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I know Steve (aka sdt354) had some bad luck with his last few Apex batteries But I bought the APX12220, 420 CCA - 22 Ah, Sealed AGM battery as a replacement for my UB12180 (which lasted 9 years) about 2 years ago and it works great for me so far...

Good call, that does sound like a likely cause.

Agreed, mine were all different from the factory, from 1-3/4 to 2-1/4. I left them alone when I had the stock pipes on and turned them each out 1/4 turn after putting on my Supertrapps. I Dyno'ed it twice with the stock pipes on and once with the Supertrapps and the RWHP was ~119 all three times.

Nice, you should get with Sean for some tips and moral support the next time you hit the track.

Good find, I think that's exactly what he's talking about.

It sounds like your rear coils are going bad, it's fairly common for them to fire when cold but not when hot. I'd talk to blaxmax about getting a set of COPs to replace the OEM coils. http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=441822#post441822 I replaced my OEM coils about 5 years ago with COPs when...

Matt Donnelly is about 6'5" or 6'6" and he bought a Maxgasser seat and added forward controls his Vmax and he said they both made a Huge difference for him.

I did exactly what you did on my 2000, I connected the positive lead from the R/R to the Positive terminal of the battery with a 30 Amp inline fuse and 14 gauge wire. I did Not bother with the negative side or the ground wires because my numbers went up to 13.2-13.4 or so at idle and about...

Yep a can of gas feeding the pump will quickly let you know if it's doing it's job or not.

I did it myself back in 2002 or so. I used info from this site: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14719 And here's a good guide too: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14719 Here's what the OEM shaped seat looks like vs. my reshaped seat:

Glad you got it worked out. Here's a good guide for anyone else that reads this thread going forward: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14679

That doesn't look too bad except maybe a tad rich on the A/F screws. this is what mine looked like last time I checked:

***SOLD**** From Facebook posted by Jonathon K Ellis. You have to drop the rear fender to install it which takes about 20 minutes, using the stock bolts, then you can remove it in a few minutes from the mounting bracket and reinstall when needed and it looks stock still. Very nice set up.

For me: 1. Seat - I could only ride 50 miles or so on the stock seat before my legs and A$$ went numb, now I can ride for hours without issue. 2. Shinko TM 230 rear tire and Bridgestone Battlax BT-45V tire combo - that's the best combo I have ver used and I can easily stay with or even in...

I just saw this on the local news, it was in a Sewer pipe near a Walmart. ;)

^ That's a shame. I put an APX12220 in my Vmax about a year ago and it is always at 12.9-13 or so volts and cranks my bike great. I only put it on my trickle charger every few months just because even though it doesn't actually need it. Apparently you and Steve got a bad one.

Welcome !!!

Welcome Back !!!!!!!!

Ask Dannymax and Sean Morley (one2dmax) either of them should have everything you need.

It's hard to tell from your pictures, is the pressure paate tight against the first friction plate when the clutch lever is out ? If not you need to take the pressure plate off and rotate it until it goes back on tight against the first friction plate. I believe the service manual says rotating...