O-ring question

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tothemax93

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I'm going to look at mine for sure. I was researching past posts, and I read that the oil light could possibly come on more often with the o-ring blown. My light started coming on pretty easy late this season. It will be interesting to see If it's blown out. I have the kawi part No. for the o-ring. Do you have to pull the front pipes to drop the pan?
 
Unfortunately, yes, you will need the room anyhow. I found the hardest part of the whole seal was scraping the old gasket off.
 
I'm going to look at mine for sure. I was researching past posts, and I read that the oil light could possibly come on more often with the o-ring blown. My light started coming on pretty easy late this season. It will be interesting to see If it's blown out. I have the kawi part No. for the o-ring. Do you have to pull the front pipes to drop the pan?

Can't recall where I read about it, but you should look into using one of those fibre-optic inspection cameras to check the condition of the ring.
May be possible to view the ring location by using the oil drain plug or oil filter hole locations. Worth a try, before dropping the pan and/or pipes!
Cheers!
 
I heard removing the oil level sensor gives you the best angle for the bore scope....I never used one but think COPRUNNER may have, not positive tho.
 
Ok start your bike up if the oil sight glass goes down then let it warm up now if the level gose way up when hot there a good Chance it,s blown out . With the engine running the glass should stay mosley empty. You can put gauge on it .If your sight glass is not clear you can change it at this time too.
 
Trying to stuff the elbow back into the block with the kawi ring on there is like working you way into pussy on prom night. Tight fit but with a little lube and persistance it will go in. Be prepared for some bitching and moaning :biglaugh:

You may want to look into using the COO pop stopper or the "engine saver" bracket from Boxenstop. The COO piece is a bit expensive for what you get which is nothing more than a plastic disc and a gasket but, it provides peace of mind and I have no regrets on the purchase. The instructions recommend a dab of RTV to hold the part on the bottom of the elbow but I just used grease. Didn't like the idea of RTV in the oil pan if I could help it.
 
Trying to stuff the elbow back into the block with the kawi ring on there is like working you way into pussy on prom night. Tight fit but with a little lube and persistance it will go in. Be prepared for some bitching and moaning :biglaugh:

I do recall a bit of moaning but never any bitching!! :rofl_200:
 
The Boxxenstopp engine saver bracket is a great idea, even better is the PCW "Pro-Oiler" set up, that includes a tig welded assembly to keep that tube in place as well as welding up most of the oil manifold and elimination all those dumb o-ring joints. I saw one back when my friend was doing tranny work and it was very well thought out and executed.
 
I'm going to look at mine for sure. I was researching past posts, and I read that the oil light could possibly come on more often with the o-ring blown. My light started coming on pretty easy late this season. It will be interesting to see If it's blown out. I have the kawi part No. for the o-ring. Do you have to pull the front pipes to drop the pan?

Yes you need to pull front pipes they can be a bear to get back on . The best thing is to when you get the pan off take a photo then you are shure to get every thing back togather right just check photo.
 
The Boxxenstopp engine saver bracket is a great idea, even better is the PCW "Pro-Oiler" set up, that includes a tig welded assembly to keep that tube in place as well as welding up most of the oil manifold and elimination all those dumb o-ring joints. I saw one back when my friend was doing tranny work and it was very well thought out and executed.

I've heard of the product, seen the installation instructions on their website, but never actually saw the part. I'd be interested to see it and know what it costs.

Edit: Nevermind, PCW has pictures of it in their instructions.
http://www.pcwracing.net/instructions/instructions.htm
 
I'm going to look at mine for sure. I was researching past posts, and I read that the oil light could possibly come on more often with the o-ring blown. My light started coming on pretty easy late this season. It will be interesting to see If it's blown out. I have the kawi part No. for the o-ring. Do you have to pull the front pipes to drop the pan?

The oil light gives no indication of oil pressure. It's just a light triggered by a switch to indicate low volume. Under hard acceleration it's common to see the light flicker, even with the correct amount of oil in the engine. Inertia pushes oil t o the back of the pan. Still, for peace of mind, I'd want to inspect it. A bore scope is a great idea. An add on oil presssure gauge is a great thing to have too. I dropped the pan for a different reason a few years ago and the o-ring was bulging out. I put the Kawi o-ring and Seans oil pump upgrade in. I''ll do a brace next time I'm in there and possibly have all my oil tubing welded together.

Steve-o
 
Trying to stuff the elbow back into the block with the kawi ring on there is like working you way into pussy on prom night. Tight fit but with a little lube and persistance it will go in. Be prepared for some bitching and moaning :biglaugh:

So eloquently put, Mike. You should write cards for Hallmark..........:rofl_200:
 
I installed the updated OEM part. I put pictures on the site comparing the two years ago. Check them out. New assembly is on the left in the first picture. Other pics are for reference.
 

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I installed the updated OEM part. I put pictures on the site comparing the two years ago. Check them out. New assembly is on the left in the first picture. Other pics are for reference.

Is the OEM part the whole tube assembly in the center pic, or is there a shorter piece with the elbow on it?:ummm:
 
The whole assembly is one piece. I also ordered all the o-rings, etc. If you decide to go this way, K&N in Tulsa has the best prices on OEM parts. Just talk to Tyler McDonald and tell him you are a member. Use the part number from the latest parts manual to be sure you are getting the updated part.
 
So I pulled the oil level sensor out of my bike today to check the o-ring with a scope. I think I found the right tube, but the scope had a 12mm camera head so I had limited access. It was located toward the front of the engine and slightly to the right of the oil level sensor opening. It appears to be ok. I've attached a short video clip. Could someone confirm if I'm looking at the right oil tube. Sorry about the video quality I need to get a better scope.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jehWhmRPyR4

Heath
 
Kinda hard to tell for sure but it looks like the wrong elbow to me. What I saw in the video appeared to be a smooth radius 90 degree elbow. The one referred to in the thread has a flat bottom on the elbow with a rubber damper on it that presses against the oil pan.
 
Kinda hard to tell for sure but it looks like the wrong elbow to me. What I saw in the video appeared to be a smooth radius 90 degree elbow. The one referred to in the thread has a flat bottom on the elbow with a rubber damper on it that presses against the oil pan.


I agree, the fitting your looking for has a welded, sharp 90 turn, the tube coming out from the o ring you're looking for wont be curved.

I'm not positive what I saw in the video, unless it was the bearing oiling tubes.

I'm extremely jealous of your bore scope now tho' thanks a lot, you just cost me money. Haha!
 

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