Removing DJ Stage 7 Air Correctors?

[85vmax]

OK all you VMax Gurus's......any ideas on how to remove the air correctors with out taking the carbs off and drilling them out?
I put them in to run the pods.....got over that real quick with some surging at high rpm.

Want to go back and start from scratch.

Right now I have surging/breakup between 5500-6500 rpm just when boost is opening at slow trottle opening, I have to open the trotle to get by that spot.

DJ Stage 1 needles and springs.....K&N trimmed, and the airbox trimmed to the filter....no Y.
Tried everything and guessing its the corrector, 'cause that was the same result, but at higher rpm.

How do I get them out?

Chris

 

[gamorg02]

OK all you VMax Gurus's......any ideas on how to remove the air correctors with out taking the carbs off and drilling them out?
I put them in to run the pods.....got over that real quick with some surging at high rpm.

Want to go back and start from scratch.

Right now I have surging/breakup between 5500-6500 rpm just when boost is opening at slow trottle opening, I have to open the trotle to get by that spot.

DJ Stage 1 needles and springs.....K&N trimmed, and the airbox trimmed to the filter....no Y.
Tried everything and guessing its the corrector, 'cause that was the same result, but at higher rpm.

How do I get them out?

Chris

i think mike took his out...

wouldn't it be easier to just grab the rest of a morley kit?

 

[maleko89]

Use nail polish remover and then a sheet metal screw to remove.

 

[tugla]

+1 going to a morley kit. the stg 1 is not worth it. but sean told me you can take them out easy, think small screw and pull out.

 

[one2dmax]

Haven't tried the small screw yet but see no reason why they won't come out that way. I use a small easy out with the end sanded down so it fits snugly in the corrector. using a cordless drill in reverse I spin it in there, it grabs, and starts spinning it at which point I keep it going and pull out at the same time. 9 out of ten times the corrector can even be reused.

Sean

 

[[email protected]]

Yeah I got mine out but its not easy. I tried a couple different things but the only way i could get them out was by threading a screw into the corrector and yanking it out. You need to be VERY careful that you do not thread the screw in too far. There is a brass orifice directly below the correctors that meter the air flow and if whatever tool you use for extracting the correctors goes in too deep you will damage this orifice. I'm not sure what this would do to the carbs but I would imagine it would not be a good thing. My best guess is that if you did damage that orifice you would be stuck with buying new correctors and reinstalling them and then change the air filter setup. Just guessing on that.

I got lucky and mine came out without damaging anything. A couple notes I would add:

1. I did not use the glue that comes with the air correctors. If you did I would think they will be much harder to remove
2. If you choose to try and remove them with a screw i would cut the tip of the screw of so it is blunt. This should help keep it from going all the way through the corrector and damaging the orifice underneath.

I am not recommending that anyone try my method. Too much room for error. There is probably a better way. Maybe one of the fancy little screw extractor kits they sell or something would work. I'm not sure. All I know is that I got lucky.

Sean Morley has a lot more experience with getting them out than me I'm sure

EDIT: I see that Sean has already chimed in with a better method.

 

[85vmax]

Thanks for all the imput guys, I'll have to think about which technique to try.

Another question...would it be the correctors? I assumed the correctors only affected the bike from idle to 3K rpm....cause you only use them to run big air kits.
My box is opened up quite a bit, and without the correctors ran a bit lean.

Sean.....does your kit require any drilling?

And since it only happens at a certain rpm it wouldn't be ignition....right?
It just got amplified with the cold air we've been having.

 

[satariel666]

I have bore them out more then once, its very easy job cuz the correctors have a center pilot bevel so the drill cant go sideways. Just be sure to grab a drill that is enough smaller then the hole.

 

[4gasem]

Just to make sure here... You DO have your float bowl vents hooked up still right?

You say surging and it made me think of it. Many remove them and it's a NO NO.

 

[one2dmax]

It could be any number of things but most problems are carb related (followed by CDI's on the early bikes).

You can drill the slides just like the stage seven or stage one or you can leave it alone (just like you can with those other kits).

