then one bigger one over all three.

 

[nd4topspd]

ok thanks, I will go test the stator first I have a feeling that is it.

 

[nd4topspd]

well Stator checks out fine. positive on middle wire and neg to outside wire on both sides tests .40 then I checked each wire to ground and that is good. I did as you said mailko89 with the wires and then started it for a test. Still no charge to the battery. It shows same with engine off and engine running. I am guessing now it is my Reg/rec

 

[nd4topspd]

repair manual says no way to test reg/rec but to put new one on. Anyone know a way to test them?

 

[maleko89]

Did you check the AC voltage coming our of the stator wires? You can connect to any two of the three and it should be around 50 volts AC.

If that checks out, I agree....R/R is the next step.

 

[nd4topspd]

yes, I beleive book said it should be between 33 and 48 on my 90 model and it should 40 on both sides

 

[Buster Hymen]

If your stator connector was melted I'd check all the rest of the connectors and splices in the charging system before you go and buy another R/R. Also check the ground to the R/R. I can't remember the year they started with a separate ground, but if yours doesn't have a ground wire, it grounds through the case to the frame, which always sucks as a good ground.

 

[maleko89]

Yes, listen to Buster you will...wise...he is.

R/R changed design in '96. It's quite a bit larger than the old model and has cooling fins.