Yep, you got it.
Oil sensor Unit
- Thread starter gamorg02
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- electrical oil oil sensor sensor unit
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i ahve a feeling it will be the unit, but wont be able to check for a bit.. damn noreasters. if so maybe i'll talk to sean about it. or maybe order a new OEM one and disconnect it and then change it out once the next oil change comes...
i did see tho it will be a pain in the ass.. it is routed behind and thru the middle gear cover.. ugh.:bang head:
or i could say fuck it all and mount an oil pressure gauge, eh?
i did see tho it will be a pain in the ass.. it is routed behind and thru the middle gear cover.. ugh.:bang head:
or i could say fuck it all and mount an oil pressure gauge, eh?
hey mark,
so i stopped by the bike tonight on the way home from the gym for another reason and didn't have any tools, but i did try a quick test:
(without starting the bike or anything)
key on, kill switch on, oil light on.
since i added a connector now thats under the oil pan, i just disconnected it, and low and behold the oil light went off. does that prove the sensor is making the continuity... if so i guess my sensor is bad?
so i stopped by the bike tonight on the way home from the gym for another reason and didn't have any tools, but i did try a quick test:
(without starting the bike or anything)
key on, kill switch on, oil light on.
since i added a connector now thats under the oil pan, i just disconnected it, and low and behold the oil light went off. does that prove the sensor is making the continuity... if so i guess my sensor is bad?
Garret, that's what it's looking like. With the oil switch unplugged does the light bulb still light up when you push the start button? Also, with the unit unplugged try jumping the black/red wire from the harness to black/red to oil switch. Do not reconnect black ground wire. If the oil bulb lights then there's a short between oil light and oil switch connector. Otherwise, yeah...it's your switch.
didn't push the starter button, didn't have time to let the bike start and warm up..
as far as your other test... do u mean the oil light wire coming out of the harness to the instruemtn cluster, and jump that to the (now) disconnected wire coming down under the oil pan, which would usually lead to the sensor unit? i could try that, but i think an easier way would be to next time bring my multi meter and just see if the sensor is reporting continuity, if it is than i think we found our culprit, since before (when the wire was broken) there was never a light on (not 100% sure about the starter button on tho what would happen)
thanks mark
Garrett, with your engine stop switch set to off it wouldn't start but your oil light should still come on...it's a separate circuit to check the bulb.
thanks mark i'll check in the next few days...
unfortunately i'm thinking its the $120 sensor, not a bad wire/short...
since i had this bad luck with a used one i may either try to
A. salvage mine and put a new wire on it and try it out and if it works great, if not
B. order a new one.. ugh.. altho i'd probably do the same thing and cut it short so i don't have to route teh whole wire....
unfortunately i'm thinking its the $120 sensor, not a bad wire/short...
since i had this bad luck with a used one i may either try to
A. salvage mine and put a new wire on it and try it out and if it works great, if not
B. order a new one.. ugh.. altho i'd probably do the same thing and cut it short so i don't have to route teh whole wire....
ok.. so update:
sensor plugged in, kill switch to "off", start button pressed in, no oil light
sensor unplugged, kill switch to "off", start button pressed in, no oil light
sensor unplugged, kill switch "on", oil light off
sensor plugged in, kill switch "on", oil light comes on.
from my new connection near the sensor unit, i did a continuity test and it definitely has continuity coming from the sensor itself...
so i guess we have our answer eh? i guess the final question is there anyway oil isn't getting into the sensor area or is it all one part of the oil pan and as long as i see it in the eye glass its getting to the sensor?
thanks guys (aka mark)!
sensor plugged in, kill switch to "off", start button pressed in, no oil light
sensor unplugged, kill switch to "off", start button pressed in, no oil light
sensor unplugged, kill switch "on", oil light off
sensor plugged in, kill switch "on", oil light comes on.
from my new connection near the sensor unit, i did a continuity test and it definitely has continuity coming from the sensor itself...
so i guess we have our answer eh? i guess the final question is there anyway oil isn't getting into the sensor area or is it all one part of the oil pan and as long as i see it in the eye glass its getting to the sensor?
thanks guys (aka mark)!
