th3_mo3bius
Member
Hello all, long time no post.
For my Gen 1, I tried fixing the hot start/charging problems...result warm starts now possible (have yet to get to the starter) but went riding yesterday and found out that my brake light is permanently on. Wiring work of late was 2 things (third side note is: also hard-wired the AC/Gen to [5-lead R/R] and the R/R to positive and negative battery leads directly - hence warm starts now possible plus bright headlight): 1) main switch went bad. Not the switch or connection plate underneath but the key cylinder itself was bad so no reconditioning to be done. I I wired the blue and brown (lights and fan?) to one side and the red (power) to other and now I have a "kill" switch as it were. 2) I cut out the crimp by wiring the R/R positive lead directly to the battery with a more solid 30A fuse in between, however, after getting the overhauled engine back from my nice mechanic I noticed he put the the old fuse & wiring back in (i think it was positive RR lead to the battery and then battery to harness lead with old fuse box). I soon re-wired (I assumed the brake light was working before), and now that I think about it I can't understand how this would effect my brake light:bang head:
So I pulled the front brake switch and man-handled one end of the rear switch out of place (how the *f do you dismember that b*) but still permanent brake light status. Here is my current wiring (RR to battery with fuse, battery to ignition and harness), I don't understand how I made the brake light stay on with such an upstream wiring change. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. I'm going cross-country next week [planned stops are OK], she runs fine (the new rider said she's "punchy" :biglaugh but as I will lead him, the brake light signal would help them immensely (the faster they follow, the faster I can go!unk.
For my Gen 1, I tried fixing the hot start/charging problems...result warm starts now possible (have yet to get to the starter) but went riding yesterday and found out that my brake light is permanently on. Wiring work of late was 2 things (third side note is: also hard-wired the AC/Gen to [5-lead R/R] and the R/R to positive and negative battery leads directly - hence warm starts now possible plus bright headlight): 1) main switch went bad. Not the switch or connection plate underneath but the key cylinder itself was bad so no reconditioning to be done. I I wired the blue and brown (lights and fan?) to one side and the red (power) to other and now I have a "kill" switch as it were. 2) I cut out the crimp by wiring the R/R positive lead directly to the battery with a more solid 30A fuse in between, however, after getting the overhauled engine back from my nice mechanic I noticed he put the the old fuse & wiring back in (i think it was positive RR lead to the battery and then battery to harness lead with old fuse box). I soon re-wired (I assumed the brake light was working before), and now that I think about it I can't understand how this would effect my brake light:bang head:
So I pulled the front brake switch and man-handled one end of the rear switch out of place (how the *f do you dismember that b*) but still permanent brake light status. Here is my current wiring (RR to battery with fuse, battery to ignition and harness), I don't understand how I made the brake light stay on with such an upstream wiring change. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. I'm going cross-country next week [planned stops are OK], she runs fine (the new rider said she's "punchy" :biglaugh but as I will lead him, the brake light signal would help them immensely (the faster they follow, the faster I can go!unk.