Sean Morley,
dammymax, CaptainKyle, and I will all-suggest that you remove the gas tank, (a good thread for that is on-here) and clean it again, stripping your previous owner's lining attempt.
What I've done to clean a gas tank, is to
remove the fuel level sending unit, and install a blank-off plate in its place. Before I install the blank-off plate, I use a pressure washer (I have one that can attain 4,000 psi) to remove as-much as I can reach with my wand. Then I use a couple days of 6% vinegar to soak the tank, which has done the job for me. If you use something more-caustic, be sure to wear rubber gloves, eye protection, and a respirator is a good idea. You need to completely-remove the lining. You want the inside of the tank to be shiny-bright. If you get to that point, you probably don't need to re-line it. You can just put it back in-service. If you're not going to re-install it and fill it, immediately, then you need to protect your virgin metal interior from flash rust, it will rust before the inside completley dries. I usually use some cheap ATF, a quart into the tank, and then seal-off the tank, and rotate the tank in all-directions to entirely-coat all interior surfaces. You can leave the ATF in-there until you are ready to fill it with gasoline. Removing your blank-off plate and allowing movement of the tank to ensure all ATF is drained, then re-installing the fuel sender unit, and checking for a good sender sealing (no leaks) and you can re-install the tank. Fill it with gas, and make sure that you change the gas filter, and you should be good to-go. The tiny amount of ATF still on the tank interior isn't going to cause any issues with a full tank of gas.
Assuming you have a bike that will start and run, I often find that a bike which won't idle probably is extremley out of synch, or it has a vacuum leak or leaks. Of course, it could be both. Then gain, if you're clogging gas filters with poorly-applied tank liner material, you probably have clogged pilot jets
(part #42). In my experience, removing the carbs, splitting them into two pairs, and removing the float bowls and jet blocks
(part #32), to access the pilot jets is the best way to clean them. You also remove and clean the
main bleed pipe (part #44). Blowing-out the carburetor passages is mandatory, as you have them opened and torn-down.
You should have on-hand the jet block gasket
(part #35) before opening things, because they often tear-apart in removing the jet block upon disassembly.
Part #35
Gasket (jet block)
3JB-14199-00-00
$9.41
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500456a5f8700209bc79313a/carburetor