Sean

 

[85vmax]

OK, I finally got the correctors out (nail polish remover, 2 turns of a screw, and yanked it out...they can be used again).:clapping:
For the past couple days been doing a lot of trouble shooting, I am definately running lean....duct taped the pods, ran better, but still had the stumble etc, etc.
Finally today I put everything on the carbs back to stock, except the needles are shimmed, and useing the DJ short springs.
Pulls very strong first 3 gears untill I hit 5K then I start gurgling....if I back off it takes off again...if I can get it past 7K it pulls real strong....i'm lost.
Slightly modified box with K&N Y on or off, no difference, stock PJ2 or smaller DJ PJ2 only changed the RPM slightly where the gurgling starts, no difference also with the factory springs.

Only difference now is when cruising the choke on does not help.
Idles a little rough.....I also did a quick blow out of the carbs (been in them 5 times in 2 days) and I also broke one of the plastic screws that holds the needle down.(extras anyone?)
Only thing not OEM now is the Kerker Full exhaust with the comp baffle with the 1 1/2 inch cap, and a Dyna 3000 ignition set at stage 3.

HELP..........I have a trip to the Keys sunday.

 

[tugla]

have you started back at the begining, new plugs, sync carbs, all sparkplug wires are in good shape etc.....boots on the carbs tight and not cracked?

 

[[email protected]]

Have you tried putting a shim on the needles?

 

[CaptainKyle]

OK, I finally got the correctors out (nail polish remover, 2 turns of a screw, and yanked it out...they can be used again).:clapping:
For the past couple days been doing a lot of trouble shooting, I am definately running lean....duct taped the pods, ran better, but still had the stumble etc, etc.
Finally today I put everything on the carbs back to stock, except the needles are shimmed, and useing the DJ short springs.
Pulls very strong first 3 gears untill I hit 5K then I start gurgling....if I back off it takes off again...if I can get it past 7K it pulls real strong....i'm lost.
Slightly modified box with K&N Y on or off, no difference, stock PJ2 or smaller DJ PJ2 only changed the RPM slightly where the gurgling starts, no difference also with the factory springs.

Only difference now is when cruising the choke on does not help.
Idles a little rough.....I also did a quick blow out of the carbs (been in them 5 times in 2 days) and I also broke one of the plastic screws that holds the needle down.(extras anyone?)
Only thing not OEM now is the Kerker Full exhaust with the comp baffle with the 1 1/2 inch cap, and a Dyna 3000 ignition set at stage 3.

HELP..........I have a trip to the Keys sunday.

PM me your address & I will send you one of the little plastic screws.

 

[tugla]

i have a slight similar issue but up around 7-7200, if i dirve thru that area slow it gets a hickup but if i power thru it its ok. got better when i shimmed the needle a little, seems to be a tap lean but not on the plugs. if you brought it back to stock settings well should be ok.

 

[gamorg02]

i have a slight similar issue but up around 7-7200, if i dirve thru that area slow it gets a hickup but if i power thru it its ok. got better when i shimmed the needle a little, seems to be a tap lean but not on the plugs. if you brought it back to stock settings well should be ok.

def needle then b/c depending on throttle position is how far the needle is out. at WOT its open around 5-6k but otherwise can be varried.

 

[85vmax]

have you started back at the begining, new plugs, sync carbs, all sparkplug wires are in good shape etc.....boots on the carbs tight and not cracked?

New plugs and wires good..did not sync...boots on carbs are old and hard, looking for a set....but thats why I went to pods.
But that should'nt have that effect at high rpm.

 

[85vmax]

Have you tried putting a shim on the needles?

Yes I left the needles shimmed.

 

[85vmax]

i have a slight similar issue but up around 7-7200, if i dirve thru that area slow it gets a hickup but if i power thru it its ok. got better when i shimmed the needle a little, seems to be a tap lean but not on the plugs. if you brought it back to stock settings well should be ok.

I worked the DJ needles up and down before I threw the stock ones back in. position just channged the RPM where the hiccup appeared.

 

[85vmax]

PM me your address & I will send you one of the little plastic screws.

PM sent...............thanks Captain.