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If you have a multimeter, the easiest way is to open one of your new blinkers, take the bulb out, then test which wire is the earth/common, and which goes to each filament in the bulb. That way you can't go wrong!

That's a really nice one John! All sorted :)

As long as you get the right custom adapters to position the brake calipers appropriately there shouldn't be any problem. Only thing is, has anyone done this kind of adapter yet?

Well, right now, I have 2 x Vmax, 2 x ZL1000 and 1 x V65. I love my vmax. I've ridden both ZL1000s and yes they are nice bikes and pretty quick, obviously not like a vmax but still pretty fast! Straight 4 is always gonna have some revs.. Haven't got round to ride the V65 yet, it needs a...

:biglaugh:

The carbs rack has to be off the bike to get to the jets AFAIK, but then you should be able to open the caps at the bottom of the fuel bowls, break the jets loose with the correct size screwdriver, then as Sean said use a toothpick to unscrew fully and remove.

It HAS to be clockwise, or the wheel would run backwards..

I run a pair of FIamm car horn wired straight to the battery via a relay - horn wire energizes the relay. It's efffin' loud - like a car only better as they're out, not inside a motor compartment :) Total cost of mod = $35

I would check the tire first! That's the most likely culprit. Badly cupped/worn front tires will do just that. And then adjust the steering bearing according to the bounce test. Should be sorted then.

Re: Award Request for DMAN999! I want some of those caregivers! Where do I sign up?

nothing a couple of viagras can't fix LOL

All the sync does is make sure the butterfly valves in each carb open and close exactly together. So, you should be able to set them pretty close on the bench just by looking down the carbs and making sure they're close. That should help you see if there's a way to get them close without the...

AFAIK there is NO difference in the M/C or levers for all countries on the VMAX - nor would there need to be any!?

I remember seeing that in the Yam Service Manual for the early years too, but IRL I always found 152.5 to be fitted on all four..

100% - anarchist. Shoot them all I say, or chop their heads off (advantage of being French ha!)

The Dunlop Qualifier is about as grippy as a piece of soap - get rid of it if you can. Also when worn they get a lot worse. The grippiest OEM size front (also cheapest) is the Shinko T230 Tourmaster - many here use it. A better quality (and pricier) tire is the Metzeler ME880, but it's harder...

When my '00 started going, it would 'jump' while under load in 2nd gear, as in it felt like it would get out of gear but only for a split second. Then as it got worse it started jumping out of second into neutral - always under load. Now it's completely gone I can still short shift through...

Some sizes aren't the same, there's a chart somewhere that shows the size relationship between Mikuni and the ones used in Stage 7 etc

It's very easy to wire the front the wrong way, because of the running lights. The wires running to these have 12V on them as soon as the ignition is on. So if, instead of using the blinkers wires or the earth wires, you connect the running lights wires by mistake to 2-wire blinkers, it can...

Heaps!