Garrett, you may want to test your diode assembly too. It sits on top of the ignitor. The oil light should come on when the starter button is pushed whether the kill switch is on or off.
this is going to be a dumb question but is the ignitor the two cylindrical things that sit on top of the battery?
the haynes manual says i gotta pull the air box, so am i missing something?
my manual has a little section on it for the oil sensor on the diode block, says to test light blue and yellow for 8.2 ohms. my multimeter is a cheapo, and i'm wondering if i get a reading for something other than that what my +/- could be...
one more question... so what made u think to test this, as it seems like it might be faulty? do these commonly go bad? could there have been a problem from the oil sensor unit being cut/unplugged for so long?
thanks in advance as always
the haynes manual says i gotta pull the air box, so am i missing something?
my manual has a little section on it for the oil sensor on the diode block, says to test light blue and yellow for 8.2 ohms. my multimeter is a cheapo, and i'm wondering if i get a reading for something other than that what my +/- could be...
one more question... so what made u think to test this, as it seems like it might be faulty? do these commonly go bad? could there have been a problem from the oil sensor unit being cut/unplugged for so long?
thanks in advance as always
No, those are your rear ignition coils. The four coils do plug into the ignitor though which sits in front of the air box in between the plastic heat shields that sit underneath your scoops. The diode is a pig tail that has a black square doo-hickey at the end. There are 3 diodes and a resistor in there. Two diodes are used in conjunction with sidestand switch, neutral switch, clutch switch, starter cutoff relay and sidestand relay. The other's sole purpose is to light that damn oil light when the start button is pushed. I knew I needed to test and then replace my diodes when I couldn't start my bike in gear, sidestand up and clutch pulled.
i'll do some diggin when i get a chance.. thanks for all the help mark. i'll let u know the ohm reading on the diode.. they aren't too pricey either ($25) which is nice and the bike works with it being not 100% which is good as well...
its interesting that this is all part of another issue i had (similar, maybe related u can tell me?)
the clutch lever switch (with the plunger) went bad on my bike and i couldnt' start it with clutch in, in gear and sidestand up. replacing the switch under the lever fixed the issue, but could this all be related somehow?
maybe issues with the bike being a 2k3 and sitting basically for 5 yrs since it only had 1800 miles when i picked it up?
That is correct. That circuit checks the bulb.
hmm ok:
kill switch (OFF), starter on, oil and fuel lights OFF
kill switch (ON), starter on, oil and fuel lights ON
the top one, both lights or just the oil light should go on?
I looked at wiring diagram for 2000+ and you are correct. The fuel and oil lights should not come on if engine stop switch is OFF. Early models (85-92) are wired differently. The fuel and oil lights are wired to signal fuse which is not controlled by engine stop switch. In '93 they changed it and ran it off the ignition fuse and thus the engine stop switch does affect those two lights. They also added a bulb check circuit for the fuel light. The early model circuit only checks the oil light.
ah ok good to know... thanks for all the help mark..
got a quote on a new oil level unit (price went up) at $145.. ouch. may call McCoy, but still probably going to be ~$100. i may just say fuck it all and get a COO oil pressure gauge..... 1/3 the price and much more accurate for what i want..
True! There's a sight glass too!
yup!!
still a bunch of BS for a stinking little ass sensor.... maybe i'll try to salvage the one I have and put the wire on it and put it back in the bike next oil change....
still not sure why the new to me one I got from sean is showing continuity with oil in there..
hey mark, thanks for all your help here.
just wanted to give ya an FYI, got a different sensor from Sean and it works like a charm. even had the key to on during the oil fill up and saw it turn off just like it should when the oil hit a certain level..
also, funny part is, when i took the bogus sensor out, it was reading in reverse. so, once i had it out it read no continuity with it right side up and continuity with it upside down.
i guess i could have used it as a reverse light... if the light ever goes off i'm in trouble!!:rofl_200:
just wanted to give ya an FYI, got a different sensor from Sean and it works like a charm. even had the key to on during the oil fill up and saw it turn off just like it should when the oil hit a certain level..
also, funny part is, when i took the bogus sensor out, it was reading in reverse. so, once i had it out it read no continuity with it right side up and continuity with it upside down.
i guess i could have used it as a reverse light... if the light ever goes off i'm in trouble!!:rofl_200:
