omg just found out i need a motor

[bikerchris]

I was hoping a valve adjustment would cure the ticking noise that developed in my 85 vmax so much for wishful thinking,the noise seems to be lower maybe a wrisp pin or piston slap its a pretty loud metallic tick noise only when you let off on the throttle cant really hear it when you rev it up only on return to idle,any suggestions from guys familiar with these motors would be great,thanks

 

[davesax36]

Wrist pin is apparently really fixable. You might not need a motor...

 

[spencervolk]

i had a magna v65 with a bad cam chain tensioner that made a wierd noise off load conditions....not really loud though...hows the oil in your bike....whatcha using?any smoking thru exhaust?sometimes you can use stethoscope at exhaust to hear which cylinder is culprit...

 

[bikerchris]

I used a stethoscope and found it loudest on the front left.I'm using bellray 10w40 nothing special and I have not noticed it using oil.thx

 

[one2dmax]

Probably a wrist pin if it's not making noise at all throttle positions (which will lock up pretty quickly anwyay). The wrist pin does tend to make more noise on the decell side of the rev. You have to take off the head and oil pan which will let you remove the rod/piston and change it out (or we can bush the rod and you can re-install it easily enough).

Sean

 

[bikerchris]

And the motor has to come out to do that

 

[davesax36]

And the motor has to come out to do that

nope. And pulling the motor is not a terrible as it sounds. There's a thread with the order of operations.

 

[PATMAX]

Motor easier coming out than going in.
Exception is a full restoration where you put a bare frame onto a motor that's laying flat on its side. Less cumbersome that way!

 

[Fire-medic]

It takes me several hours but I can do both in & out on my own. Take your time, have a good floor jack, use cribbing if you need to stabilize things, and maybe a tiedown to keep the load from shifting. The first re-install I did, I had a long process to get the driveshaft back in. I gave up & walked-away, and when I came-back, first try it aligned and went-in. Take your time and an extra pair of hands helps at some points, like aligning mounting points and tapping the bolts into place. Use baggies to sort your parts, masking tape on the baggies to remind you of the location & any special instructions.

Pat's advice on a bare frame is a good tip. You can use some sliced-up inner tubes & some masking tape to protect your frame paint, another one.

 

[Redbone]

As Patmax stated, it is easier to move the frame around the engine for installation. Remove as much weight from the frame (wheels, seat, faux tank, extra fuel in the tank) which will help with maneuvering. I used the centerstand to support the back of the frame and a ratchet strap (height adjustments) to the ceiling (or engine lift) as a swing for the front part of the frame. Be sure to carefully block up engine on a stable support surface (floor jack) and maneuver the frame into place around the engine. No real heavy lifting required as your just guiding the frame into position. Once engine is secured into the frame slide your jack stands into position to support the front portion of the frame and remove the floor jack.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I removed and installed the engine by myself with no help and it was really not that big a deal. Remove the swing arm and it's a piece of cake. Took about half an hour after everything was rigged up and ready.

 

[one2dmax]

Exactly. Remove the arm and middle gear then it slides right out the side without effort.

I have the 20 steps around here somewhere that I made up about this.

 

[davesax36]

Here they are...

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=27555

 

[bikerchris]

Thanks everyone I found a good guy here in Ontario Canada that used to roadrace these and he has a set of rods with bronze bushes small end that he is selling me and he seems very knowledgeable